Billkubi

I got the alternator working and now on to the gauges.

Voltmeter only shows a discharge when stuff is turned on does not show a charge with engine running, But I get 14 volts across the battery poles with the engine running and 12.5 volts with the engine off.

Fuel gauge, oil pressure and engine temp all dead

Where to start?????

2+2GT

Well, the fuel, oil, and temp get their power from the small constant voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. If it's getting power, then it's shot. Make sure you're sitting down when you get the price.

The amp gauge in these cars was poor. If you clean and grease every connection between the dash and alternator you might get it to work.

Billkubi

I'm not sure if I understand you. If that regulator is getting power it's bad? doesn't it need power to work?

JMD

Did you go back with a stock alternator or did you upgrade?

A 1 wire job won't go through the ammeter at all if it is wired right, (directly to the battery).

MetalEd

I didn't see a listing for which car, But i had a similar problem wit my 64.5. First of all since they are all dead it should be fairly simple to track down (not sending units... more than likely it is in the dash).. First, is your gauge bezel in the dash? The bezel makes the ground for the gauges, none of them will register if the instruments are removed from the dash without a ground cable. (on the early mustangs.) If that's the case, put them back in the dash and install the mounting screws to ground them. How about a fuse? Then I would check the TINY voltage regulator for the instruments.
Most manuals have a description on how to track down the problem of no instruments working.. I would suggest that if none of the above work, but it sounds like you are not getting the ground feed since they are all out. (the sending units complete the circuit... but I won't go into how to test them individually since yours are all out, it must be a power problem going into the instruments, not from the sending units unless you disconnected them all..)
If I knew a little more about your car (year), I could help.. I have the test procedure somewhere, if you can't find it, let me know and I will look for it. I went through it and it was the mounting screws weren't installed since I work on a dozens parts at once.

Canary94GT

MetalEd, his vehicle information says he has a 1968 coupe.

MetalEd

That's what I get for using a PDA for the net <grin> (no, just old..)
The info should be correct for it then.

2+2GT

That's a decision matrix. It's obvious that your gauges aren't getting any power FROM the CVR, so if it's GETTING power, it's junk. I just don't suggest spending $50 on a new CVR until you've checked it. If it isn't getting any power, your wiring is damaged.

Billkubi

Thanks for the info, Never too old to learn something new. I put my test light from ground to one side of that instrument voltage regulator with the ignition key turned on and got power (light came on) on the other side of it nothing.
Does that mean the regulator is shot?????

Billkubi

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...N8S_tweWjZDjDw