Mustang read windows must be designed to leak!
I've been trying to get my rear window not to leak. 73 coupe. Not having much success. New rubber, clean all the metal bits before reassembly, leaks like crazy.
I have noticed a couple of things and am beginning to think that my efforts are in vain. In short, I think Ford designed the window to leak. Or, more likely, they figured they could do nothing to fix the design, so that added little mechanical structures to try and make sure that leaks went where they could do less harm.
For instance, the rear window rubber has an almost tube like structure at the bottom, on the inside, that appears to channel water to the two sides. Where these tubes dump water, is an opening that drops into the rear-quarter panels. Inside the quarter panels, and just visable on either side of the trunk (but you have to lean in a look up), are two weird looking flange things. The flanges, act as water diverters, making sure that water from the window above is channeled to the wheel well, instead of into the trunk. Then, each lower quarter panel has a little hole (or should) in which the water can escape.
There are other instances of drainage features in the front of the rear wheel wells, and along the doors. Generally, I always thought that these were in case water gets in. But, in reality, water always gets in.
Looking at my own problem, if the water would actually go into the truck, instead of down behind the rear seat, then I would have less of an issue (soggy carpets). Looking at the rubber tube, it looks like a bit of my head liner is blocking the end, which could cause water to run under the package tray, and behind the interior plastic, to the floor. I will attempt to make a path for the water to the quater panel instead.
Any other guesses, or wise knowledge?
Thanks,
John
I have noticed a couple of things and am beginning to think that my efforts are in vain. In short, I think Ford designed the window to leak. Or, more likely, they figured they could do nothing to fix the design, so that added little mechanical structures to try and make sure that leaks went where they could do less harm.
For instance, the rear window rubber has an almost tube like structure at the bottom, on the inside, that appears to channel water to the two sides. Where these tubes dump water, is an opening that drops into the rear-quarter panels. Inside the quarter panels, and just visable on either side of the trunk (but you have to lean in a look up), are two weird looking flange things. The flanges, act as water diverters, making sure that water from the window above is channeled to the wheel well, instead of into the trunk. Then, each lower quarter panel has a little hole (or should) in which the water can escape.
There are other instances of drainage features in the front of the rear wheel wells, and along the doors. Generally, I always thought that these were in case water gets in. But, in reality, water always gets in.
Looking at my own problem, if the water would actually go into the truck, instead of down behind the rear seat, then I would have less of an issue (soggy carpets). Looking at the rubber tube, it looks like a bit of my head liner is blocking the end, which could cause water to run under the package tray, and behind the interior plastic, to the floor. I will attempt to make a path for the water to the quater panel instead.
Any other guesses, or wise knowledge?
Thanks,
John
IIRC
when I did mine you have to use the rope trick to pull the rubber over the metal window frame So I applied one thin bead just away from the lip where the rubber fits over then set the rubber using the rope and someone to press on the glass.
Then from the outside I jammed the tip as far in as it could go between the rubber and the metal frame and injected it until it filled nearly the entire void and moved slowly downward filling to the same level all the way around.
-Gun
when I did mine you have to use the rope trick to pull the rubber over the metal window frame So I applied one thin bead just away from the lip where the rubber fits over then set the rubber using the rope and someone to press on the glass.
Then from the outside I jammed the tip as far in as it could go between the rubber and the metal frame and injected it until it filled nearly the entire void and moved slowly downward filling to the same level all the way around.
-Gun
Good luck actually finding anyone to do it right...they are out there but not common.
I have found that 99% of the time that if you want it done right...you do it!
Think about it... you now know more than any known auto shop about installing backglass in a classic mustang.
-Gun
I have found that 99% of the time that if you want it done right...you do it!
Think about it... you now know more than any known auto shop about installing backglass in a classic mustang.
-Gun


