Check the cam-shield.com website too. Reportitly they have a better
way to meter how much ZDDP you're putting in (it's also bad to have too much).
They also have a nice FAQs page that explains alot.
Note that they are down on racing oils because of the lack of detergents, this is true
for many race oils. But Valvoline Vr-1 and Roush Oil both have detergents so they are ok.
BTW, I ordered a case of VR-1 10W30 at 5.19/quart from Napa, they're really socking it to ya if they quoted you "$6 more than Mobil1"

 

Yeah. I sell the stuff (I work at Napa) as well as buy it, and it goes for ~$5/qt. I actually talked my boss into stocking all of the Valvoline VR-1 and Valvoline NSL Race oils. Since then, we've had a lot of demand for the stuff.

There is also a new Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic (as opposed to the Not Street Legal race synthetic), which I was unaware of until Monday. A customer came in looking for it because it's on Valvoline's website, but I couldn't find anybody that sells it yet. I believe it's a brand new product and hasn't been distributed yet. It also has a really weird part number, which supports that theory.

 

Sweet, I could only find VR-1 for $9 or so online, but just checked napa and its $4.49 a quart, so I ordered 5 of them and canceled my order of the ZDDPlus.

Thanks

 

I bet the new Roush synthetic oil is the same stuff because it says made by
Valvoline on the bottle. Our local speed shop "Goodies" sells the Roush brand. Looks like good stuff. Beware that only certain weights have enough ZDDP.
10W-40 is one of the good ones. See their chart on the roushoil.com site.
Also it has what dealers carry it.

 

Also, my machinist says to change the oil soon after I reinstall everything because it will break loose a lot of crap. How soon does that mean in terms of time or miles?

If its very soon, then I think I will use the low-zinc Mobil 1 since it was cheap and I have it still.

I'm about to leave and have to make my decision

 

Not following what "reinstall everything" means, is this a rebuild?
That is what i'd do, run it for a little while with the cheep stuff
to flush it out. Then run the good stuff.

 

Yes a top end rebuild

I'll run it for approximately 100 miles then flush and fill it with the VR-1.

 

when i changed my cam i ran it for 30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpms at idle sitting in the driveway, then drained everything and put new oil in. you wont get enough oil to the cam at 800-1000rpm idling speed