Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #11  
Starfury's Avatar
Starfury
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Elk Grove, CA
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Originally Posted by pinboy122
unless you have a roller cam,you need to use oil high in zink like shell rotella 15w40 for diesels
Diesel oils no longer have enough zinc in them for flat tappet motors. All of the readily available diesel oils (Rotella T, Delo, Fleet Guard, etc) have all been switched to the new CJ-4 standard which mandates no more than 800ppm ZDDP. You want at least 1200 in a flat tappet motor. All of the diesel oils I've found with high zinc content have been fleet oils not designed for high-rpm motors.

Options are:
Regular oil with zinc additives (STP Blue or Red, plus some ZDDPlus, GM EOS, etc for break-in)
Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil
Valvoline off-road racing oil (break-in only)

After 10k mi, you can switch to a synthetic like Mobil 1 15W50, Castrol Syntec 20W50, Redline, or Torco.
Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:55 PM
  #12  
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sschanz
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Only other thing I can think of is a camcorder! Would love to see the first start posted here! Good luck.
Old Oct 1, 2009 | 08:53 PM
  #13  
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Stepman
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Az
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Well, the first start is to find issues that you may have missed. Hopefully, everything internal is ok. Give it a good look and make sure everything is in it's place. Make sure all is bolted up, wires out of the way, plug wires not laying on exhaust, nothing in the way of the fan, double check oil level....I usually fill with water first in case of leaks. (Just sit for a few and stare at it, this is usually when someething to check will pop into your head) Once you get it running, watch for oil, fuel, and water leaks. Also, watch to make sure the oil pressure comes up right away. LISTEN to it. If you see or hear something you don't like, shut it down. Once you are happy with it, drain water and refill with coolant.

Edit: Then you can smile and go have a cold one
Old Oct 3, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #14  
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Flash70
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From: PA
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*edit* okay tried to start her up and it just keeps turning over. I can smell burning gas but it wont fire up. I think that means my spark plugs might be firing wrong?? or not enough gas is getting to the chambers. I am going to put it back to TDC and double check my order. I researched and it said commonly shops put in new cams that require the 351 firing order in a 302 after rebuild?? They did not say anything to me about that so I just assume its the same. Maybe not. It sounds like it wants to start.


longish update of things i noticed...
I primed it. at first my drill started heating up a little bit and I noticed a type of lube or something that was dark gray was coming out of the holes then it started flowing pure oil. Is that normal??? Also for some reason it took me nearly 30mins to get the distributor back in after priming it. I had to change where the rotor sat to even get it all the way in. I assumed that is normal because the hex tip of the oil pump was move around because of the priming.
I did not use a priming rod because apparently none of the 5 stores I called carry them. I instead bought a 1/4 socket extension that is like 6 inches long with a spark plug 1/4 socket on the end worked perfect.
Also i have a slight leak in my water system. The bottom part of the radiator is a different size hose than the bottom part of the water pump.... I have no clue how I am going to fix that but whatever I just threw big square oring on it and clamped it down super tight. Hopefully does the trick just so i can see how it runs.
thanks for the help guys.
I was trying to figure out what type of cam i have but I have no clue as I did not rebuild the motor but had a professional do it. I do not think he would have changed anything?? If it was a 71 302 now bored .30 wouldnt it still have the same type of cam?

Last edited by Flash70; Oct 3, 2009 at 07:53 PM.
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