Wow. Get those brakes checked! That is the worse feeling in the world. Driving and realizing your brakes went out lol
Thanks for all your help.

 

Canary, I believe if you look at the fuse box, the is a small bolt in the center. Must be removed from inside the car. That is what holds the 2 halves together. It doesn't come completely out either, it will just get to a point where it just spins.

 

Oh ok, I will check for one.

By the way, I just checked and I have 12V at the ignition switch. It is being fed 12V.

 

I just thought of something what distributor/coil do you have?

 

Where on the switch? At the S term or at the B?

 

I mean I get the 12V from the B connection, the wire coming from the pos side of the solenoid. With the ignition switch boot disconnected, I would have to jump the B and S term to test the S term for voltage.

Some other things:

I get zero resistance from the S term at the switch to the S term at the solenoid.
I get zero resistance from the S term at the switch to ground

When I try to test the B connection at the switch to ground, the resistance goes way below zero and if I switch my test leads (red and black), it goes way above infiniti.


Flash, I have the stock dual advance (I believe) distributor and the stock yellow-top coil.

 

You can't check resistance in a powered cicuit. You are actually seeing the voltage there. This may sound dumb now, but What color wire is on your S term. Sounds dumb to me now, cus you have the same one you always had...right?

It sounds like your wire has been broken by something and is rubbing on the body somewhere. A couple more things to look at and I am off to bed. What do you have from the S wire at the ign to ground (ign off). If you have zero ohms, unplug that firewall conn and check each side again. This will tell you if your problem is inside or outside.

It's been a long road but, I think we are narrowing it down.

 

Sorry, that's what I meant. With the ignition off, I get 0 ohms from the S wire at the ign to ground.

I'll have to figure out how to disconnect this firewall connection, I'm not seeing a bolt on it.

 

For me when I disconnect the coil from the wiring harness I get full voltage at the S term but when it gets connected it shares the voltage between the coil and the S term (give or take 5-6 volts at each usually adding up to around 11 something). Do you have the same problem? Sounds stupid lol

 

Hmm... I think that's very interesting.

Sometime when I was trying to test the voltage at my coil during the rebuild, I took off the wire feeding power to the coil and turned the switch to run and the engine tried to crank. Then I put it back and it wouldn't crank. Something like that.

Edit: Flash, have you tested your S wire at the solenoid to ground? What do you get?