yet another ford SB overheating issue :)
#1
yet another ford SB overheating issue :)
hiya, i recently got ahold of a decent 67 coupe, 302 2v ( maybe ) no real documentation and i doubt seriously its original...runs fairly strong but serious overheating issues. looks like it has the stock cast iron water pump, old iron/copper rad basic hoses ect.. gonna make it a weekend warrior for now but strong ideas about a daily driver. any help opinions or ideas would be most appreciated. thanks
#3
How do you know it has overheating issues? Is it puking out the overflow (if it has one)? Or does the gauge just read high. The stock gauges are notoriously inaccurate. A non-contact infrared thermometer or mechanical gauge will give you an accurate temp reading.
#4
yes screaming out the overflow tube, attached to rad cap, after about 45 mins of 60 mph, going through about 3 gallons of rad fluid in a 120 mile trip and last but not least engine simply turning off.
and lets not forget the total lack of a working temp gauge.
and no it doesnt have an actual overflow tank, just a tube that runs out and down to bottom of radiator.
thanks for the info
and lets not forget the total lack of a working temp gauge.
and no it doesnt have an actual overflow tank, just a tube that runs out and down to bottom of radiator.
thanks for the info
#5
OK, the head gasket is a good place to start IF the heads have been off recently.
The water pump has very little effect on cooling. Really.
I have a 289HP with air conditioning and an aftermarket brass 3-row radiator. No problem.
Get a 3-row brass radiator, fan shroud, 6-blade thermal clutch fan, genuine Ford 190° thermostat, and for that last 10% of cooling efficiency, a manual shutoff valve in the heater hose from the intake manifold to the firewall.
Oh, and fix that gauge.
BTW, no 64-73 Mustang ever had a radiator overflow tank.
The water pump has very little effect on cooling. Really.
I have a 289HP with air conditioning and an aftermarket brass 3-row radiator. No problem.
Get a 3-row brass radiator, fan shroud, 6-blade thermal clutch fan, genuine Ford 190° thermostat, and for that last 10% of cooling efficiency, a manual shutoff valve in the heater hose from the intake manifold to the firewall.
Oh, and fix that gauge.
BTW, no 64-73 Mustang ever had a radiator overflow tank.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 04-25-2010 at 06:05 PM.
#6
The engine is not original. It should have a 289, Flush out your Radiator, change the water pump, an the hoses along with a fail safe thermostat, put a shroud and make sure the fan blade is'nt to close to the radiator
and some Kool it to the new antifreze and go from there
and some Kool it to the new antifreze and go from there
#7
I have to ask how the water pump could help. If the engine is running, the impeller will be spinning, circulating the coolant. If the pump is shot, it may leak, and the bearing may rumble, but the impeller is still spinning at exactly the same speed, circulating the coolant.
#8
great info guys thanks alot, 2+2gt i will follo wyour advice and look at replacing the parts u said.
p.s dont think it has a heater unit, i was up under the dash earlier and it was pretty bare. ill post some pics later just fyi.
thanks again for the help ! is much appreciated, and why a brass 3 core vs. a alum 3 core ? just curious...
p.s dont think it has a heater unit, i was up under the dash earlier and it was pretty bare. ill post some pics later just fyi.
thanks again for the help ! is much appreciated, and why a brass 3 core vs. a alum 3 core ? just curious...