New project du-jour
Here's my next project. I'm swapping in a T-5z in place of the old 2.77. Thought I was going to save a little weight until I saw how tiny the old 3 speed is. Man that thing looks like it belongs in a Barbie car!!!
I bought the "Z" version because of all the horse power that straight six puts out. I mean when you've got 120 angry hamsters under the hood...well...you just can't unleash that kind of devistating power with just any old tranny.
Thought the bell housing would look good au-natural, so I had them throw it in the hot dip tank, then sanded off the rest of the blue paint.
With luck I'll have it all done by the weekend along with the center console.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/466DAEDCD8444E98BAC2F40C32F680B4.jpg[/IMG]
I bought the "Z" version because of all the horse power that straight six puts out. I mean when you've got 120 angry hamsters under the hood...well...you just can't unleash that kind of devistating power with just any old tranny.

Thought the bell housing would look good au-natural, so I had them throw it in the hot dip tank, then sanded off the rest of the blue paint.
With luck I'll have it all done by the weekend along with the center console.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/466DAEDCD8444E98BAC2F40C32F680B4.jpg[/IMG]
Now hopefully it stays in. Evidently they don't make my clutch cover any more so I ended up dissassembling mine and taking it to a buddies house where he has a nice lathe setup. Only needed to take off 0.001" for a fine cleanup. No heat checking, etc. Man, I just hate doing that. Everything else is new, so we will see how it goes.
Here's a shot of the interior with console, leather boot, and best of all Hurst shifter (for that old school look). Now I just have to get the driveshaft lengthened, and find a pigtail for the reverse light switch, and I'll be cruising down the road in a fully syncro-meshed, and air conditioned nirvana. [8D]
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/27C0583AB0E74AA2B780A1526E2C05CE.jpg[/IMG]
Here's a shot of the interior with console, leather boot, and best of all Hurst shifter (for that old school look). Now I just have to get the driveshaft lengthened, and find a pigtail for the reverse light switch, and I'll be cruising down the road in a fully syncro-meshed, and air conditioned nirvana. [8D]
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/27C0583AB0E74AA2B780A1526E2C05CE.jpg[/IMG]
The drive shaft shop had to order in the tube as it is much smaller than what is on today's vehicles. My vehicle needs the tube lengthened 3/8". Ford Racing makes a universal joint that will allow you to install the new yoke on the old shaft, but then you are at the mercy of a Ford parts department for future repairs. Having the drive shaft shop cut and weld a new end on means I can use a stock U-Joint available at any parts house.
Using the stock shifter with a Hurst shift arm for an 83-88 vintage Mustang. Shifter ball is about 2" forward of where it would be perfect. I may change that later, after I put the "Saddle Console" on top and check for clearance. It's good as is, no stretching to catch any of the shifts, but my hand doesn't naturally fall on the ball.
I am very impressed how well everything fits when installed. The transmission bracket from Modern Driveline couldn't be improved (imo). The fit is perfect, and it's so tight there will be plenty of room for the dual exhaust (when I stick the V-8 in). It is also very solid.
The adapter plate (mfg'd by California Pony Cars) needed some work to fit correctly. The 4 bolts for the transmission input shaft flange hit the adapter, I put a little grease on each head to mark the spots and then used a die grinder to clearance the adapter plate. Took all of about 10 minutes. Other than that it fits well.
I was able to use the stock speedo cable, but will change to the longer unit when I strip the car. There is no room for flex. Eventually I think the cable will kink at the transmission. Seeing as I don't want the nuetral safety switch, I removed the connector (broke off the internal tabs) this basically ruins the switch so think carefully if you are going to do this. Once removed I was able to make a new connector using the rubber plug portion, which fits perfectly on the reverse light switch. I could not find a pigtail and it would have cost me more to get one from a wrecking yard. After soldering this to the original back up light wires then adding heat-shrink and the corrigated plastic wrap from the new switch, it looks "factory".
The console went in with little problems. I was able to reconfigure the console light mount (after hacking off half the top rear of the console for the A/C install. It's worth the effort. Everything looks and works just like it should. Here is a shot with the interior all back together. If I ever get the car on a real rack, I'll shoot the underside so you can see how easy this is. Looks really nice.
Guess I'll have to wait a few days to see if it actually works
Will add a final "drive test" post when it's all done.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/64BE2D1F492E4626B0889F9F08DFA3B6.jpg[/IMG]
Using the stock shifter with a Hurst shift arm for an 83-88 vintage Mustang. Shifter ball is about 2" forward of where it would be perfect. I may change that later, after I put the "Saddle Console" on top and check for clearance. It's good as is, no stretching to catch any of the shifts, but my hand doesn't naturally fall on the ball.
I am very impressed how well everything fits when installed. The transmission bracket from Modern Driveline couldn't be improved (imo). The fit is perfect, and it's so tight there will be plenty of room for the dual exhaust (when I stick the V-8 in). It is also very solid.
The adapter plate (mfg'd by California Pony Cars) needed some work to fit correctly. The 4 bolts for the transmission input shaft flange hit the adapter, I put a little grease on each head to mark the spots and then used a die grinder to clearance the adapter plate. Took all of about 10 minutes. Other than that it fits well.
I was able to use the stock speedo cable, but will change to the longer unit when I strip the car. There is no room for flex. Eventually I think the cable will kink at the transmission. Seeing as I don't want the nuetral safety switch, I removed the connector (broke off the internal tabs) this basically ruins the switch so think carefully if you are going to do this. Once removed I was able to make a new connector using the rubber plug portion, which fits perfectly on the reverse light switch. I could not find a pigtail and it would have cost me more to get one from a wrecking yard. After soldering this to the original back up light wires then adding heat-shrink and the corrigated plastic wrap from the new switch, it looks "factory".
The console went in with little problems. I was able to reconfigure the console light mount (after hacking off half the top rear of the console for the A/C install. It's worth the effort. Everything looks and works just like it should. Here is a shot with the interior all back together. If I ever get the car on a real rack, I'll shoot the underside so you can see how easy this is. Looks really nice.
Guess I'll have to wait a few days to see if it actually works

Will add a final "drive test" post when it's all done.
[IMG]local://upfiles/16598/64BE2D1F492E4626B0889F9F08DFA3B6.jpg[/IMG]
Thanks Glen,
I was amazed at how easy this is. All my hot rod modifying days were before they made "kits". We even had to fab our own headers to stick V-8's in little cars and trucks. So this is a really nice suprise. If this drives as well as I think it will, I will highly recomend this to anyone not trying to stay "concours correct".
I was amazed at how easy this is. All my hot rod modifying days were before they made "kits". We even had to fab our own headers to stick V-8's in little cars and trucks. So this is a really nice suprise. If this drives as well as I think it will, I will highly recomend this to anyone not trying to stay "concours correct".
Well it drives as good as it looks. Oh man am I a happy camper!!!!
As I rolled past the bank the temperature board read 101 degrees, but I was top down in air conditioned comfort. The T-5 really woke up the little six cylinder. You could *almost* call it peppy. Going from 2.77 to 2.95 gives a much smoother quicker launch. I'm proud to say that I can now beat the little old lady with her walker across the street. She even gave me a big thumbs up. But I expect tomorrow she'll show up with a lowered carbon fiber unit, that may pose more than I can handle. Oh well. [&:]
The speedometer is rock steady, although I'm still nervous with the stock cable being so tight. I am definitely moving the shifter back as well. I can make a block that will will work perfectly. Being a new transmission it is still very notchy. 2-3 upshift takes concentration. If the shifter was right where it should be I think that would make it easier. Very short throw, even with the long Hurst lever.
in 5th it will cruise steady even on a mild grade with the A/C blasting.
If I was to start over here are the things I would do differently.
1). order the speedo cable and install before the A/C.
2). Order the driveshaft from Modern Driveline. The shop I went to dicked me around for over a week, then charged me an absurd amount.
3). Use taller wheel ramps. The new plastic ones are not as tall as the old metal red ones. I had to put the transmission under the car then lift it up on the transmission jack.
Last thing to do is the exhaust. The engine drops at the rear about 1/4" which is just enough in a convertible to cause the pipe to hit the cross plate on deceleration. Think it's time to get a little more grunt anyways. Maybe a flowmaster so I can put Granny in her place. Yeah, let her show up with that carbon fiber Hot Wheels walker, I'll be ready...[8D]
As I rolled past the bank the temperature board read 101 degrees, but I was top down in air conditioned comfort. The T-5 really woke up the little six cylinder. You could *almost* call it peppy. Going from 2.77 to 2.95 gives a much smoother quicker launch. I'm proud to say that I can now beat the little old lady with her walker across the street. She even gave me a big thumbs up. But I expect tomorrow she'll show up with a lowered carbon fiber unit, that may pose more than I can handle. Oh well. [&:]
The speedometer is rock steady, although I'm still nervous with the stock cable being so tight. I am definitely moving the shifter back as well. I can make a block that will will work perfectly. Being a new transmission it is still very notchy. 2-3 upshift takes concentration. If the shifter was right where it should be I think that would make it easier. Very short throw, even with the long Hurst lever.
in 5th it will cruise steady even on a mild grade with the A/C blasting.
If I was to start over here are the things I would do differently.
1). order the speedo cable and install before the A/C.
2). Order the driveshaft from Modern Driveline. The shop I went to dicked me around for over a week, then charged me an absurd amount.
3). Use taller wheel ramps. The new plastic ones are not as tall as the old metal red ones. I had to put the transmission under the car then lift it up on the transmission jack.
Last thing to do is the exhaust. The engine drops at the rear about 1/4" which is just enough in a convertible to cause the pipe to hit the cross plate on deceleration. Think it's time to get a little more grunt anyways. Maybe a flowmaster so I can put Granny in her place. Yeah, let her show up with that carbon fiber Hot Wheels walker, I'll be ready...[8D]
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