So....have you gotten that thing broke free yet? The oil pump drive is a hex shaft, you should be able to get something that will go over it and into drill...my memory fails on that one. Maybe ask at parts store.

 

Nope have not been unstuck yet. I was looking at my engine bill to see if they did anything that should not have been done. Looks fine to me. I guess I will never know what is wrong . Stepman I sent you a message as well. I was wondering if it would be at all possible to just spray starter fluid and see if the power of the fire loosens things up? lol.

 

No, I wouldn't do that. I don't think it will accomplish anything. Have you been trying to turn it from the front of the crank? How long of a bar have you been using? I would be using a 6 point socket if possible, a long breaker bar, (about 16"?) then get something like a floor jack handle (about 4' long), and "bounce" it back and forth. It's going to take some serious effort apparently. I can't believe that it is that stuck just from sitting, unless it got water in it.

 

Better yet, sitting 8 months only.

 

I do not see how it could get water in it. It was sitting inside wrapped in plastic wrap with a plastic bag over top on a pallet, was not even touching the floor.

This is what I am doing. Car jacked up. Using the correct socket size and a long bar attempting to turn it in the front. Also I took a crowbar and using the end that looks like a hammer thing to pull nails I insert it in between some of the teeth of the flexplate/flywheel whatever you want to call it and pull as hard as I can. Nothing lol. One thought I had but I am sure with how much effort I put into moving this nut it would budge is that they seemed to have painted over the nut... Could that cause enough stickiness to not turn with all the force I am applying?

On my engine bill it says they used the original crank but it says grind, mag, and something else with a .010 or .10 after it. I can not really tell. Sloppy handwriting. Could that have anything to do with it?

This car is going to be the end of me lol

 

Allright, I seem to be missing something. This motor should have turned by now. Can you go back and tell me the story of this motor again? Up until the time it didn't crank.

Also, the origonal crank was used. It was ground, mag'ed (checked for cracks), and ground to a point that is .010 undersize, meaning that the mains and the rod journals have been ground .010 past origonal. This is not a problem as long as the correct .010 oversize bearings were used. If it turned smoothly before, I don't think this would be a problem. If they used the wrong bearings, it may lock up. But you would have seen that the first time you tried to turn it.

 

This is the first time I have tried to run it... Okay here is the story. About a year ago I took the motor to a machine shop in Harrisburg. Got a rebuild done. Picked up the motor. It was on a pallet with plastic wrap all around the engine then a big clear plastic bag was placed on top of it. Took the motor home and carried it into the garage. It sat in the garage until about 3months ago when I got to the point where I was ready to put the motor back in. I unwrapped it. Put it in the engine compartment. It sat there for a month and half while I was on vacation. Came home finished installing everything. Now about a few week ago I tried to start it and that is where this thread is now

I do not know for 100% that it ever turned. I can not remember that far back with a certainty. On the bill there is a check list for testing everything and nothing is checked though.... Maybe the machine shop did not check the engine before they gave it to me?? Do you think I should call the machine shop and bug them until they check out the motor for free? lol

Edit. And the machine shop is very reputable. They get a ton of business and are the best in the area.

 

But you had to bolt up the convertor, so, it had to turn. After you got it, what did you have to install? It wasn't 100% complete to where you just had to drop it in...right? Something has to be some place that it's not supposed to be. When did you put on the crank pulley (the part for the belt) before or after convertor. I have to use convertor for a ref, because you had to turn it to bolt that up. If I go that route...what have you bolted on after the convertor?

 

The engine came out of the shop with nothing on it except what had to be there ie valve covers etc. The distributor was in a bag that came with the engine.

I attached everything else. Spark plugs, crank pulley, carb, headers, alternator, distributor, power steering, water pump. I think that is everything. Could I have put the pulley thing on wrong??? Would that cause this? I dropped the transmission and engine in at the same time then proceeded to install everything else. I know I asked this before but could the header bolts be to long? I did not use the originals I bought ones at the hardware store and just guessed on length. Could they be hitting something and preventing it from moving??

 

If you're really concerned about the header thing, try taking a bolt out and use a mirror and flashlight to look into the hole or stick a small screwdriver and feel around in there. See 1) if there appears to be an end to the thread hole and 2) how far it goes in compared to your bolt.