Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

accelerator linkage question

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Old 08-15-2009, 06:10 PM
  #1  
longlive289s
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Default accelerator linkage question

so back in july during the mustang roundup on the way home i snapped my accelerator linkage :-/

this is basically what i did have. it was a kit from schucks auto supply


this is where the linkage actually hooked up to the pedal. the wire that comes from this to the accelerator pulled out and snapped


this is what it is now (ghetto)


some of you wanna take some pics of your linkages for me to try and figure out how you all did it. after the 2bbl -> 4bbl swap the original linkage didnt even come close to fitting. Trying to figure out something to put together more permanent that will work. really dont wanna order something. just wanna put something togeather that i can get at home improvement stores/auto stores etc

thanks all
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:13 PM
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2+2GT
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Looks like Rube Goldberg. Just get the stock linkage and you'll be safe and happy. Seriously. I've done a lot of them, and the only change I do is drill the tip of the carb end for a small cotter pin, instead of the stock clip, which won't fit the generic Holley arm, which is GM style:

http://www.gerlecreek.com/images/69-70mustaccellink.jpg

Last edited by 2+2GT; 08-15-2009 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:29 PM
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jonward786
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this

https://mustangforums.com/forum/clas...-complete.html

another source here

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...kage/index.php
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:34 PM
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67mustang302
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If you get the carb mounted dual spring return kit, it comes with the reducer bushings for the large hole in the carb linkage, then use a piece of stainless or galvanized rod and thread each end, one for the adjuster on the pedal arm, and on the other you put a spherical rod end with a jamb nut, then a small bolt goes through the rod end and the bushings on the carb linkage, and holds the throttle linkage and return spring to the carb linkage. You could also use rod ends at both ends, but requires a bit more accuracy when you make the linkage rod to have the right length for adjustment.

At least, that's the slick way to do it, otherwise, yeah, use a stock replacement.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:18 PM
  #5  
Canary94GT
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Do you go to the Schucks in Totem Lake? That's where I go

/offtopic

by the way, I think we have the same heater hoses
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:27 PM
  #6  
1slow67
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My dad brought home a rod that was threaded on both ends 1/4 28. Company online sells parts that move on something similar to a ball joint. I'll get pics and part numbers tomorrow.
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Old 08-16-2009, 12:14 AM
  #7  
chris66dad
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My son Chris made ours for the 66 from the article listed above. Looks and works great.
Good Luck and Be safe
Ron
Attached Thumbnails accelerator linkage question-carblink2a.jpg   accelerator linkage question-carblinka.jpg  
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:15 AM
  #8  
kalli
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i use the stock linkage as well. instead of a cotter pin i cut a circular groove with a pipe cutter and installed an E-clip

on a sidenote: if you use the upper hole as in your first picture in most cases you have to grind down your attachment as it'll hit the big circle when you press the throttle.
a snapped linkage is usually the case of having it too tight. which is crap for carb linkage as well. so make sure whatever linkage you install is installed in such a way that on full throttle the blades are just fully open

Last edited by kalli; 08-16-2009 at 06:17 AM.
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:53 AM
  #9  
Jonk67
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This is the best pic I've got of mine before I disassembled the car:


I picked up a piece of 1/4" alum. rod at HD and threaded each end, I looked for the ball and socket fittings local but gave up and ordered them from Summit, you may be able to find them local. I've seen them stock on some cars. You can also use rod ends/heims as pictured above, either way be sure to use jam nuts on each end so they don't loosen.
Jon
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