Shelby drop + Endlink issue
Hi Guys,
hopefully you guys can help me out here!
I did the Shelbydrop on my 68'er.
I've read that I need a different wheel alignment then stock.
My caster is +3.25 degree. I also have a 1" swaybar installed, including new endlinks.
Driving for a few weeks now, everything feels ok.
But when I checked underneath, I saw that my endlinks were bent! At the top of the metal tube, where the swaybarbushing are, the endlinks are both bent the same way.
I found out that my old endlinks bolts are shorter, and thicker then the new bent ones. Also the metal tube is shorter then the new ones...
Also I saw that the endlinks are not vertical aligned. The top of the endlinks point to the back of the car. This is because the holes of the lower control arm and the swaybar are not vertical aligned, but the lower controler arm sits more to the front of the car. I think this is caused by the +3.24 degrees caster?
Has anybody experienced this issue with the shelby drop?
I've put back the original swaybar + endlinks, and it sits a bit better because of the shorter endlinks, but still the endlinks are not vertical....
I'll post a pic as soon as I can, but i think you catch my drift?
Thanks already for the help ;-)
Greetz, Bart.
hopefully you guys can help me out here!
I did the Shelbydrop on my 68'er.
I've read that I need a different wheel alignment then stock.
My caster is +3.25 degree. I also have a 1" swaybar installed, including new endlinks.
Driving for a few weeks now, everything feels ok.
But when I checked underneath, I saw that my endlinks were bent! At the top of the metal tube, where the swaybarbushing are, the endlinks are both bent the same way.
I found out that my old endlinks bolts are shorter, and thicker then the new bent ones. Also the metal tube is shorter then the new ones...
Also I saw that the endlinks are not vertical aligned. The top of the endlinks point to the back of the car. This is because the holes of the lower control arm and the swaybar are not vertical aligned, but the lower controler arm sits more to the front of the car. I think this is caused by the +3.24 degrees caster?
Has anybody experienced this issue with the shelby drop?
I've put back the original swaybar + endlinks, and it sits a bit better because of the shorter endlinks, but still the endlinks are not vertical....
I'll post a pic as soon as I can, but i think you catch my drift?
Thanks already for the help ;-)
Greetz, Bart.
I'm not getting this at all. The 'drop' only lowers the car about 5/8", so you should really not even be able to see a difference at the tie rod ends.
You need different alignment, but again, nothing you could see.
This is a 68:
You need different alignment, but again, nothing you could see.
This is a 68:
Last edited by 2+2GT; May 7, 2010 at 12:38 PM.
The new swaybar endlinks that are longer and are bent:
(the 1 on the left is the original one..)

The bushings that are on the new endlinks are poly-urithane.
The old stock endlinks have rubber bushings:
This is a pictures with the car jacked up.


As you can see, the endlinks are not vertical. Also when the car is not jacked up, the endlinks are not vertical...
For what I've read on the following site:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop
I need more positive caster, so I have the stang aligned with these specs.
Therefore the lca is now somewhat more to the front.
As I can see now, the lca hole and the swaybar hole (for the endlink) is not directly above eachother, but the lca hole is somewhat more to the front.
This results in the endlinks not being vertical...
Hope this makes it clear?
(p.s. I was not talking about the tie rod ends?)
(the 1 on the left is the original one..)

The bushings that are on the new endlinks are poly-urithane.
The old stock endlinks have rubber bushings:
This is a pictures with the car jacked up.


As you can see, the endlinks are not vertical. Also when the car is not jacked up, the endlinks are not vertical...
For what I've read on the following site:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop
I need more positive caster, so I have the stang aligned with these specs.
Therefore the lca is now somewhat more to the front.
As I can see now, the lca hole and the swaybar hole (for the endlink) is not directly above eachother, but the lca hole is somewhat more to the front.
This results in the endlinks not being vertical...
Hope this makes it clear?
(p.s. I was not talking about the tie rod ends?)
Ditch the poly-urethane. It is too hard and doesnt have enough give to let the end links roll on the bushings as you turn. Between the positve caster, stiffer sway bar and poly bushings something has to give and its the end link bolts. Throw an old fashioned rubber bushing in there and you will have the give you need.
Also if you have Poly-urethane for you strut rod bushings take them out befor eyour strut rod snaps.
Also if you have Poly-urethane for you strut rod bushings take them out befor eyour strut rod snaps.
it's not that i don't wanna believe you, but when i search the net for caster explanation, i only see:

Wich means the lca will be more to the front with positive caster...
Or am I missing something?
Ditch the poly-urethane. It is too hard and doesnt have enough give to let the end links roll on the bushings as you turn. Between the positve caster, stiffer sway bar and poly bushings something has to give and its the end link bolts. Throw an old fashioned rubber bushing in there and you will have the give you need.
Also if you have Poly-urethane for you strut rod bushings take them out befor eyour strut rod snaps.
Also if you have Poly-urethane for you strut rod bushings take them out befor eyour strut rod snaps.
I understand the aspects all together, and will keep with the old (still ok) endlink including the rubber bushings. Is it better to have the metal tube between the metal rings shortend??
I understand that perfect vertical aligned endlinks is not necessary, but I don't know if mine are "ok" or too diagonal...
The old swaybar has a bit different mounting braces and bigger endlink holes, therefore with the old swaybar the endlinks are a bit more vertical.
The new 1" swaybar makes the endlinks sit more diagonal....
Maybe it could be an option to relocate the 1" swaybar a bit more to the front of the car?
You're quite right, I was tired at the time. Still, even if you move the caster adjustment a lot, you'll only see a small change in the actual position of the arm, perhaps a quarter inch. The obvious is what has happened here, your sway bar is made wrong.
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