Just bought a 69 fastback, time to learn how to fix and care for it
10-20-2009, 06:43 PM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 83
Just bought a 69 fastback, time to learn how to fix and care for it
I just bought a 69 fastback with 302 (not boss) that runs but needs some work. An earlier owner started a restoration, but did not finish. Guy i bought it from had it for 6 years waiting for his son to fix it up with him which never happend and the guy claimed he started it up on a regular basis, drove it a few times a year. My trucks have always been just tools, so i never put in any wrench time myself, but i want to fix this car, have a decent understanding of engines, and a shop with space and tools.
Gas? Owners manual says at least 94 octane, but i'm not sure the best to use with the leaded / unleaded difference, or if that even effects it.
Oil? Oil pressure is low, and after running the car there is a slow drip from somewhere around the oil filter, I'm assuming it's just from the filter being too old and the seals gone. What is the best kind of oil to use, filter, etc? Book says 101-B with a FL-1 filter.
Horn? I'm guessing the horn is a metal circular bar on the bottom part of the steering wheel. Nothing happens when i press it, but the movement doesn't feel bad. Just to pass state inspections, should I go ahead and run a new line, maybe put in a spare horn, or is there something easy to check without pulling off the dash?
Brakes? How hard is it to convert from drum to disc, and is it worth it?
Gas? Owners manual says at least 94 octane, but i'm not sure the best to use with the leaded / unleaded difference, or if that even effects it.
Oil? Oil pressure is low, and after running the car there is a slow drip from somewhere around the oil filter, I'm assuming it's just from the filter being too old and the seals gone. What is the best kind of oil to use, filter, etc? Book says 101-B with a FL-1 filter.
Horn? I'm guessing the horn is a metal circular bar on the bottom part of the steering wheel. Nothing happens when i press it, but the movement doesn't feel bad. Just to pass state inspections, should I go ahead and run a new line, maybe put in a spare horn, or is there something easy to check without pulling off the dash?
Brakes? How hard is it to convert from drum to disc, and is it worth it?
10-20-2009, 07:39 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 800
You can probably get away with whatever gas you like in it, premium would be ideal but it's probably not in pristine shape and requiring super high octane.
The oil leak, well mine has a bit of the same in the same place. It's so slow and so little I don't worry about it though. Oh, and the oil pressure gauges on these cars are pretty useless, if it shows any pressure at all you're fine.
And the horn, the obvious place to start is right at the horns, make sure the wires are connected, if so, pull them off and test for voltage, if you get some, you can try adjusting the horns with the adjusting screws on the side.
And the brakes, it's not all that hard to convert, but expect it to cost you $1000-1500 or more for a shop to do it. There are kits available from parts suppliers for the conversion as well, or you can pull a setup from a junkyard and do it yourself. The drums though will be fine, I drive mine all the time with 4 manual drums and have no problems.
I also suggest you pick up a factory service manual, they're very helpful.
The oil leak, well mine has a bit of the same in the same place. It's so slow and so little I don't worry about it though. Oh, and the oil pressure gauges on these cars are pretty useless, if it shows any pressure at all you're fine.
And the horn, the obvious place to start is right at the horns, make sure the wires are connected, if so, pull them off and test for voltage, if you get some, you can try adjusting the horns with the adjusting screws on the side.
And the brakes, it's not all that hard to convert, but expect it to cost you $1000-1500 or more for a shop to do it. There are kits available from parts suppliers for the conversion as well, or you can pull a setup from a junkyard and do it yourself. The drums though will be fine, I drive mine all the time with 4 manual drums and have no problems.
I also suggest you pick up a factory service manual, they're very helpful.
10-20-2009, 08:13 PM
#4
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
Gas? Owners manual says at least 94 octane, but i'm not sure the best to use with the leaded / unleaded difference, or if that even effects it.
Unleaded pump regular will be just fine for an F code 302 2V. Lack of lead may cause valve seat wear, but not significant.
Oil? Oil pressure is low, and after running the car there is a slow drip from somewhere around the oil filter, I'm assuming it's just from the filter being too old and the seals gone. What is the best kind of oil to use, filter, etc? Book says 101-B with a FL-1 filter.
10-W30 or 10-W40, with STP oil treatment (for ZDDP and micro-refined lubrication) and a Motorcraft FL-1A.
Horn? I'm guessing the horn is a metal circular bar on the bottom part of the steering wheel. Nothing happens when i press it, but the movement doesn't feel bad. Just to pass state inspections, should I go ahead and run a new line, maybe put in a spare horn, or is there something easy to check without pulling off the dash?
Check the horns themselves by jumping a wire from the battery + to the connector on the horn. Then get back to us.
Brakes? How hard is it to convert from drum to disc, and is it worth it?
Can be done in a Saturday. No, unless you live in the mountains or drive the car hard. Properly maintained drums will drive on the street exactly as well as discs, and without power boost drums are actually easier. You can change over now, later, or never, whatever suits your driving style.
Unleaded pump regular will be just fine for an F code 302 2V. Lack of lead may cause valve seat wear, but not significant.
Oil? Oil pressure is low, and after running the car there is a slow drip from somewhere around the oil filter, I'm assuming it's just from the filter being too old and the seals gone. What is the best kind of oil to use, filter, etc? Book says 101-B with a FL-1 filter.
10-W30 or 10-W40, with STP oil treatment (for ZDDP and micro-refined lubrication) and a Motorcraft FL-1A.
Horn? I'm guessing the horn is a metal circular bar on the bottom part of the steering wheel. Nothing happens when i press it, but the movement doesn't feel bad. Just to pass state inspections, should I go ahead and run a new line, maybe put in a spare horn, or is there something easy to check without pulling off the dash?
Check the horns themselves by jumping a wire from the battery + to the connector on the horn. Then get back to us.
Brakes? How hard is it to convert from drum to disc, and is it worth it?
Can be done in a Saturday. No, unless you live in the mountains or drive the car hard. Properly maintained drums will drive on the street exactly as well as discs, and without power boost drums are actually easier. You can change over now, later, or never, whatever suits your driving style.
10-20-2009, 08:21 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: texas
Posts: 190
+1 need to see pics but will say the disc conversion is nice but... I just finished installing an all drum manual car to front power discs. I am here to tell ya it is not an easy project. From start to finish it probably took me about 30 hours. The two hardest parts were removing the original brake to install the replacement and grinding the firewall and bolting in the brake booster. Those two things both suck and are very time consuming. Oh installing the hard lines for the proportioning valve wasn't fun either so three things. 
If you are not up for all those hours, I'd suggest going with one of those kits that just converts from drums to discs on the front. A manual disc conversion doesn't require modding the firewall or changing out the brake pedal so is much easier. It would probably only take you a day to do the manual disc conversion.
If you are not up for all those hours, I'd suggest going with one of those kits that just converts from drums to discs on the front. A manual disc conversion doesn't require modding the firewall or changing out the brake pedal so is much easier. It would probably only take you a day to do the manual disc conversion.
Last edited by oldrock; 10-20-2009 at 08:24 PM.
10-20-2009, 08:30 PM
#6
I have no advice, but I can say the 69's are my favorite! Husband has a coupe, LOVE EM...
and congrats! Welcome to MForums... and Texas... Born there, will forever be a Texan, even if I live in Oklahoma... ;-)
and congrats! Welcome to MForums... and Texas... Born there, will forever be a Texan, even if I live in Oklahoma... ;-)
10-20-2009, 08:34 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 286
Ditto on the book. Books books and more books. I learned a ton from just books and this forum. The forum really comes into play when you read something and do not quite understand it or are not sure then come to the forum for some professional help.
If you are used to disc brakes and not drum I would recommend converting the front. If you are used to driving drum or can adjust to driving it then keep them but do not expect to be able to make the same kind of stopping power as discs.
If you want to learn engines buy a book but in all reality you need a friend or someone that knows a lot to help. I would suggest buying a crap old engine from the junkyard and using it to learn. A mistake on a good engine can be huge $$$$. I tried to learn the engine rebuilding from a book and after looking at it just decided to take it to a professional until I get another project to work on.
Pictures please good luck.
If you are used to disc brakes and not drum I would recommend converting the front. If you are used to driving drum or can adjust to driving it then keep them but do not expect to be able to make the same kind of stopping power as discs.
If you want to learn engines buy a book but in all reality you need a friend or someone that knows a lot to help. I would suggest buying a crap old engine from the junkyard and using it to learn. A mistake on a good engine can be huge $$$$. I tried to learn the engine rebuilding from a book and after looking at it just decided to take it to a professional until I get another project to work on.
Pictures please
good luck.
10-20-2009, 08:38 PM
#8
And pix would be awesome....
10-21-2009, 06:57 AM
#9
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 83
Thanks for the responses, and thanks 2+2GT for the tip on checking the horn. I put some pictures under a profile album, guess i should have put a link. I'm going to have a lot of projects to tackle, and eventually i'll get more details pics. After I get it road worthy and pass inspection, I'm going to start with getting the A/C working again, then start the long process of slowly redoing the interior. It's in good shape for 40 years, but everything inside is worn.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...eeds-work.html
https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...eeds-work.html
10-21-2009, 07:23 AM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,232
In normal street driving, the drums and the discs have the same swept area, so it's a matter of fade, in repeated hard stops, that makes the difference. "Planning ahead" (I like that) is only needed if the brakes are not well adjusted, or if you are simply accustomed to newer cars with power boost. Adding power boost to the drums, a legit period option, makes the drums react exactly the same as discs in normal street driving, for a lot less cost and effort than disc and power. Going from manual drums to manual disc actually makes the pedal harder, because discs require higher line pressure.
It boils down to how you drive, and where. If you just go for fun drives and cruise night, disc conversion is a waste. If you autocross with a car club, get discs.
It boils down to how you drive, and where. If you just go for fun drives and cruise night, disc conversion is a waste. If you autocross with a car club, get discs.