351w header swap
So I own a 65 mustang with a 351w. The block is equipped with long tube headers that I am guessing are not meant for the swap. They are pinched pretty hard against the shock tower. Anyways, the header gaskets are shot and have been leaking exhaust which then goes into the car and make driving nearly impossible. What would be the best solution here?
1. Purchase new headers and gaskets that are meant for the swap? (is it possible to slip in new headers that are meant for the swap? Any clearance issues? Or does the block have to be pulled?)
2. Take to mechanic to have him replace the gaskets and re-install the old headers? It seems like the engine would have to be pulled in order to replace the old header gaskets.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
1. Purchase new headers and gaskets that are meant for the swap? (is it possible to slip in new headers that are meant for the swap? Any clearance issues? Or does the block have to be pulled?)
2. Take to mechanic to have him replace the gaskets and re-install the old headers? It seems like the engine would have to be pulled in order to replace the old header gaskets.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
I would find some headers that are meant for a 351 swap. I like JBA headers. I recommend Percy's seal for good gaskets. They are great. Here are some options. If you scroll down, there are some for 351W.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/key...351+headers+65
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/key...351+headers+65
Last edited by tx65coupe; Dec 8, 2009 at 05:56 PM.
When you are all done with whatever you decide to do, put a Monte Carlo bar on it if it doesn't already have one. Not saying that is your problem but I know the big block cars in 67 and 68 had problems with the heavy motor pulling the shock towers toward each other over time.
Actually, the instructions with my JBA headers said that the installation of a monte carlo bar was needed. I also recommend a 1 piece export brace. Since we are talking about chassis reinforcement, I would also suggest subframe connectors. You don't need the fancy ones, just the 100 dollars ones are good enough, unless you drive your car really hard.
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