'64 1/2 Powertrain options
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
That's Excellent information! Should I change anything else in the valvetrain for the new cam?
Any performance cam warrants screw-in studs, and better springs would be a good idea to avoid float at your new higher rpm range.
The exhaust port stuff is excellent, too! I was considering the HiPo exhaust manifolds at one time, but decided with the stock heads, it would be a waste of time. I figured, if I was taking the heads off anyway, go with some Edelbrocks or Darts. But most of the better aftermarket choices for me turn out to have smaller chambers and flow. So, in a long,round about way, I agree that reworking my original heads might make more sense-both economically and performance-wise!
You don't have to go very far in, as you can see here:
http://www.mustangbarn.com/images/IMG_0327.jpg
Your right about the distributor- I actually attempted to have it recurved by an elderly gentleman with an old Sunn distributor machine, but he said he couldn't do it without points in it (I have a Pertronix Ignitor II in it). Do you have any idea how difficult it is to find anyone with a Sunn machine here in Denver?
Glazier Nolan offers this service, and you're right about the Pertronix. GN sticks a point plate on to do the job, the old Sun machines are pre-electronic.
Any performance cam warrants screw-in studs, and better springs would be a good idea to avoid float at your new higher rpm range.
The exhaust port stuff is excellent, too! I was considering the HiPo exhaust manifolds at one time, but decided with the stock heads, it would be a waste of time. I figured, if I was taking the heads off anyway, go with some Edelbrocks or Darts. But most of the better aftermarket choices for me turn out to have smaller chambers and flow. So, in a long,round about way, I agree that reworking my original heads might make more sense-both economically and performance-wise!
You don't have to go very far in, as you can see here:
http://www.mustangbarn.com/images/IMG_0327.jpg
Your right about the distributor- I actually attempted to have it recurved by an elderly gentleman with an old Sunn distributor machine, but he said he couldn't do it without points in it (I have a Pertronix Ignitor II in it). Do you have any idea how difficult it is to find anyone with a Sunn machine here in Denver?
Glazier Nolan offers this service, and you're right about the Pertronix. GN sticks a point plate on to do the job, the old Sun machines are pre-electronic.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
From: Colorado, USA
REAR
5 leaf springs
new shock plates
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
3/4 rear sway bar
rebuilt rear drum brakes
Front
620 LB springs
Opentracker Roller LCAs
Opentracker Street-Ready UCAs
Opentracker Roller Spring Perches
1 inch Front Sway Bar
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Export Brace, black
Monte Carlo Bar, Curved, black
SSBC disc brakes with dual master cylinder
Next comes sub-frame connectors, but I haven't decided what brand or model to install.
Other mods include Reenmachine Hella H4 Halogen light kit and a 130 amp alternator.
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
The current driveline runs well, so I'm in no rush. Currently, I'm leaning towards finding a good running 5.0 Fox/SN-05 with a five speed to cannibalize for the short-term powerplant.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
You've all been so much help. Thanks a million!
Brian
Last edited by super64; Oct 25, 2009 at 11:26 PM.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
From: Colorado, USA
You don't have to go very far in, as you can see here:
http://www.mustangbarn.com/images/IMG_0327.jpg
http://www.mustangbarn.com/images/IMG_0327.jpg
Thanks for all of your advice. I'm lucky I don't have all the money I'd need to act on my first choices-I'd be re-doing everything on this car two or three times!
Brian
4th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,676
From: Goodyear, AZ
SUper64
I was in your same state of mind when i built the engine for my 66. I did most of the work myself and my car has A LOT OF POWER! especially with the T5, it cuises saaweet.. it will go faster than i care too and i really get on it. A few thing you MUST do to your heads if you mod them and keep em.
-Screw in studs
-guide plates
Drill out the holes where the push rods come through. (these had flat sides to guide the push rods)
replace your rocker arms.
I did a post about 8 months agao on what happens when you dont.
You will also need to improve upon the stock springs. Match up the springs with the cam.
The port matching makes a HUGE difference in performance. I am really happy with the power my car has.
The crappy part is the fact that you will have about $700 into your stock heads (including roller rockers). that is a lot when you can get a set eddys for about $1k
I was in your same state of mind when i built the engine for my 66. I did most of the work myself and my car has A LOT OF POWER! especially with the T5, it cuises saaweet.. it will go faster than i care too and i really get on it. A few thing you MUST do to your heads if you mod them and keep em.
-Screw in studs
-guide plates
Drill out the holes where the push rods come through. (these had flat sides to guide the push rods)
replace your rocker arms.
I did a post about 8 months agao on what happens when you dont.
You will also need to improve upon the stock springs. Match up the springs with the cam.
The port matching makes a HUGE difference in performance. I am really happy with the power my car has.
The crappy part is the fact that you will have about $700 into your stock heads (including roller rockers). that is a lot when you can get a set eddys for about $1k
6th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,232
From: PA
relatively stock, I've done a bunch of suspension mods to make the car more driveable, including:
Very similar to mine, except I wanted better ride, so I used 4-leaf GT springs, and control the rear with Traction Masters.
I used to run a 3/4" rear bar, took it of for repairs once, decided I liked the handling without it.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I drove one of the first cars to get the conversion when it came out, always been a fan.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical,
There is no great advantage to the cable over the pushrod and bellcrank system.
as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage.
5-bolt bells turn up on eBay all the time. The rest is available new. Things to consider- Cables create a stress point on the firewall you have to deal with, and can be a limitation with exhaust.
The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state,
Jeepers, just buy the stuff new, it's not like it's expensive.
and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
I just repaired a 428SuperCobraJet last summer, he ruined his pedal support. I put a roller pedal kit in, a 9-year-old girl could push the clutch in now. Friendly enough for you?
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
Yeah, maybe a whole Saturday, if you take a long lunch. Or do you mean getting the stuff? Call Glazier Nolan, and the whole deal will appear on your front porch, including rebuilt T5, if you want.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
Not hard to do, the engine you have can go that far.
Very similar to mine, except I wanted better ride, so I used 4-leaf GT springs, and control the rear with Traction Masters.
I used to run a 3/4" rear bar, took it of for repairs once, decided I liked the handling without it.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I drove one of the first cars to get the conversion when it came out, always been a fan.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical,
There is no great advantage to the cable over the pushrod and bellcrank system.
as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage.
5-bolt bells turn up on eBay all the time. The rest is available new. Things to consider- Cables create a stress point on the firewall you have to deal with, and can be a limitation with exhaust.
The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state,
Jeepers, just buy the stuff new, it's not like it's expensive.
and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
I just repaired a 428SuperCobraJet last summer, he ruined his pedal support. I put a roller pedal kit in, a 9-year-old girl could push the clutch in now. Friendly enough for you?
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
Yeah, maybe a whole Saturday, if you take a long lunch. Or do you mean getting the stuff? Call Glazier Nolan, and the whole deal will appear on your front porch, including rebuilt T5, if you want.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
Not hard to do, the engine you have can go that far.
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 55
From: Colorado, USA
relatively stock, I've done a bunch of suspension mods to make the car more driveable, including:
Very similar to mine, except I wanted better ride, so I used 4-leaf GT springs, and control the rear with Traction Masters.
I used to run a 3/4" rear bar, took it of for repairs once, decided I liked the handling without it.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I drove one of the first cars to get the conversion when it came out, always been a fan.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical,
There is no great advantage to the cable over the pushrod and bellcrank system.
as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage.
5-bolt bells turn up on eBay all the time. The rest is available new. Things to consider- Cables create a stress point on the firewall you have to deal with, and can be a limitation with exhaust.
The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state,
Jeepers, just buy the stuff new, it's not like it's expensive.
and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
I just repaired a 428SuperCobraJet last summer, he ruined his pedal support. I put a roller pedal kit in, a 9-year-old girl could push the clutch in now. Friendly enough for you?
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
Yeah, maybe a whole Saturday, if you take a long lunch. Or do you mean getting the stuff? Call Glazier Nolan, and the whole deal will appear on your front porch, including rebuilt T5, if you want.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
Not hard to do, the engine you have can go that far.
Very similar to mine, except I wanted better ride, so I used 4-leaf GT springs, and control the rear with Traction Masters.
I used to run a 3/4" rear bar, took it of for repairs once, decided I liked the handling without it.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I drove one of the first cars to get the conversion when it came out, always been a fan.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical,
There is no great advantage to the cable over the pushrod and bellcrank system.
as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage.
5-bolt bells turn up on eBay all the time. The rest is available new. Things to consider- Cables create a stress point on the firewall you have to deal with, and can be a limitation with exhaust.
The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state,
Jeepers, just buy the stuff new, it's not like it's expensive.
and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
I just repaired a 428SuperCobraJet last summer, he ruined his pedal support. I put a roller pedal kit in, a 9-year-old girl could push the clutch in now. Friendly enough for you?
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
Yeah, maybe a whole Saturday, if you take a long lunch. Or do you mean getting the stuff? Call Glazier Nolan, and the whole deal will appear on your front porch, including rebuilt T5, if you want.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
Not hard to do, the engine you have can go that far.
Thanks again for your thoughtful reply. You points are well taken.
I will contact Glazier Nolan today...
All the Best,
Brian
5th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,462
From: Texas
That's about what I'm getting for all-around mileage. But I don't drive like I really care about mileage, either. I get on the car and have a ton of fun with it. While the engine and driveline are relatively stock, I've done a bunch of suspension mods to make the car more driveable, including:
REAR
5 leaf springs
new shock plates
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
3/4 rear sway bar
rebuilt rear drum brakes
Front
620 LB springs
Opentracker Roller LCAs
Opentracker Street-Ready UCAs
Opentracker Roller Spring Perches
1 inch Front Sway Bar
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Export Brace, black
Monte Carlo Bar, Curved, black
SSBC disc brakes with dual master cylinder
Next comes sub-frame connectors, but I haven't decided what brand or model to install.
Other mods include Reenmachine Hella H4 Halogen light kit and a 130 amp alternator.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I'll probably stay carbed, too! Mu buddy's got an onboard computer in his '94 and he's constantly fussing with it.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical, as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage. The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state, and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
The current driveline runs well, so I'm in no rush. Currently, I'm leaning towards finding a good running 5.0 Fox/SN-05 with a five speed to cannibalize for the short-term powerplant.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
You've all been so much help. Thanks a million!
Brian
REAR
5 leaf springs
new shock plates
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
3/4 rear sway bar
rebuilt rear drum brakes
Front
620 LB springs
Opentracker Roller LCAs
Opentracker Street-Ready UCAs
Opentracker Roller Spring Perches
1 inch Front Sway Bar
KYB Gas-a-Just shocks
Export Brace, black
Monte Carlo Bar, Curved, black
SSBC disc brakes with dual master cylinder
Next comes sub-frame connectors, but I haven't decided what brand or model to install.
Other mods include Reenmachine Hella H4 Halogen light kit and a 130 amp alternator.
The T-5 seems like it will give me everything I want- a Better first gear AND drop my highway RPMs!
I'll probably stay carbed, too! Mu buddy's got an onboard computer in his '94 and he's constantly fussing with it.
The late model engine would allow me to use a late model bellhousing and transmission, which would provide a few mechanical and economical advantages including cable actuation instead of the mechanical, as well as no adaptors needed. If I do use an adaptor plate for the T-5, I still need to find a 5 bolt manual bellhousing and clutch pedal/linkage. The original style clutch linkage will be difficult to source in a complete, mechanically sound state, and according to what I've read has nowhere near as foot-friendly a feel as a modern clutch.
Everything needed for the modern V8/T-5 swap is readily available, while the Original engine/T-5 combination will need some time.
The current driveline runs well, so I'm in no rush. Currently, I'm leaning towards finding a good running 5.0 Fox/SN-05 with a five speed to cannibalize for the short-term powerplant.
The long-term project will be building a three hundred horse plus 289 stealth motor!
You've all been so much help. Thanks a million!
Brian
Do you have the export brace and monte carlo bar yet? I had to use a curved monte carlo bar, because the straight one would not clear my Pertornix distributor.
As for the subframe connectors, I went with these from CJ Pony. They are the bolt one ones, but have also been welded. It was said by numerous people that the bolt on ones fit better than the weld on ones. To me the look nearly the same. I can say that the ones I have fit great. If you do get them, just don't overtighten the front bolts and crush the subrame.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=SFC1
They work just fine, and my car is not a road race or drag race car anyway.
I like the idea of your 289 "stealth" motor. Thats cool. I have a 350 hp late model roller 302. I chose to stay carbed as well. I like the nostalgic part of it and its easier to work on.
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