Differences between AT and MT headers?
I'm looking over the Doug's Tri-Y headers and noticed they have headers for AT cars and MT cars. I will be running a T-5 with a hydraulic slave style clutch set-up. I'm sure the MT headers are designed to clear the factory z-bar and more than likely sacrifice clearance in other places. Would then the AT headers provide better clearance in other places if there is no need to provide clearance for the z-bar? Anyone have any insight on this?
Manual Trans Headers

Automatic Trans Headers

Fred
Manual Trans Headers

Automatic Trans Headers

Fred
I'm running hydraulic in my 67 with a slip on type unit. I used their AT headers on mine, since it's just a hydraulic line that can be routed wherever. A bit better looking I think(AT headers), and I imagine probably the AT headers fit a bit better than the MT ones, since they don't have to be made to clear the z-bar. I've been meaning to take pics since I got them on, I'll try to get some tomorrow showing the bellhousing as well, so you can see if there's room to clear your slave.
Here are pics. Some of them were hard to get, so maybe not the best angles.
Basically a pic from the top of the driver and pass side to see clearance. Th engine is sitting all the way to the passenger side(adjustable mounts). The headers on the pass side actually are designed so the header tube passes near the frame BETWEEN the 2 bolts for the idler arm....talk about designed to fit. Then from the front looking back, and one on each side near the collector. These are with the camera basically on the ground.
Welding the adapters to the pipe was a pain, since i was butt welding, and the adapaters wanted way less heat then the piping I was welding them too. They kept blowing through in spots and I had to cap them, so the welds there are ugly.
Basically a pic from the top of the driver and pass side to see clearance. Th engine is sitting all the way to the passenger side(adjustable mounts). The headers on the pass side actually are designed so the header tube passes near the frame BETWEEN the 2 bolts for the idler arm....talk about designed to fit. Then from the front looking back, and one on each side near the collector. These are with the camera basically on the ground.
Welding the adapters to the pipe was a pain, since i was butt welding, and the adapaters wanted way less heat then the piping I was welding them too. They kept blowing through in spots and I had to cap them, so the welds there are ugly.
Then one from the side to show clearance. I could have pulled it up higher than that, and the TKO takes up space, so this isn't even the best ground clearance these headers could have with an exhaust system. But the exhaust pipes are the lowest spot in the system. I gave them a bit of clearance around the trans too so I could get to things with the exhaust on if need be.
Also various shots of the bellhousing to show clearance near the trans. You can see my hyd lines going in and the bleeder that hangs out and see clearance. Depending on the slave type used(push/pull) and where it's mounted, the AT headers may or may not work with an external hyd slave. But mine is a slip on internal unit, so there are 0 clearance issues.
Also various shots of the bellhousing to show clearance near the trans. You can see my hyd lines going in and the bleeder that hangs out and see clearance. Depending on the slave type used(push/pull) and where it's mounted, the AT headers may or may not work with an external hyd slave. But mine is a slip on internal unit, so there are 0 clearance issues.
Thanks for the pics man! Looks like I'm pretty much decided on these. Did you say you were also running an x-pipe with these? Any chance we can get a video clip or sound clip more importantly.
fred any more info on your setup??
im going with a world class t5, but i havent done anything as far as pedals/etc.. i had been told using a factory fox/sn95 clutch cable was the way to go (since its easier)
im pulling my hooker LTs to get some of these (i think that mightve been your thread too)
im going with a world class t5, but i havent done anything as far as pedals/etc.. i had been told using a factory fox/sn95 clutch cable was the way to go (since its easier)
im pulling my hooker LTs to get some of these (i think that mightve been your thread too)


