Here is a picture from MustangSteve's GRANADA swap page. I'm using the CSRP swap, so it's nearly the same, at least for this question.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/HoseRoutingAlternate.jpg

There is a bracket right in the center of this picture (driver's side) that connects the steel brake line to the rubber brake line.

I have the bracket to do this, as well as the "extender" hard brake line. I guess I would drill a hole into the frame rail and attach this bracket to it? There is also a small "tab" at the end of the bracket. It somehow slips into ... something...

Any advice?

Thanks,

 

Hey Steven,
Just take the bracket and locate it approximately like the attach point shown in Steve's pic. Then drill a hole in the frame and attach. you can drill a smaller hole farther back for the tab to sit in, that will keep it from twisting. Here's how I did mine years ago. I thought it put the hose in a better position. Now, I don't think it really matters.

 

Or, for about 10 bucks, you can buy tabs that you can rivet to the frame to hold the line.
From Speedway Motors
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Remova...Tabs,4854.html

 

I tried the original location but it made the hose tight when it was turned fully. I bought a straight section of pre made tubing (24 inch if I remember right) and a coupling to join it to the existing line. I drilled new holes for the the bracket and mounted in on the front side. I bent the lines to follow the frame rail.

There pictures of my CSRP swap on my site: http://chris66dad.tripod.com/id12.html

 

I see how the brake line are routed in both the pictures above and wonder how you get all the air out of the line when the hard line is routed up and then down and forms a loop. It seems that air would get trapped in the hard line at that loop. You won't find factory line routed like that. A factory line will always always go lower and lower as you get closer to the wheel and the connection to the flex line will be horizontal not verticle. Any trouble getting the brakes bled on those cars?

 

This is how the rear line was routed on factory 64-66 dual exhaust cars, and I've never had any trouble bleeding them.

 

Makes sense, although there are several instances where factory brakelines do run uphill. Seems to work tho.

 

I used the 1 man bleeder that sucks the fluid through the line. I had no problems getting all of the air out.
Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron

 

A high point in the brake line is not relevant. The routing does not matter in a closed pressurized system. The flow will sweep out any air as long as the delivered pressure is larger than the head pressure (the back pressure due to resistance and gravity).

 

Thanks JamesW and others. Got the lines up there to visualize how it would work and it looks good.

BTW, surprised you remembered me James, it's been probably 2 years, lol. Good to see ya