Mallory 6al not working need help
#1
Mallory 6al not working need help
Well car starts 1st try everytime with pertronix and blaster 2 coil. I install Mallory 6al and getting no spark at all. I have big red to pos batt, big black to neg batt, small red from box to red on pertronix and ignition wire, white from box to black from pertronix, black and orange from box to neg and pos to coil. NO SPARK at all. When i go back to no box works fine, with box no spark. Could the box be bad or did i do something wrong? Thanks for all help....
#4
the wiring is ok. make sure you have nothing else on the coil. only orange and black of box go there.
then as you say the white one to black of pertronix and the small red connects to: ignition+, red of pertronix
from your description it's exactly like you have it.
You can check with a voltmeter if you have 12V+ at big and small red, ground on the big black
Since you have the pertronix I module i assume you still have that resistor wire under the dash. you will know when you get around 8V at the small red with ignition on (instead of 12). That might not be enough for the mallory box.
you can always do a quick test and connect mallory small red wire directly to 12V+ only that one, not ignition+ and pertronix !!!DO NOT DRIVE LIKE THAT!!! if that works then you found the problem
but the pertronix doesn't allow 12V i believe. so if that works you might have to get the pertronix II and bypass the resistor wire
to check the box itself you can disconnect the white wire from pertronix and just tap it against ground. whenever you disconnect from ground you should get a spark (all this with engine not running, ignition in 'on' position
then as you say the white one to black of pertronix and the small red connects to: ignition+, red of pertronix
from your description it's exactly like you have it.
You can check with a voltmeter if you have 12V+ at big and small red, ground on the big black
Since you have the pertronix I module i assume you still have that resistor wire under the dash. you will know when you get around 8V at the small red with ignition on (instead of 12). That might not be enough for the mallory box.
you can always do a quick test and connect mallory small red wire directly to 12V+ only that one, not ignition+ and pertronix !!!DO NOT DRIVE LIKE THAT!!! if that works then you found the problem
but the pertronix doesn't allow 12V i believe. so if that works you might have to get the pertronix II and bypass the resistor wire
to check the box itself you can disconnect the white wire from pertronix and just tap it against ground. whenever you disconnect from ground you should get a spark (all this with engine not running, ignition in 'on' position
Last edited by kalli; 05-02-2010 at 06:07 PM.
#6
Okay I don't have a volt meter, but do have light bulb continuity checker. So disconnected white wire with ignition to on switch light bulb lit up connected to white wire. Then disconnected red wire from box connected to battery turn ignition to on and grounded white wire and light came on. So I am getting power to the white wire, but that doesn't tell me if the voltage is correct. So off of what you said I will go get one tomm and check for voltage. I'm guessing if its not 12V coming from the ignition wire to the box then I will run a wire directly from the ingition switch and connect that to the pertronix red and box red wire. Thanks for all the help. At least I guess the current is going through the box, so thats good.
#7
This of off of mallory performance website. Says 8-16 Volts for operation. I guess 12 is better than 8, but maybe I'm not even getting that much. Will buy volt meter tomm and try that first.
Mallory #6853M HYFIRE 6-AL Product Feature
Single Stage- No Chips Required Rev Limiting
520 Primary Output Voltage
45,000 Secondary Voltage Output
135 mJ Spark Energy
.6 Amps Current Draw Per 1,000 RPM
8-16 Operating Voltage Required
Mallory #6853M HYFIRE 6-AL Product Feature
Single Stage- No Chips Required Rev Limiting
520 Primary Output Voltage
45,000 Secondary Voltage Output
135 mJ Spark Energy
.6 Amps Current Draw Per 1,000 RPM
8-16 Operating Voltage Required
#8
Cars operate on a 12v system, they're typically 14.something when the alternator is running and if the battery is low and you're running with a dead alternator, it will run at 9-10 volts or thereabouts. That just means that it needs 8-16 volts for normal operation. If you had less than 8 or more than 16 you'd know....either crap wouldn't run(dim or no lights) or your wires would be smoking.
And sounds like it's wired wrong or you need something else to make them work together, I'd call Pertronix or Mallory and see what they say, since I'm not sure how to wire it to a Pertronix dizzy unit.
And sounds like it's wired wrong or you need something else to make them work together, I'd call Pertronix or Mallory and see what they say, since I'm not sure how to wire it to a Pertronix dizzy unit.
#9
the wiring should be ok. had one of those boxes and i'm quite sure at some stage i had it up with my pertronix II as well (instead of mallory). with a bulb you cannot test how much voltage you're getting. the white wire is only a trigger wire. the distributor will cause it to switch to ground or disconnect from ground, so it's random if you have ground on white. just disconnect the white wire from distributor and hold the white wire to ground, once you disconnect the box should fire (trigger the coil). you can disconnect the plugwire at the middle of coil and hold that close to ground (with a proper electrical plyers) and then check. you should see a spark.
as 67m302 says Mallory can confirm tests and wiring, but you'll find this troubleshooting step in the mallory manuals as well.
as 67m302 says Mallory can confirm tests and wiring, but you'll find this troubleshooting step in the mallory manuals as well.
#10
Well it works now....... I picked up a volt meter and checked voltage to the ignition wire and was getting 11.80 volts. Then I checked the red wire going to the Pos side of the battery from the box where I had to add a connector and some more wire for it to reach. I was getting only about 7 volts there, so disconnected it from the battery put new connectors in and got about 12.2 volts.... BUT still wouldn't turn over..... So I then disconnected the white wire and put it to ground and sparked the coil wire..... There was PLENTY of spark.... So i reconnected everything and poof gremlin must have been scared of the spark cause now it is running like a champ. I adjusted the timing by ear till it idles smooth again. I have a timing light, but have no marks anywhere on balancer just a red line that I can never see with the timing light. So I played it by ear. Once i get the interior back together I'll take it out and bring my half inch with me and adjust timing as I go......... thanks to all for the help. The gremlin is loose though, so be on the watch......
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