alignment specs (camber, caster, toe-in) for 68 fastback
Hi all,
would anyone have alignment specs/recommendation for 68 fastback (stock 302)?
is the stock spec still valid for good driving on modern tyres
the car is stock all around, but with springs in the front cut to lower the car by about one inch. it just about doesn't rub
Thanks for any response. stock alignment seems to be:
camber: 1/4-degree to 1-1/4-degrees
caster: 0 with max 1/2 degree side to side
toe in: 3/32-inch toe-in and a maximum of 1-1/32-inch toe-in
friend of mine just got a new set of tyres and I demanded he gets it aligned (since I saw his old tyres ... )
would anyone have alignment specs/recommendation for 68 fastback (stock 302)?
is the stock spec still valid for good driving on modern tyres
the car is stock all around, but with springs in the front cut to lower the car by about one inch. it just about doesn't rub
Thanks for any response. stock alignment seems to be:
camber: 1/4-degree to 1-1/4-degrees
caster: 0 with max 1/2 degree side to side
toe in: 3/32-inch toe-in and a maximum of 1-1/32-inch toe-in
friend of mine just got a new set of tyres and I demanded he gets it aligned (since I saw his old tyres ... )
Day has a great write up on alignments, suspension and steering here:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
The recommended specs with modern tires and performance handling are below.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
The recommended specs with modern tires and performance handling are below.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
Those specs will work quite nicely whether you've done the Shelby drop or not.
They aren't too far from what I used to run in this car back before I autocrossed it (I usually ran a little more negative camber, -0.6° to -0.7°, and a little less toe-in, about 1/32").
After I started autocrossing it, I ran a lot more negative camber (something like -1.25° for the street, with a swap to more than -2.5° at the events). -1.25 is a bit extreme unless you always carry a lot of speed through the corners.

Norm
They aren't too far from what I used to run in this car back before I autocrossed it (I usually ran a little more negative camber, -0.6° to -0.7°, and a little less toe-in, about 1/32").
After I started autocrossing it, I ran a lot more negative camber (something like -1.25° for the street, with a swap to more than -2.5° at the events). -1.25 is a bit extreme unless you always carry a lot of speed through the corners.

Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Jul 20, 2009 at 09:31 AM.
If it's a stock setup I'd keep that camber at at least -.5, possibly as much as -1 if you drive a bit more aggressively, to account for Ford's whacked out suspension geometry. And with a Shelby drop -.5 works nicely. 2-3 Caster is good for straight line stability and good wheel return to center, and a bit of toe in helps with straight line tracking. Giving the car a tad toe out will require constant steering input to track the car straight(it'll have a sensation almost like the car wants to wander, but it can be offset to an extent with caster), and the slight toe out will give the car a quicker steering response when you enter a corner. It depends on how you drive, but regardless do NOT use positive camber.
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