Differences between AT and MT headers?
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 630
From: El Paso, TX
I believe it would be easier to keep the stock pedal set-up. I will more than likely be utilizing something like the set-up offered by Daze and Rosehill Performance. They have an offset pushrod so that no major modifications will be needed. To make it more reliable and for smoother operation, also consider Mustang Steve's roller bearing pedal support conversion.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html
Or if you feel handy enough, F15Falcon also offeres up a nice DIY write up.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/int...rings-fix.html
I will probably be using a Wilwood master cylinder that allows me to remotely mount the resevoir unless I can find a way to mount a triple Wilwood master cylinder and pedal set-up like HenryV.
Fred
http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html
Or if you feel handy enough, F15Falcon also offeres up a nice DIY write up.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/int...rings-fix.html
I will probably be using a Wilwood master cylinder that allows me to remotely mount the resevoir unless I can find a way to mount a triple Wilwood master cylinder and pedal set-up like HenryV.
Fred
Last edited by Deviousfred; May 11, 2010 at 09:33 PM.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
Here are pics. Some of them were hard to get, so maybe not the best angles.
Basically a pic from the top of the driver and pass side to see clearance. Th engine is sitting all the way to the passenger side(adjustable mounts). The headers on the pass side actually are designed so the header tube passes near the frame BETWEEN the 2 bolts for the idler arm....talk about designed to fit. Then from the front looking back, and one on each side near the collector. These are with the camera basically on the ground.
Welding the adapters to the pipe was a pain, since i was butt welding, and the adapaters wanted way less heat then the piping I was welding them too. They kept blowing through in spots and I had to cap them, so the welds there are ugly.
Basically a pic from the top of the driver and pass side to see clearance. Th engine is sitting all the way to the passenger side(adjustable mounts). The headers on the pass side actually are designed so the header tube passes near the frame BETWEEN the 2 bolts for the idler arm....talk about designed to fit. Then from the front looking back, and one on each side near the collector. These are with the camera basically on the ground.
Welding the adapters to the pipe was a pain, since i was butt welding, and the adapaters wanted way less heat then the piping I was welding them too. They kept blowing through in spots and I had to cap them, so the welds there are ugly.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,468
From: California
Yeah, the first welds there between the exhaust pipe and those collectors were horrible. The machine setting was a bit off and the adapters kept blowing through(even though I generally needed more heat). The other welds were fine though. But yeah, even with the whole thing not tucked as tight as I could get it, it still has great ground clearance.
It used to scrape BAD every time I pulled out of my driveway. Driveway uphill to a street with an asphalt low curb between the street and the driveway, major high center point. Nearly got stuck on that thing several times, scraped hard going in and out EVERY time. Now I can barrel over it and clear.
It used to scrape BAD every time I pulled out of my driveway. Driveway uphill to a street with an asphalt low curb between the street and the driveway, major high center point. Nearly got stuck on that thing several times, scraped hard going in and out EVERY time. Now I can barrel over it and clear.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,443
From: Canada
I have Dougs Tri "Y" Headers for an AT and couldn't be happier. Because the collectors are not under the car you have lots of room to route the exhaust around the trans and keep it tight to the car. Awesome quality.
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