pertronix question
so i'm thinking about ditching the points on my '66 coupe, which is a daily driver, in favor of a pertronix unit and i can't decide whether or not to get the ignitor or ignitor 2. I'll be pairing it with the corresponding flamethrower coil. what is everyone's opinion and what would be the best for my application. Thanks everyone
is that the only difference? I was under the impression that all of the ignitor products run on a 12v source even if you can get away with a lower voltage on the basic ignitor. I was wondering what kind of voltage does the coil want to see would i need to run 12v to a flamethrower coil like i would an ignitor 2 or would i be able to get away with hooking up the resistor wire to the coil and run 12v to the ignitor, that being the case it makes more sense to just get the ignitor 2 if i'm going to run a new wire anyway. i don't mind running a new wire or two. i'm pretty good with a soldering iron and i fix all the audio gear at the venue i work at
the pertronix II has a few additions why it must be recommended over the I
at least:
a) adaptive dwell (petronix I doesn't have that)
b) protection agains coil burnout in case you leave ignition switch in 'on' position
the only modification you need to make when installing pertronix II is to bypass the resistor wire under dash. It's as simple as clamping a parallel wire to it at start and end. As simple as that. pulling the dash out and putting it back in takes less than half hour.
The resistor wire is connected with a quick disconnect at ignition switch. There's a black/green cable (i think) about 2 inch long. that ends in a quick disconnect. from there on the wire is pink. clamp a cable into it and clamp it again at the end near firewall. resistor bypassed, modification reversible
at least:
a) adaptive dwell (petronix I doesn't have that)
b) protection agains coil burnout in case you leave ignition switch in 'on' position
the only modification you need to make when installing pertronix II is to bypass the resistor wire under dash. It's as simple as clamping a parallel wire to it at start and end. As simple as that. pulling the dash out and putting it back in takes less than half hour.
The resistor wire is connected with a quick disconnect at ignition switch. There's a black/green cable (i think) about 2 inch long. that ends in a quick disconnect. from there on the wire is pink. clamp a cable into it and clamp it again at the end near firewall. resistor bypassed, modification reversible
The Pertronix Ignitor (I) also requires bypassing the resistor wire, but it can be used with a stock (or std. replacement) ignition coil, so it can look a little more stock.
I used it on my 66 and it's the best upgrade I've made. You won't regret it one bit.
I used it on my 66 and it's the best upgrade I've made. You won't regret it one bit.
Every time I picture someone running a new wire beside the resistor wire, I think how I'd rather use the resistor wire to just power up an added relay. The relay can be installed where ever it suits you, guarantee a hot 12 volts at the coil with the right power source with no loss through a 45 year old ignition switch, etc. It's just another way of doing things and offers a choice in how to power the ignition.
by running a relay here, I'm guessing you mean a wire direct from the battery to an on/off switch in the dash then out to the coil / pertronix? If you did that what size fuse would you use to ensure there is not crazy power surge that fries it all???
first of all you need a relay that already switches power at ~8V, then with the usual 4connector relays, hook up battery plus and minus, another one hooks up to ignition switch wire and the 4th to where you want that 12V. definetly an option.


