Ignition Hop-Up
Hi Guys,
While my '64 D code hardtop is running better than ever, I'd like to see if I can make it a little more efficient. I've been accumulating toys to install durring the next couple of weeks:
1) a new original style early Mustang distributor, purchased from the fine folks at Glazier-Nolan. I opted to have the advance curves set by Dan Nolan.
2) A Pertronix Ignitor kit. (I tried to get a "II", but my local Mustang shop didn't have it. They tried to sell me on the III, but it had features that I already have on the MSD box.)
3) an MSD Digital 6 CD ignition Module.
4) a Sunn Tachometer
So, I'm toying with the idea to leave the points in the distributor, because I've read that once the MSD is in, the points should last almost forever. My buddy thinks I should install the pertronix from the get-go. I've got an Ignitor 1 in the car now, and I'm pretty happy with it. My plan is to keep the old distributor intact and handy, as a spare for troubleshooting later if I need it.
I also have questions about the rev-limitter; from what I've read, it's primarily to protect the engine in the event of driveline failure. Are their other things to consider when setting this feature?
I'll probably do this right before or right after Christmas. I'm leery of making too many changes at once, because if there are problems, I'd like to make them easier to identify. I'd like to hear your thoughts and advice on my parts selection and settings.
Thanks in Advance,
Brian
While my '64 D code hardtop is running better than ever, I'd like to see if I can make it a little more efficient. I've been accumulating toys to install durring the next couple of weeks:
1) a new original style early Mustang distributor, purchased from the fine folks at Glazier-Nolan. I opted to have the advance curves set by Dan Nolan.
2) A Pertronix Ignitor kit. (I tried to get a "II", but my local Mustang shop didn't have it. They tried to sell me on the III, but it had features that I already have on the MSD box.)
3) an MSD Digital 6 CD ignition Module.
4) a Sunn Tachometer
So, I'm toying with the idea to leave the points in the distributor, because I've read that once the MSD is in, the points should last almost forever. My buddy thinks I should install the pertronix from the get-go. I've got an Ignitor 1 in the car now, and I'm pretty happy with it. My plan is to keep the old distributor intact and handy, as a spare for troubleshooting later if I need it.
I also have questions about the rev-limitter; from what I've read, it's primarily to protect the engine in the event of driveline failure. Are their other things to consider when setting this feature?
I'll probably do this right before or right after Christmas. I'm leery of making too many changes at once, because if there are problems, I'd like to make them easier to identify. I'd like to hear your thoughts and advice on my parts selection and settings.
Thanks in Advance,
Brian
not that easy.
first thing we'll need to clarify if you bought #1 already. if you have, stick to it. get a dwell meter to check on dwell and remember the value for the next time you need to adjust points.
#2, #3, #4 is aftermarket. do you want to keep car original? if you don't care, then the following should apply
pertronix III is the same as P II with the addition of a rev limiter. the rev limiter only protects you from over-revving the engine. especially if you have manual shifter.
but !!!! pertronix I is already big difference to pertr II. pertr II has adaptive dwell, protection for coil burn with ignition on as well as (i believe) start retard (or did that come with the PIII model?)
anyway. the PIII is about 10 years of development after the PI
So if I understood your question correctly, you already have the Pertr I module in that glazier nolans distr. if that's the case, personally i'd just swap the P1 for P3. but then i don't understand why you talk about points. so what do you currently have?
first thing we'll need to clarify if you bought #1 already. if you have, stick to it. get a dwell meter to check on dwell and remember the value for the next time you need to adjust points.
#2, #3, #4 is aftermarket. do you want to keep car original? if you don't care, then the following should apply
pertronix III is the same as P II with the addition of a rev limiter. the rev limiter only protects you from over-revving the engine. especially if you have manual shifter.
but !!!! pertronix I is already big difference to pertr II. pertr II has adaptive dwell, protection for coil burn with ignition on as well as (i believe) start retard (or did that come with the PIII model?)
anyway. the PIII is about 10 years of development after the PI
So if I understood your question correctly, you already have the Pertr I module in that glazier nolans distr. if that's the case, personally i'd just swap the P1 for P3. but then i don't understand why you talk about points. so what do you currently have?
The main failing of ignition is the distributor curve gets out of adjustment, though years of neglect, or often "careful adjustment" by teenagers.
The stock distributor, properly adjusted, with Pertronix I, should be more than sufficient.
A Rev Limiter more often saved the engine when the driver missed a shift.
The stock distributor, properly adjusted, with Pertronix I, should be more than sufficient.
A Rev Limiter more often saved the engine when the driver missed a shift.
With the MSD box, the points are just acting as a voltage switch. They're not running any juice through them, so they won't burn up as they normally would.
The pertronix does the same thing, but with transistors instead of points. And it's just one more thing to fail (Pertronix Modules aren't really known for their long-term reliability). I wouldn't swap a Pertronix I for points if you're running a box. I don't know how variable-dwell affects the MSD box, though. You may want to call MSD about that.
If it were me, i'd return the Pertronix and run points and the box. That, or try to find a Crane electronic ignition conversion. I've heard lots of good things about those.
The pertronix does the same thing, but with transistors instead of points. And it's just one more thing to fail (Pertronix Modules aren't really known for their long-term reliability). I wouldn't swap a Pertronix I for points if you're running a box. I don't know how variable-dwell affects the MSD box, though. You may want to call MSD about that.
If it were me, i'd return the Pertronix and run points and the box. That, or try to find a Crane electronic ignition conversion. I've heard lots of good things about those.
The Pertronix will have no mechanical follower, and the dwell and timing will never change.
Take your choice.
Once I was driving down the road, in a bad area, and my car died. After about a half hour, I discovered one of the cam followers had broken off. I separated the points with a matchbook cover, and drove home on only one set of points. Can't do that when your Pertronix or MSD dies.
No, but the cam follower will wear, changing the dwell and initial timing.
The Pertronix will have no mechanical follower, and the dwell and timing will never change.
Take your choice.
Once I was driving down the road, in a bad area, and my car died. After about a half hour, I discovered one of the cam followers had broken off. I separated the points with a matchbook cover, and drove home on only one set of points. Can't do that when your Pertronix or MSD dies.
The Pertronix will have no mechanical follower, and the dwell and timing will never change.
Take your choice.
Once I was driving down the road, in a bad area, and my car died. After about a half hour, I discovered one of the cam followers had broken off. I separated the points with a matchbook cover, and drove home on only one set of points. Can't do that when your Pertronix or MSD dies.
- cam follower
- burning up
- humps in distributor wearing
all leading to have the dwell readjusted every now and then.
The fact that you can 'burn up' the coil (happened two 2 friends of mine) with leaving ignition in 'on' position.
The advantage of the ignitor III remove all that, plus dwell is adaptive, plus revlimiter (even if I believe it's a wonky one which stops spark on always the same cylinder(s))
makes me want to go for electronic.
But yes. It's _hugely_ a matter of taste. Some people have no talent for roadside repairs (i fixed a free moving distributor baseplate once with a little branch I broke of a bush so I could get home), might as well go electronic then ...
Kalli
Hello Again,
Thanks for your suggestions so far. I suppose I should clarify. I bought the distributor from G-N , because I really wanted to get mine "recurved" but it didn't make sense for me to pull it and ship it out. It was more convenient to buy one from them and have the advance curves properly adjusted from the start. I'm glad I did it this way, because Dan found that the vacuum advance was faulty and replaced it.
My first thought was to run it with the points that are in it. I'm guessing that the point dwell is probably set as well.
The distributor that's in the car now is a PO replacement (no oil wick) so I wasn't too worried about originality. I have an Ignitor I in it now, along with a Dura Spark Cap/adaptor and the car runs great.
The MSD Digital 6 is something I've wanted to try for some time. From what I've read, I should get a more complete combustion (which leads me to believe) should translate into better fuel efficiency and more power.
I'm just unsure about whether I should make a day out of it and do it all at once, or do it a step at a time. If I do it one step at a time, I'm thinking to install the Pertronix into the distributor on the workbench and then install the distributor in the car.
My balancer is a Professional Products unit with three sets of marked degrees. I'm considering marking two of them with one and two dots, so when I'm checking the initial timing of the old set up, I don't inadvertently pick the wrong set after I install the new distributor. Am I making this too big of a deal? If I line up the rotor where the old one was, will I be close enough to the old distributor's initial timing that marking the balancer will be redundant?
Thanks Again,
Brian
Thanks for your suggestions so far. I suppose I should clarify. I bought the distributor from G-N , because I really wanted to get mine "recurved" but it didn't make sense for me to pull it and ship it out. It was more convenient to buy one from them and have the advance curves properly adjusted from the start. I'm glad I did it this way, because Dan found that the vacuum advance was faulty and replaced it.
My first thought was to run it with the points that are in it. I'm guessing that the point dwell is probably set as well.
The distributor that's in the car now is a PO replacement (no oil wick) so I wasn't too worried about originality. I have an Ignitor I in it now, along with a Dura Spark Cap/adaptor and the car runs great.
The MSD Digital 6 is something I've wanted to try for some time. From what I've read, I should get a more complete combustion (which leads me to believe) should translate into better fuel efficiency and more power.
I'm just unsure about whether I should make a day out of it and do it all at once, or do it a step at a time. If I do it one step at a time, I'm thinking to install the Pertronix into the distributor on the workbench and then install the distributor in the car.
My balancer is a Professional Products unit with three sets of marked degrees. I'm considering marking two of them with one and two dots, so when I'm checking the initial timing of the old set up, I don't inadvertently pick the wrong set after I install the new distributor. Am I making this too big of a deal? If I line up the rotor where the old one was, will I be close enough to the old distributor's initial timing that marking the balancer will be redundant?
Thanks Again,
Brian
If you are using an MSD box the point dwell is irrelevant.
When using points with a MSD box, the wearing of the cam follower or humps in distributor will change the timing a little but that is the only issue.
MSD boxes provide a preset pulse to the coil primary therefor the actual dwell of the points or Pertronix is of no use.
Pertronix with variable dwell with MSD box is also of no use.
Also Pertronix can't burn up a coil when using an MSD box.
There are more good reasons to invest in a CDI box of about any name brand manufacture.
Pertronix 1 or Mallory or whatever and a CDI box and a decent coil is a great start in addition to the new distributor.
Get some good plug wires, open the plug gap to 45 and you are in business.
When using points with a MSD box, the wearing of the cam follower or humps in distributor will change the timing a little but that is the only issue.
MSD boxes provide a preset pulse to the coil primary therefor the actual dwell of the points or Pertronix is of no use.
Pertronix with variable dwell with MSD box is also of no use.
Also Pertronix can't burn up a coil when using an MSD box.
There are more good reasons to invest in a CDI box of about any name brand manufacture.
Pertronix 1 or Mallory or whatever and a CDI box and a decent coil is a great start in addition to the new distributor.
Get some good plug wires, open the plug gap to 45 and you are in business.


