problem with new distributor
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 153
From: Illinois
option C) Check the damper wheel (the thing bolted to the crank shaft) for timing marks. try taking light sandpaper like wet/dry 800 grit and using wet to gently remove any grime or rust that maybe covering the timing marks on the outside edge (or even perhaps the face) of the damper wheel.
They should be there check carefully paint can be used to highlight the numbers after you find them....
Note: timing marks are not found on the belt in this application.
-Gun
They should be there check carefully paint can be used to highlight the numbers after you find them....
Note: timing marks are not found on the belt in this application.
-Gun
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
yep. if you don't have any marks next to TDC for 10 degrees advance etc you can make your own if the shops are closed. take one of those flexible tape measurers (the ones a tailor would have). when you have the diameter of the balancer just multiply by PI and that will give you the circumference. Divide this by 36 (as there's 360 degrees in a circle) and you have the distance for 10 degrees
example: 7" balancer. circumference is 7" x 3.1415926=22". divide by 36=0.61" for every ten degrees away.
you're more accurate in making one at 0.61" (for 10) and one at 1.22" (for 20) instead of measuring 0.61 and then another 0.61 ...
example: 7" balancer. circumference is 7" x 3.1415926=22". divide by 36=0.61" for every ten degrees away.
you're more accurate in making one at 0.61" (for 10) and one at 1.22" (for 20) instead of measuring 0.61 and then another 0.61 ...
Thread Starter
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 153
From: Illinois
so i tried to get it to tdc that way, and then set the slot in the distributor just past the #1 cylinder mark on the cap. but when i tried to then start it it wouldn't even turn over at all.
the closest i had gotten it was when i put a screw driver in the spark plug hole and cranked it by hand until it hit the highest point, and then turned it back the other way and took the middle of those two. that was when it would start just about on its own but die as soon as i let off the throttle.
the closest i had gotten it was when i put a screw driver in the spark plug hole and cranked it by hand until it hit the highest point, and then turned it back the other way and took the middle of those two. that was when it would start just about on its own but die as soon as i let off the throttle.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,212
From: Hills of California
here is a new issue that I think you have possibly encountered...
there are indeed 2 (two) TDCs. TDC compression stroke and TDC exhaust stroke. If are attempting to set TDC at exhaust stroke it wont be good.
Here is a really cool link http://www.animatedengines.com/otto.shtml
you can see the piston reaches the very top (TDC) but the exhaust valve is open. We need to set the piston so it reaches TDC when both valves are closed (compression stroke)
You will have to pull plug 1 and place a finger over the port as the engine is rotated by hand using a large wrench on the crank shaft bolt (a friend should help here and the ignition off) during compression stroke you should feel more air being vented from the plug hole than during exhaust.
A second method to verify TDC compression is remove the valve cover and watch the valves operate while feeling for escaping air from the plug hole. As you feel air escaping both valves should be stationary on cly 1 once you feel air stop escaping the intake valve should being to open at this point back the engine up until no pressure is on the valve that was moving.
NOW check the positon of the rotor under the dizzy cap. It MUST be directly under plug 1 wire. If it is a noticable amount behind or ahead of plug 1 wire then the dizzy must be rotated to get it direclty under plug 1 wire. IF the dizzy must be rotated more that 2 or 3 degrees you may have to pull the dizzy up out of the engine block and rotate the rotor the amout needed to get it under plug 1 wire and slide it back down while watching the rotor as the gears mesh. It can be quite difficut to get them to line up as you need. Rotating the engine a very small amout one way or the other can help get the gears to mesh in the right location.
there are indeed 2 (two) TDCs. TDC compression stroke and TDC exhaust stroke. If are attempting to set TDC at exhaust stroke it wont be good.
Here is a really cool link http://www.animatedengines.com/otto.shtml
you can see the piston reaches the very top (TDC) but the exhaust valve is open. We need to set the piston so it reaches TDC when both valves are closed (compression stroke)
You will have to pull plug 1 and place a finger over the port as the engine is rotated by hand using a large wrench on the crank shaft bolt (a friend should help here and the ignition off) during compression stroke you should feel more air being vented from the plug hole than during exhaust.
A second method to verify TDC compression is remove the valve cover and watch the valves operate while feeling for escaping air from the plug hole. As you feel air escaping both valves should be stationary on cly 1 once you feel air stop escaping the intake valve should being to open at this point back the engine up until no pressure is on the valve that was moving.
NOW check the positon of the rotor under the dizzy cap. It MUST be directly under plug 1 wire. If it is a noticable amount behind or ahead of plug 1 wire then the dizzy must be rotated to get it direclty under plug 1 wire. IF the dizzy must be rotated more that 2 or 3 degrees you may have to pull the dizzy up out of the engine block and rotate the rotor the amout needed to get it under plug 1 wire and slide it back down while watching the rotor as the gears mesh. It can be quite difficut to get them to line up as you need. Rotating the engine a very small amout one way or the other can help get the gears to mesh in the right location.
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