Well, these guys are, as the movie line goes, "the pros from Dover". They have been down this road before, with cars this bad. This one was actually a little worse:

 

I used self tapping sheet metal screws to hold my two pieces of pans together. As you can see, I used the plug type of welds first, then ran a seam weld around to ensure the two pieces are as strong as possible. As I removed the sheet metal screws, a quick "plug" type of weld to plug up the hole ensures no holes left. After I replaced my pans, I took it and had it sandblasted. I should have had it sandblasted first, but it didn't really matter. There was more metal to replace after I had it sandblasted, I just replaced the really obvious stuff first.
Lots of rust too. The replacement pieces go in pretty much as a straightforward process. They do require some massaging to fit as you want. Each car may fit a little differently. No two are exactly the same. Remember, the factory built these cars as fast as they could, so the tolerances will probably be better after you finish with the car than what it looked like from the factory, if your patient and take your time. Always think a step or two ahead of where you actually are. What a transformation from an old rust heap to new metal!

 

Looking very good.
How big is that Lincoln welder?
Is it doing everything you need it to do?
Lynn

 

Yes the Lincoln is more than enough. It is a 220v welder and has done everything I have needed. If anyone is looking for one, Lincoln's or Millers are about the best out there.

 

I'm looking at a Lincoln 140 amp, right now.
Lynn

 

I won't be doing my metal work until Spring next year (2010)

 

that'll do 99% of the welding on the car. if you're only doing sheet metal, it'll work great. some of the heavier stuff is a little iffy (bumper brackets, subframe) but doable.

i've used a hobart handler 135 for all of my welding. it's more than powerful enough.

 

The local Tractor Supply has a Hobart 140 amp Mig gas set up for over $110 less then the 140 amp Lincoln at Lowes, I though about getting that.

Lynn

 

That's the one I just got last week, The Hobart Handler 140 amp Mig/Gas 110 volt. They sell it 3 different ways, with the welding stand and with or with out the regulator.. so you can get the one without the regulator and upgrade later if you don't need it right away. I bought it with the regulator for roughly $440 from Sears Online (Sears Charge), but I think it can be had for less.
It's more than enough power for the sheet metal and other automotive work. I'll be working on the cowl and replacing both floor pans. Weather changed today, so I will probably start in the spring as well (gives me time to practice with this machine). A real nice change from my little 90amp I used to have. You can also get the supplies (tank, self darkening mask, etc.) pretty good quality and cheap at harbor freight. I wouldn't get a welder from them though.
Everywhere I looked, this one got very good ratings.

added: BTW, the Hobart Handler may be made by Miller. Read it during a couple searches.

 

Tractor supply has the Hobart 140 amp Mig/gas regulator set up, No stand, for $449 on sale, the same comparable Lincoln is $559 at Lowe's.
I may think about getting this set up. I'd be looking forward to hearing from you once you get to more working with it.
Lynn