This one says it's balanced internally. Am I missing something?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-47405BI/

 

I am running a pretty stout SBF on the street and have zero issues with my Eagle 4340 crank and H beam rods. Unless you are playing with really serious power close to 1000hp, I would not worry too much about the crank and rods. Eagle and Scat both make good stuff from what I have seen. The most important thing in my opinion is to use very good quality connecting hardware, like ARP, and install it correctly (measure bolt stretch and use molylube)! If you do that, either company's products are going to live well in your street engine.

 

That's a new one, I'll do some research and get back to you!

We have a windsor crank in a turbo car that's pushing over 2000 hp, the H-beams even with the L-19 bolt aren't rated for over 1500 and neither is the crank. They were running an aluminum rod and ran the whole season without breaking it!

 

Than why would anyone offer anything standard, crank or rods in billet ? I'll agree that the material itself is not different in strength. But there is a variance when the parts are forged into shapes with different thickness and cool at different rates which makes them susceptible to having their own problems. Something the billet avoids. I jut can't see so many people honestly choosing billet over forged for a 1500 hp engine when most run the same sizes you can get standard.
I don't think your stuff is junk and will probably be buying a set of crank and rods from ya for me car because it is proven.
How does your stuff rockwell compared to american 4340 ? I know a few chinese importers are as much as 30-40% weaker than the american counterpart.

 

ive got eagle crank/rods in my strictly 350 race motor ( cheby) no problems and everything looked great. motor runs amazing running 6k all day long..

 

On the C scale it comes in anywhere from 60-63 on any given 4340 crankshaft. VERY good steel, the steel itself actually doesn't come from China. Once you add in the nitrite process it makes for a very hard and resilient surface finish.

The reason it is offered is people pay it. I agree that that it can cool at different rates but I would argue the affects are marginal when it comes to structural integrity. It usually comes down to outlook, as some of our customers that use billet have put it to me "It's not that it's a better part, but if a customer cracks open a $50k motor and see's Eagle rods what reason does he need to pay that much/come to me to get it?" It is really a mind game, and I can understand where they are coming from when you compare a set of something like an Oliver to a set of our rods when it comes to price. That and the fact that although we are pretty good with our tolerances, a billet has no excuse not to be perfect from every angle because of the cost and time spent making it.

People move to a different type of billet steel past the 15-1700 hp mark or so, that is somewhat of a hybrid and aluminum rods typically because of weight. I can't tell you the material off the top of my head but it is something I could find out if need be.

Probably one of our #1 sellers, cast or steel?

 

So what part has to do with china ? You guys machine in house if I recall, right ?



I'm playing devils advocate a bit, but come on. You think a forging will go up to 1500 before it's time to switch steels ? Everyones forgings are rated to 7-800 HP. But people take them farther than that. I have seen your stuff personally go 1400rwhp. We were all waiting for it to go though. So the gap from 800-1500, no one wants to say it because then they are wanted to warranty it ? Or for 1500+, a forging with different steel then ? Again not knocking your stuff but what your are saying is contradictory to a lot of "known" things. So I'm a little confused on whether it's because you guys do or do not offer billet, or a sales pitch, or a conspiracy theory lol. I'm building a 1000 hp pump gas car and bought a shortblock that was supposed to have your stuff in it, but it doesn't. So I'm pissed, but the HP goals constantly move up as the build goes along right ? So I was looking into billet, from a local company, and if you find my location, you will see who.




Maybe they heard their stuff balances like ***. 5 holes in a counter balance or 200 bucks in mallory sucks. The guy I know cringes when he sees their stuff show up.

 

First of all, I hope you guys don't take this as a sales pitch. When it comes to billet that is a theory of mine, but let me further that later in this conversation.

Our castings and forgings are done in China, the rest is finished here and any machining is done in house right here in Southaven. Because of the percentage we do here, if we wanted to and as some competitors have done we could sell it as Made in the USA, we would rather be honest with our customer and if we lose some so be it.

We stand behind our cranks to our horsepower ratings which on our small block Ford is 1500. We have a lot of customers in the 8-1500 range, I'm not sure where this "known fact" is coming from? You've got to understand though that tuning and assembly plays a major role in this. It's after that point that the unknown comes into play, the two major players being how your making your power, RPM, and tuning.

A lot of my personal opinions are from the independent lab testing that the company I work for does, when you get down that deep it gets interesting!

You won't be un-satisfied with the company your looking at (assuming I found the right CPR) but depending on your power goals it may be more than is really necessary. Like I stated before though this also depends how your making your power, if it's a turbo the parts can be pushed well passed their ratings with a solid tune since it's so much less stressful on the crankshaft itself.

 

Hey how about getting a 347 kit with pistons that fit the Cleveland heads? Maybe a little dome so I can run my alky?

/hijack

 

why not drop a stroker kit in the mail for me and i will run an independent test myself.