I would check the switch for continuity. Make sure beyond any doubt the switch closes in both positions.

It could be the harness, particularly where the wire enters the connector's rubber insulator at the dimmer switch, or the female connector itself.


You could jumper the 12v and the low beam feed again, but TURN THE LIGHTS OFF until your jumper is secure, then turn them on. Headlights draw a lot of current hence the "Pop," just watch for smoke and hope for light..

 

Hey!!!! I got the low beams to work - sort of - let me walk through how I ended up getting low beams and then the question of how do I keep them working....

The red/yellow on mine is the hot lead but it's not in the middle on the harness, it's to the right. It tested hot. So we know the headlight switch is good.

The high beams, green/black (2 wires) is in the middle of the connector, and is hot.

The low beams, red/black, is on the left, nothing.

I checked for continuity from the low beam on the dimmer switch to the firewall plug. Good continuity.

I then did as suggested and removed the dimmer switch. I made a jumper from the power wire to the low beams. Attached battery....said a few prayers and turned on the headlight switch. LOW BEAMS WORK!

So what is this telling me? Is it telling me that the HL switch is good but the dimmer harness is bad?

The Painless dimmer harness has two high beam green/black wires, whereas on the spare harness I have only has one lead into the high. I guess it's fine to just join those two together.

What do you think? Harness?? Man I am excited we got this to work!

 

Unless I'm missing something jumpering from the hot lead to the lowbeam feed and getting lights indicates a bad dimmer switch.
Check the switch itself for continuity. Put one lead on the hot lug and one lead on the low beam lug. Cycle the switch through both positions. It should be open in one position and closed in the other.

 

I may have read it wrong.... So the harness is wired wrong for your car? I told you it does happen..

So the power, the low beam and the hi-beam all have wires at the painless connector, but they are wired wrong for for your switch? (or are they wired right and the switch isn't doing it's job?)
Two options if it's wired wrong, buy another connector, cut that one off and wire it correctly.

Or the one I would do, just cut the wires a few inches above the connector, strip about 1/4" off all wires, then wire it to the same plug in the order they go using crimped splice connectors. don't twist and tape, it will come off eventually! Use a good crimp tool or the heat and crimp connectors (a spot of solder in the connector), then cover with shrink tubing to keep the connector from jiggling around which could make the connection come loose in time (the weakest link and it is near your foot!). Do it the way you want, this is what I do, but no tape!

You may want to talk to painless... maybe they sent the wrong year or have it wired wrong... the other possibility is you have the wrong switch for the wiring harness they make .. they could tell you what's up and tell you how to correct it without you altering the wiring.
Glad you found it, the rest is downhill!

 

Yep! You were right. I emailed Painless. THEY wired it wrong! So it does happen and it happened to me.

Painless told me to insert a paper clip into the connector to remove, then insert in the right order.

I guess that will do the trick!

Man what a pain. BUT I DID learn a LOT more about my car in the process!

 

Glad to hear you're all set.
And hey, now you can drive at night.