Headliner Wrinkle Woes
I'm about to pull what's left of my hair out.
I'm doing a ground-up restoration of a 67 Coupe. There is little I haven't been able to handle but I've met my match installing a wrinkle-free headliner. Three different books (including motors manual) and three different ways to install. I've finally settled on middle out (starting with bows 2 & 3 and working toward front, back, and sides). Wrinkles remain.
It's 40 degrees in my garage (winter in Boise) which doesn't help, but there has to be a way to do this. Motors manual speaks of steaming an installed headliner to "shrink" the wrinkles out. Anyone had luck with that (or other suggestions)?
I'm doing a ground-up restoration of a 67 Coupe. There is little I haven't been able to handle but I've met my match installing a wrinkle-free headliner. Three different books (including motors manual) and three different ways to install. I've finally settled on middle out (starting with bows 2 & 3 and working toward front, back, and sides). Wrinkles remain.
It's 40 degrees in my garage (winter in Boise) which doesn't help, but there has to be a way to do this. Motors manual speaks of steaming an installed headliner to "shrink" the wrinkles out. Anyone had luck with that (or other suggestions)?
Are you doing it with the windshield out? My understanding from the top shops is that, thats the way you're supposed to install them, for no wrinkles.
Also think I remember an article on Mustang Monthly's site with pictures.
Its probably worth a look.
Good Luck
Also think I remember an article on Mustang Monthly's site with pictures.
Its probably worth a look.
Good Luck
I did mine with my buddy who does upholstry for a living and we did center front and rear first and then worked the rear outwards left and right from center using clips and glue. then front the same way with contact. Then did the sides which were held in with the windlace and contact. And then I let it sit out in the parking lot on hot days with the windows rolled up. Ive got only about 3 small wrinkles in the bends at the top of the rear window.
Make sure you have the two little wires that hold the rear most bow from moving forward installed. If they are not in it will be a nightmare. Once those are in you start stretching from the front. The stretch from the sides making sure the headliner is pretty much centered. Get all of that done, glued and inplace and then move to the back. Stretch it rearward while working the aprons in the back. Healiners suck.
Make sure you have the two little wires that hold the rear most bow from moving forward installed. If they are not in it will be a nightmare. Once those are in you start stretching from the front. The stretch from the sides making sure the headliner is pretty much centered. Get all of that done, glued and inplace and then move to the back. Stretch it rearward while working the aprons in the back. Healiners suck.
Last edited by 2+2GT; Jan 21, 2010 at 05:54 AM.
They were color coded at the factory, but if that is no longer visible, just install them bare until it's obvious they are in the right place, mark them, and slide them into the headliner.
I installed mine on a day that was about 90 degrees.. gotta love Mississippi.. I started mine in the center.. worked to the rear.. tugged and tugged and tugged.. then did the front. Then she sat out side for two days with the windows up in 90 degree weather. I had some pretty bad wrinkles that came out eventually and now I can hardly notice them.
Great responses all, thanks.
Process I'm using is similar... back pins in place and stretch forward. Working sides next, out from the middle. I pulled my glue seams out front and back because too many wrinkles... will be redoing that again this weekend. Friend lent me a clothing steamer so will try that when all is glued. No 90 degree weather in Idaho this time of year.
Mortman, I can answer your bow question (assuming your 68 is the same as my 67). Mine still had factory paint so it was easier. Bow 1 (near windshield) has no paint, 2 is red, 3 is white, 4 is blue (cute, I know). If paint is gone, 1 and 2 are exactly the same size but 2 has a flat top. 3 has a slightly longer extension than 2 (and is also flat on top). 4 is easiest to recognize because it has the longest downward extensions.
As for holes, factory gave installers choices. Default choice is the hole closest to the roof (to give maximum headroom). I took pix of mine when I disassembled and the lowest hole was used for all. When I went to install, given that I had put up 1/2" insulator pad, I was forced to use the same lowest holes.
Wrinkles I haven't solved yet but I hope that helps you get your bows straight. T
Process I'm using is similar... back pins in place and stretch forward. Working sides next, out from the middle. I pulled my glue seams out front and back because too many wrinkles... will be redoing that again this weekend. Friend lent me a clothing steamer so will try that when all is glued. No 90 degree weather in Idaho this time of year.

Mortman, I can answer your bow question (assuming your 68 is the same as my 67). Mine still had factory paint so it was easier. Bow 1 (near windshield) has no paint, 2 is red, 3 is white, 4 is blue (cute, I know). If paint is gone, 1 and 2 are exactly the same size but 2 has a flat top. 3 has a slightly longer extension than 2 (and is also flat on top). 4 is easiest to recognize because it has the longest downward extensions.
As for holes, factory gave installers choices. Default choice is the hole closest to the roof (to give maximum headroom). I took pix of mine when I disassembled and the lowest hole was used for all. When I went to install, given that I had put up 1/2" insulator pad, I was forced to use the same lowest holes.
Wrinkles I haven't solved yet but I hope that helps you get your bows straight. T


