Those are Cragar SS wheels though. The styled steel Mustang wheels for 65 66 67 should have caps like in your link.

I have Magnum 500s that have the 3 or 4 tabs on the back of the center caps.

I would just email or call MU and ask them if those caps will work. I'm not sure what they screw to, but they should work.

 

Hey carlos beautiful rims. What do you use to keep them clean?

I went polished instead of chrome and pay for it all the time. Chrome looks clean!

 

I go the $2 spry-it-yourself carwash. After a spritz with wheel cleaner and the wash, I just use windex to finish. It only rains 20 days a year here (Feb and some of March), so rust doesn't happen in LA. Some people oil their rims, but that makes polished chrome look dirty. The only way to keep chrome wheels looking good is to bend down and wipe them dry after every rainstorm or after you drive through puddles.

If you have to clean/dry wheels a lot, 3 bar spinners get in the way. Make the job easy in the first place by picking rims that don't have spinners or sharp corners or too many nooks and crannies. The easiest wheel to clean is the bullet style wheel like 4reboy has: black spokes with chrome rims. Or spokes painted argent or grey like AR torque thrusts.

CP

 

I love chrome. I have chrome Mag 500's on mine. As far as pollished aluminum goes my 95 F150 has that but they are the factory clear coated wheels so they are easy to clean too.

To keep my magnums looking good I just wash them with good quality car soap and a wash sponge. I have 2 of the terry like coverd sponges for washings cars. I use one for the body and paint. The other is for wheels and lower bumpers etc that are more dirty.

I had one set of bare polished aluminum wheels and that was the last set I will ever have.

 

I think your wheels look great too. They suit your car perfectly.

 

Fixed the loose center caps. Several of the little notches in the center cap which hold the snap ring had broken. I knew I couldn't glue it or weld it or anything, but it occurred to me that I could encase the whole thing in epoxy. I sandblasted the snap ring and the inside of the center cap to ensure it was clean and had a good etched surface for the epoxy to stick to. On the first one, I discovered that the foam pad tended to stick to the paint on the back of the plastic emblem and some paint could peel off if the pad is removed, so on the next three, I didn't try to remove the pad. Here is the stuff I used, about $12 at Hobby Lobby and you can basically get the idea how it was done from the picture. Basically filled the cap with epoxy enough to cover the base of the snap ring. Click on the thumbnail.



After snapping the finished center cap into the wheel, I found that it was still a little loose as the tabs seem just a hair deeper than the thickness of the wheel. So using what I had on hand, some solid copper wire, I wound it around and between the tabs on the inside to take up the slack. Stainless wire would be better but didn't have any on hand and this should last for years.



Always trying to save a buck and salvage what I got. Now the center caps are attached very tight and far more secure than the original design.

Phil