Steering wheel lock/keyswitch/transmission
A few weeks ago i statred up the Mach and when I went to shut her down the key switch wouldn't turn off the car. At first I figured the key cylinder was broken, even though its not that old. Then I read somewhere that drag strips make those of us with cars that have the factory locking steering wheel system, remove the rod linkage that connects from the steering shaft to the transmission. This prevents any possible way of locking the steering while racing. I don't know if this is true or urban legend, but it made me look under my hood anfd find the linkage. I also read that if you turn the "collar" it allows keys that are "stuck" in the key cylinder to be removed. I figured that maybe this linkage had something to do with the key not shutting down the car, because the linkage was preventing the wheel to "lock" so the engine kept running. Yesterday I played around with this collar and was able to get the car to shut off by the key. However, once when I started the car I noticed none of the gauges were operating. I manipulated the key a tad and I watched the gauges come to life. So, has anyone out there been through something like this before? The Mach is a 70 automatic, and there is some "slop" in the shifter that sometimes keeps the shift button from popping out without some wiggling. Think its the key switch or the steering lock acutator rod?
Power for the guages comes from the ignition switch so that could be your problem. These switches are getting harder to come by. To replace it you have to remove the plastic collar between the steering wheel column and the dash. This can be a challenge some times. There is a 'U' shaped metal channel that holds the end pieces of this collar to the column. Look at the bottom of the collar and you will see the split where the collar comes together. You have to pull out the two ends pieces of the collar from the metal channel and you will have access to the switch. Finding a new replacement switch for a '70 is also a challenge. A '71 or '72 switch is physicall the same (and available for about $75) but the connector plug is different. When I replaced my ignition switch I just cut and spliced the old switch's plug and wires to a new '71 (or '72) replacement switch. I hope this helps.
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