Weights in distributor
The weights were the same in most distributors, the springs vary, and of course can be adjusted. Adjusting these distributors is best done in a distributor machine. I've done this, and they are always wrong, and need adjustment to get proper power and performance.
http://www.bob2000.com/dist.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ng/index.shtml
http://www.bob2000.com/dist.htm
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ng/index.shtml
2+2 is exactly correct. There's no need to fool with the weights, just tune it with the springs. Also, on the shaft there are two notches that can be used for the advance range. You can reassemble to use a different range notch if you need to.
2+2 is also absolutely correct about using a distributor machine. In the early seventies I funded my way through college with the GI Bill and a Sun Distributor machine. I ran an untold number of distributors at $10 each. Doesn't sound like much money, but that was in the days of $20 per semester hour tuition and $30 text books.
If you know what you're doing and have a timing tape on the harmonic balancer and a tachometer, you can set up an advance curve on the car. With a Chevy this is much more practical to do because the weights and springs are on the very top, under the rotor. On a Ford, however, it is necessary to go much deeper into the distributor to change springs or weights, or the advance range notch.
I don't know how hard it would be to find anyone with a distributor machine these days, but if you can find one, it would be worth seeking out.
If you're using a points distributor for some reason, there are other advantages to a distributor machine. You can see spark scatter, or a bad set of points on a distributor machine which is impossible to see with the distributor on the car.
I regret getting rid of my distributor machine in spite of the fact that it's uses are limited today.
2+2 is also absolutely correct about using a distributor machine. In the early seventies I funded my way through college with the GI Bill and a Sun Distributor machine. I ran an untold number of distributors at $10 each. Doesn't sound like much money, but that was in the days of $20 per semester hour tuition and $30 text books.
If you know what you're doing and have a timing tape on the harmonic balancer and a tachometer, you can set up an advance curve on the car. With a Chevy this is much more practical to do because the weights and springs are on the very top, under the rotor. On a Ford, however, it is necessary to go much deeper into the distributor to change springs or weights, or the advance range notch.
I don't know how hard it would be to find anyone with a distributor machine these days, but if you can find one, it would be worth seeking out.
If you're using a points distributor for some reason, there are other advantages to a distributor machine. You can see spark scatter, or a bad set of points on a distributor machine which is impossible to see with the distributor on the car.
I regret getting rid of my distributor machine in spite of the fact that it's uses are limited today.
2+2 i read that exact article (first one u posted) and since i have 13L and 18L, wouldn't the 18L be high since since 18*2=36. That'd mean my initial timing should be at 0. Shouldn't i have a 10L and 15L or something like that? That's why i'm wondering if 13L and 18L are the right weights.
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bradleyb
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
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Nov 27, 2015 07:50 PM




