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'64 1/2 Powertrain options

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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 03:36 PM
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Default '64 1/2 Powertrain options

Hello,
I have a late 64 1/2 Mustang hardtop (July 13, 1964) with its original D code 289 4BBL V8 and C4 automatic transmission with five bolt bellhousing. I've put an Edelbrock Performer intake and Thunder AVS 650 CFM carburetor, dual exhaust, and a Pertronix ignition, with FRPP cap & rotor & 9mm wires. Otherwise its's bone stock. Because I tend to drive it like it's stolen, it doesn't get very good gas mileage. While that's not a major concern, I'd like to make it both more powerful and more efficient in the future.
I have toyed with the idea of a modern small block combination with a five speed manual, such as a T&L 347 stroker, but after driving a friend's 94 with a 5.0 H.O (with a trickflow intake and TW heads), I'm questioning whether I really need 400 plus horses in my car. But he says he gets 22 mpg on the highway, which is great compared to mine!
Even if I did put a modern small block in my car, I'd keep the original engine, as it does have the early timing cover with the oil filler. Rather than having an extra motor sitting in the garage, I'd like to explore the possibility of improving the power and economy of my original engine. I'm sure that this is the more expensive option, considering that 5.0 shortblocks are cheap and plentiful.
So, I'm considering the following: a complete rebuild, including hot-tanking the original block, a set of Hi-Po rods and pistons, and possibly a new crankshaft. Plus a new high-volume oil pump, a Crane roller cam, lifters, & rods, and new heads that breath better than the originals, along with headers. I haven't put headers on yet only because I think it would be a waste with the current heads.
Are there bellhousings to allow me to mount a five speed manual to my five bolt engine? Or, should I have the C4 beefed up? I've always wanted a V8 manual combination, so I'd settle for a four speed, if I had to!
I'd like to hear your thoughts and suggestions...
Thanks,
Brian
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Hmm… Depends on how you define "it doesn't get very good gas mileage". I would expect 18-20 on the highway, with a properly tuned D code 289.

There is an adapter plate intended to attach a T5 5-speed to your 5-bolt bell.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Hi 2+2,
Thanks for the reply and the PM. I actually just sent them a catalog request last night.
I will get the adaptor plate for the T-5. That was the only thing holding me back from doing a performance build on the 289.
My buddy with the '94 GT still thinks it makes more $ense to put a late model engine in , but I think it will be a lot cooler to have the original engine (with better cam and heads) in the car!
Thanks Again,
Brian
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by super64
My buddy with the '94 GT still thinks it makes more $ense to put a late model engine in , but I think it will be a lot cooler to have the original engine (with better cam and heads) in the car!
If you really want to me$$ with him, just port match the exhaust ports to a set of 289HP exhaust manifolds. Then use a C9OZ-C hydraulic HiPo cam, and 600 cfm carb. Get the distributor curve adjusted (it's probably way off anyway) for performance. It'll look to him like the same engine, cost you under a grand, but it'll have a whole new punch.

The exhaust ports were the weakest part of the 289/302 engine. The passage is too small, especially at the gasket surface, and crudeness of the opening often makes it worse. You need to remove the red shaded area around the opening, but on an early head, no need to go deeply into the port.

Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
Hmm… Depends on how you define "it doesn't get very good gas mileage". I would expect 18-20 on the highway, with a properly tuned D code 289.

There is an adapter plate intended to attach a T5 5-speed to your 5-bolt bell.

Do you think it would work on my C4 Bell?

Per my owners manual I always have the shifter at the green dot (not drive)position, and my highway speeds are generally around 70-80 MPH. This probably does not help my overall MPG. I'm sure that living at high altitude near Denver doesn't help either.
On my next long highway trip, I will write down my odometer readings at each refill. I anticipate getting roughly what you would expect-18-20 MPG.
Thanks Again,
Brian
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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Do you think it would work on my C4 Bell?
No, it will not. You'll need a stock 5-bolt manual bell.

Per my owners manual I always have the shifter at the green dot (not drive)position,
The green dot IS the drive position. The small black dot eliminates 1st gear, a real performance killer but great for driving in rain or snow.

and my highway speeds are generally around 70-80 MPH. This probably does not help my overall MPG. I'm sure that living at high altitude near Denver doesn't help either.
Right on both counts- drive slower and lower, and it'll get better.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
If you really want to me$$ with him, just port match the exhaust ports to a set of 289HP exhaust manifolds. Then use a C9OZ-C hydraulic HiPo cam, and 600 cfm carb. Get the distributor curve adjusted (it's probably way off anyway) for performance. It'll look to him like the same engine, cost you under a grand, but it'll have a whole new punch.

The exhaust ports were the weakest part of the 289/302 engine. The passage is too small, especially at the gasket surface, and crudeness of the opening often makes it worse. You need to remove the red shaded area around the opening, but on an early head, no need to go deeply into the port.

That's Excellent information! Should I change anything else in the valvetrain for the new cam?
The exhaust port stuff is excellent, too! I was considering the HiPo exhaust manifolds at one time, but decided with the stock heads, it would be a waste of time. I figured, if I was taking the heads off anyway, go with some Edelbrocks or Darts. But most of the better aftermarket choices for me turn out to have smaller chambers and flow. So, in a long,round about way, I agree that reworking my original heads might make more sense-both economically and performance-wise!
Your right about the distributor- I actually attempted to have it recurved by an elderly gentleman with an old Sunn distributor machine, but he said he couldn't do it without points in it (I have a Pertronix Ignitor II in it). Do you have any idea how difficult it is to find anyone with a Sunn machine here in Denver?
I was going to get the Crane Cams Street/Strip distributor, which has both adjustable mechanical and vacuum advance curves, but I know I have information about a guy who sells already curved OEM distributors.
It sounds like I'm getting back on the right road, here; Stealth power!
Thanks Again,
Brian

PS: Really Good Meeting You!(here!)

Last edited by super64; Oct 25, 2009 at 07:00 PM.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2+2GT
Hmm… Depends on how you define "it doesn't get very good gas mileage". I would expect 18-20 on the highway, with a properly tuned D code 289.

There is an adapter plate intended to attach a T5 5-speed to your 5-bolt bell.
I would think more like 15 or so mpg. Thats my experience with the carbed V8 non overdrive cars.

I think having overdrive is a huge plus in any car. If you plan to drive it then I would not hesitate to do it.

The late model engine is a good choice. Its the route I took, but I did not go with EFI, its still carbed.

I do think that having an original engine is cool, but I also think think that it would be better to just save it and run a late model 302.

Last edited by tx65coupe; Oct 25, 2009 at 09:37 PM.
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 09:33 PM
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[QUOTE=2+2GT;6593467]Hmm… Depends on how you define "it doesn't get very good gas mileage". I would expect 18-20 on the highway, with a properly tuned D code 289.

double post
Old Oct 25, 2009 | 09:35 PM
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< Gets 16 with my 200 and T5



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