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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #1  
KoolAidMan888's Avatar
KoolAidMan888
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Default Welding ?

If i use a smaller flux core wire will this help with the heat? im using .025 i think and its blowing through the metal ,i think .03 would be a little better i think im putting the gauges right
:icon _confused:
Old Mar 29, 2010 | 09:28 PM
  #2  
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Man can I ever relate to where you are at!
Just to *hopefully* clear a couple of things up for you:

1). welding wire is based on actual "thickness" not a wire gauge number

So, 0.025" wire is thinner than 0.030" wire, because it's thickness in inches.

2). Thicker wire requires more heat. so your 0.025" wire would be a better choice.

3). Flux core wire requires more heat than solid core wire.

Now if you're a seasoned pro, you grab whatever is in your gun, and weld away on the panel while watching "Ultimate Cage Fighting Championships", and never even get a warp.
However, it sounds like you and I are in the same league of lower abilities when it comes to welding sheet metal.
First I have to tell you up front, I suck at welding thin stuff. That said, here are my "cheats", that have allowed me to accomplish this task with the minimum amount of destruction. Hopefully some other skilled guys will jump in with some good advice. This is what works for me:

** Solid core wire and Argon/CO2 bottle.
OMG! This was night and day. Solid core melts at a lower temperature, which means I have more time to form a puddle while my eyes adjust before I burn through.

** For body sheet metal I use 0.023" wire. I focus real hard at keeping the gun as close to perpendicular to the weld line as possible, and have the wire speed set to keep about 1/4" to 3/8" out from the tip.

** C54 Miracle Dip. It's like this wax stuff that I dip the hot tip of the gun in to. It keeps the wire from sticking in the tip.

** I bought a 4'x6' piece of 16 gauge sheet metal to warm up on. If I'm welding vertical, I cut a couple of pieces and mock them up the same way, then start practicing. Get my helmet set right, get my tounge set right, get my eyes working, and when I start getting some good beads, I'll move over to the real project.

** I got a piece of 3/4" copper pipe, and squished one end completely for about 3". then the last 1/2" is bent on about a 45* angle. When ever possible, I use this behind th pieces I'm welding. It sucks the heat out of the body panels, and makes me look way better than I really am.

In the end, I'm still a hack. Just about the time I get comfortable, the project is done, and I don't do any more thin steel welding for 6 months or a year, so I'm constantly re-learning. Because of this. When I have something real important, I call in a professional. Then I bask in his (or her) awesomeness, and give them a big tip, for actually taking a job on a car.

Good luck amigo!
Old Mar 29, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #3  
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if at all possible, convert to gas. you will not regret it.
Old Mar 29, 2010 | 10:25 PM
  #4  
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I feel your pain too. I'm using .035 wire. It just takes a moment or two to get it right.
Old Mar 29, 2010 | 10:32 PM
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Also try backing up the spot you are welding with a copper or brass heat sink clamped to your work piece if possible. That will help a lot with burn through.
And convert to solid wire with a gas shield like the others have said. it will make for a cleaner weld too.
Bruce
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:19 AM
  #6  
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don't try to run a bead with sheet metal; stitch weld it. once you get up into 14 gauge or so, you can start running beads.
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jcoby
don't try to run a bead with sheet metal; stitch weld it. once you get up into 14 gauge or so, you can start running beads.
This is key. Pros can buttweld 18-20 ga so that the final result looks like it was never damaged.



Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #8  
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Even with gas, it is not practical to lay down more than about a 3/8" long bead on VERY CLEAN steel.

If the metal you are trying to weld looks like it is in "borderline" condition, step back a little further into better steel, (when possible). Dirty, or rusty, or porous, or even work-hardened sheetmetal will almost always blow out making you question you ability.

Start with sound clean metal and then work in spots, let it cool briefly, like you are laying tiny dimes one on another until you seal the seam.
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #9  
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I would never DREAM of using flux core on body sheet metal. The mess will never get removed well enough.

Use gas and don't even run a 3/8" long bead. Use tiny little welds that are not much more than quick tacks. Bounce around when making these tacks so that you let it cool before you go back near it. This will prevent warping.

The gas will let you lay one weld over another without having to spend ten minutes cleaning up the flux mess.
Old Mar 30, 2010 | 01:38 PM
  #10  
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WHoaaaa Sweet.. Thanks for the Comments..


ok Soo basicly DONT USE FLUXCORE.


will the Sold wire keep a good puddle?


I started welding with the fluxcore yesterday and i got *issed off. It just wasn't working.. I'm not a pro.. I'm if anything a rookie.. But i no a good weld from a bad but with everything i tried yesterday i just wasn't able to get a good puddle and its was a pain. NO weld i did yesterday came out good i ended up just welding along the side of the piece. and this was the only thing that was working. I have a roll of .025 solid wire so i will try it,


THANK YOU GUYS

Vinnie



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