stephen.osborne1

When I get home in a few weeks, I was thinking about upgrading my brakes with a power booster... I read the article on the FAQ page, but have some questions. The article used a 67. Mine is a 66, originally with 4-lug/drums. Someone has done a Granada 5 lug front disc conversion somewhere in my car's past. I don't plan to replace the calipers or anything yet. I just want to know which power booster I need and if I can reuse my dual bowl master cylinder and just add an proportioning valve?
Can I get a stock replacement power booster from a parts store that will just bolt in? From another car? The article showed having to replace the brake pedal... I don't want to do all that. At least not yet anyway.
Can I get away with just simply bolting a power booster in between the firewall and my mastercylinder, adding a proportioning valve, hooking up vaccum and bleeding the system? Anything else to it? If it makes a difference, I have a T-5 with a cable clutch setup.

2+2GT

Someone has done a Granada 5 lug front disc conversion somewhere in my car's past. I don't plan to replace the calipers or anything yet.
I don't really like the Granada conversion, but it works OK.

can [I] reuse my dual bowl master cylinder and just add an proportioning valve?
If there is no proportioning valve now, the car is unsafe. Park it until you have one.

Can I get a stock replacement power booster from a parts store that will just bolt in?
No. even if you find a replacement, it will not have the mounting bracket and pushrod.

From another car? The article showed having to replace the brake pedal... I don't want to do all that. At least not yet anyway.
64-66 power brake used the same pedal as standard, you don't need to change it.

Can I get away with just simply bolting a power booster in between the firewall and my mastercylinder, adding a proportioning valve, hooking up vaccum and bleeding the system?
The stock MC will not fit between the booster and the shock tower, so you'll need the whole assembly.

Anything else to it? If it makes a difference, I have a T-5 with a cable clutch setup.
No problem. Even the stock clutch will work with the right setup.

Just call Galzier Nolan or Master Power and get the kit. You'll also need a universal master cylinder line kit.

This is the booster you need. The "modern conversion" types are defective a distressing amount of the time, and in any case are too sensitive.

stephen.osborne1

Very cool, thanks. I do have a proportioning valve, what I meant was do I need a different one? Any idea how much that kit costs? What does it take to install? Simple replacement of the stock master cylinder and a vacuum line? seems almost too easy...

2+2GT

The proportioning valve is an inline valve between the rear brakes and the master cylinder, and, on front disc cars, limits (proportionately) the pressure to the rear brakes. Without it, the rear drum brakes will lock before the front disc brakes are even working, causing a vary unsafe driving condition. There are many types, that most common aftermarket valves look like this:

stephen.osborne1

Thank you, but I am well aware of what a proportioning valve is/what is does/looks like... The question was; Do I need a different one when I convert from manual to power brakes?
I've got that I need a new MC along with the power booster. If the proprtioning valve any different between the two?

2+2GT

No doubt you do, but this is a public conversation, and plenty of folks have no clue what the valve looks like or does.

The valve is on the business end of the hydraulic system, and would be the same, and if you already have it adjusted properly, even that won't change.

chockostang

Stephen,

Changing the pedal pertains to the 67 68 69 70 Mustangs when installing a Factory Midland, or Bendix booster.

On the 65 66, you won't change the pedal. No hassle there.

The Direct bolt on Booster/Master will require drilling 2 holes Then bolt, then using existing 2 holes old master came off of to bolt on DIRECT PUSH Booster.

Will fit in cavity perfectly.

The stock distribution block that came on that 6 cylinder car is excellent to add the booster with dual bowl braking.

All you need to do is remove the Rear Brake line from the distribution block, Plug the hole in the block, Attach Proportioning valve to that rear brake line, then run a short line from proportioning valve to FRONT port on Master.

Rear port on master goes the same port on distribution block that old single bowl master went to.


VERY, VERY easy.

Dan

www.chockostangclassicmustang.com

2+2GT

And the OE style is the way to go. I have seen too many of the "conversion" boosters yanked out and put aside, whether you're talking 64-66, or 67-70. The straight line no-lever/bracket 64-66, and the "no special pedal required" 67-70 are usually too sensitive, and 10-20% of them are outright defective. That's WAY too high.

stephen.osborne1

When whomever did the granada disc conversion, they also converted to a dual bowl MC... So I shouldn't have to worry about switching any lines around... Just hook them up to the new one, right? This means I'm good on my current proportioning valve as I take it. I am guessing you were thinking I still had the 6 CYL master Cyl...Not the case. I guess I should have specified.
Sounds pretty simple. Now I just have to find the stock setup...

2+2GT

Strangely, the 6 and 8 used the same master cylinders.

Glazier Nolan sells the MPB setup I linked. These are not hard to find, once you know what you're looking for.