Click when turning ignition switch on?
Yes I completely unhooked every belt accessory on my car ( power steering, alternator, fan/waterpump). Did not help in the least. I can not imagine what could be causing this issue. I am kind of upset that this happened when I spent all that money to have the engine restored. At least everytime I go to turn the key I can hear the starter engage the flywheel. +1 lol
If this ATF does not work by tomorrow should I use DW40??
If this ATF does not work by tomorrow should I use DW40??
Well....you have your work cut out for you. At this point, I'd say it probably wouldn't hurt. It will only work though, if the rings is the problem. We can somewhat narrow this down by process of elimination. You have already eliminated everything on the front.
Other things that I would try are....
1) Pull the valve covers and back off all of the valves. Look and see that they all close when they are backed off. (don't want any to be sticking open)
2) Is there a torque conv bolt showing in the inspection cover, I'd remove it.
3) Remove the dist. (Maybe try this one first)
4) Back off the bell housing bolts and try to seperate it a bit. Shouldn't take much. maybe 1/8th or 1/4 inch. (I don't think this is your problem though)
5) You're going to like this one...pull the oil pan and take a look. If there is nothing obvious, then I would loosen the mains. Just a couple turns is all that's needed, then tap them with a rubber hammer or something similar to break them loose. Hopefully, by this point, your motor will turn.
Try turning the motor after each of these steps.
Other things that I would try are....
1) Pull the valve covers and back off all of the valves. Look and see that they all close when they are backed off. (don't want any to be sticking open)
2) Is there a torque conv bolt showing in the inspection cover, I'd remove it.
3) Remove the dist. (Maybe try this one first)
4) Back off the bell housing bolts and try to seperate it a bit. Shouldn't take much. maybe 1/8th or 1/4 inch. (I don't think this is your problem though)
5) You're going to like this one...pull the oil pan and take a look. If there is nothing obvious, then I would loosen the mains. Just a couple turns is all that's needed, then tap them with a rubber hammer or something similar to break them loose. Hopefully, by this point, your motor will turn.
Try turning the motor after each of these steps.
Have you turned the engine over since the engine and trans were bolted together?
If not your torque converter could be improperly installed.
The engine and trans will physically bolt together but there will be an "interference fit" between the torque converter and the
flexplate/crankshaft causing the two to bind.
the only way to fix that is to pull the trans and re-seat the torque converter and bolt it all together.
If not your torque converter could be improperly installed.
The engine and trans will physically bolt together but there will be an "interference fit" between the torque converter and the
flexplate/crankshaft causing the two to bind.
the only way to fix that is to pull the trans and re-seat the torque converter and bolt it all together.
That'ss where I was getting. If the convertor wasn't fully seated, then the engine will be pushing the "smooth" shaaft part that goes into the trans, into the pump gear....locking it up. I think this is your issue the more I thtink of it.
I think you will find that when you remove that 1 bolt(nut), that it'll loosen up a bit. Then you can remove the rest. If not, you'll have to loosen the bell housing . Anyways...you'll need to move the trans back far enough to be able to work with the TC. Turn it back and fortth and see if it "drops" in farther than it is now.
Exactly what Stepman is saying.
There are 2 flats machined onto the torque converter snout. If the converter isn't lined up properly the "snout" of the converter does not engage the trans fluid pump, it sticks out quite a bit farther than it should.
When properly assembled you should actually have to pull the converter out of the trans a little bit to mate/bolt it to the flexplate.
There are 2 flats machined onto the torque converter snout. If the converter isn't lined up properly the "snout" of the converter does not engage the trans fluid pump, it sticks out quite a bit farther than it should.
When properly assembled you should actually have to pull the converter out of the trans a little bit to mate/bolt it to the flexplate.
Last edited by toybreaker; Aug 26, 2009 at 12:30 PM. Reason: edited for clarity


