Comp engeering slid a link
5th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,100
From: Texas Hill Country
I am in Fredericksburg, but I do most of my work at Alamo Speed Shop and get most of my stuff from Alamo Performance. I commute to SA everyday, so I am through Boerne twice as day. Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. I drive the beast into town most pretty Fridays. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to email. Shoot me a PM with your email and I will send you my info. I do not know much about 71+ Mustangs, but general stuff I can help out with. I also have a bunch of drag race and performance contact in SA that are a big help.
I forgot about this post. I will try to remember to take a look when I am at the shop next week. I was just looking at them tonight. I am all most positive I installed the bracket without the two smaller bolts. The picture Adrenolin posted is not correctly installed. The round bar at the top of the bracket (far right in the picture) should be installed above the leaf springs. Normally the top bar would be installed above the springs and the bottom bar and the two small bolts installed below the springs providing for a sandwich affect. The top bar provides the leverage that the tube pushes against the top of the spring and prevents the axle from moving much (bushing will give a little bit which makes it more streetable than Cal-Tracs). The two bolts would normally mount on the bottom of the springs but with the 4.5 there is not enough room so just leave them out. I believe I ended up cutting the bottom bar piece off so that I just use the round bar on top of the springs. The bottom bar (slot bar) and small bolts really do nothing anyway from what I can see. All the force from a launch is going to try to rotate the axle up and move it forward which the slide a link acts against that force by not allowing it to move much (the force on the bracket from the tube will be forward thus pushing the bar on top of the springs down into the spring and limiting the movement).
Does that make sense?
I forgot about this post. I will try to remember to take a look when I am at the shop next week. I was just looking at them tonight. I am all most positive I installed the bracket without the two smaller bolts. The picture Adrenolin posted is not correctly installed. The round bar at the top of the bracket (far right in the picture) should be installed above the leaf springs. Normally the top bar would be installed above the springs and the bottom bar and the two small bolts installed below the springs providing for a sandwich affect. The top bar provides the leverage that the tube pushes against the top of the spring and prevents the axle from moving much (bushing will give a little bit which makes it more streetable than Cal-Tracs). The two bolts would normally mount on the bottom of the springs but with the 4.5 there is not enough room so just leave them out. I believe I ended up cutting the bottom bar piece off so that I just use the round bar on top of the springs. The bottom bar (slot bar) and small bolts really do nothing anyway from what I can see. All the force from a launch is going to try to rotate the axle up and move it forward which the slide a link acts against that force by not allowing it to move much (the force on the bracket from the tube will be forward thus pushing the bar on top of the springs down into the spring and limiting the movement).
Does that make sense?
Last edited by urban_cowboy; Mar 20, 2010 at 12:22 AM.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,035
From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
Nothing to do but cut them which is what I finally had to do. Used a grinder with a new cutoff disk. Score a scratch across using a straight edge & scratch pen where your cutting then use the cutoff disk scoring through the leaf. IIRC I made about 10 to 12 passes to cut through. You want to do thin layered cuts to keep heat levels down and to ensure you do not score the leaf below. Even a small score can cause the leaf to weaken quickly and could cause it to snap hitting a bump on the road. Also.. Leaf springs are VERY hard and its not like cutting regular 1/4". Take your time and a short break every 3 or4 passes to allow for cooling.
About 3000 miles on them now and no issues. Good luck.
About 3000 miles on them now and no issues. Good luck.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,035
From: Delaware(US) & Nova Scotia(Canada)
As UC stated the pic I posted above shows how they incorrectly went together. Also removing those 2 bolts didn't help as they screw into the bracket. The only way that would work would be to cut the lower plate off. Not sure if they differ between 67/68 and the 69 products.
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 14
From: texas
ok so my 2 options are cut that little bar under that roller type bearing, or cut about 2 inches off the 2nd leaf spring (taking my time and doing it slow!!!) but what should i cut that leaf with like a dremel tool? I have my saw zaw but that could jump and not cut in a streight line.......... Thanks for the help guys yes a pic would help PM sent
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 14
From: texas
oh crap i just need to read more thanks adrenolin ill go and get a cuting disc for my grinder just in case. and i guess i cant send pm's i tryed but it was a no go. i was looking at mine and i think i need to cut right at the 2nd leaf where that round insulator is .... looks like its going to be a pita
