testing e-street heads
#1
![Default](https://mustangforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi all,
local 66 mustang with stock 289 has a fried head (cracked).
We went cheapest route possible and organised the edelbrock e-street heads with a very very tame camshaft (he's daily family driver). will report back on what I think of them. Haven't heard of anyone using them so far
local 66 mustang with stock 289 has a fried head (cracked).
We went cheapest route possible and organised the edelbrock e-street heads with a very very tame camshaft (he's daily family driver). will report back on what I think of them. Haven't heard of anyone using them so far
#3
![Default](https://mustangforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I ordered the whole lot in the UK, since this was cheaper than US+shipping+VAT+duty ....
but they are 930$ at summit, might get them cheaper elsewhere.
On top of that you need
restrictors for head bolts bolts
front gasket set (waterpump, timing chain etc). head gaskets, intake and exhaust gasket,
pushrods (hardened)
rockers (better rollers with higehr lift)
timing chain set
probably a new camshaft (we did to not chance anything)
spark plug set
we had to buy headers as well as I refused to bolt exhaust manifolds to the new heads.
it sums up quite quickly ...
anyway I plan of taking pictures etc. wanted to go at it tonight, but we have a meeting, so move to tomorrow
Kalli
but they are 930$ at summit, might get them cheaper elsewhere.
On top of that you need
restrictors for head bolts bolts
front gasket set (waterpump, timing chain etc). head gaskets, intake and exhaust gasket,
pushrods (hardened)
rockers (better rollers with higehr lift)
timing chain set
probably a new camshaft (we did to not chance anything)
spark plug set
we had to buy headers as well as I refused to bolt exhaust manifolds to the new heads.
it sums up quite quickly ...
anyway I plan of taking pictures etc. wanted to go at it tonight, but we have a meeting, so move to tomorrow
Kalli
#6
![Default](https://mustangforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
that's what we started with, 1966 stock 289 heads and cam out:
![](https://lh5.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2SYCDM5I/AAAAAAAABMw/CVTbnKhZZ5U/s512/IMG_0271.JPG)
drilled steam hole. we only drilled at #1, and #5 as in manual. noone tell me now all 8 please ... :-)
![](https://lh5.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2TIg8t0I/AAAAAAAABMw/v1Q-onVgaa4/s512/IMG_0272.JPG)
drilling for water:
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2Udot1VI/AAAAAAAABMw/I9PwZnCTxkM/s512/IMG_0274.JPG)
new camshaft on it's way in:
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2U8YroZI/AAAAAAAABMw/F9GSDFa0I_Y/s512/IMG_0275.JPG)
timing cover back on, one head up:
![](https://lh3.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2WXMx7EI/AAAAAAAABMw/BGbVlPX9pDs/s512/IMG_0277.JPG)
checking pushrod length:
![](https://lh6.ggpht.com/_7rDLe507VfE/TAi2Xn7nVMI/AAAAAAAABMw/saA11fcq-e8/s512/IMG_0279.JPG)
for the pushrods: i measured how much the spring in lifter (new, not pumped) gives in, as the total length of pushrod needs to be that shorter and came up with 0.135 inch.
then we used the 6.8" checking rod (unadjusted) and checked for wear pattern and it looked good, more would bring the pattern outside (towards exhauset side of valve stem), to little and the wear pattern is wide.
but since the cam has 0.47" lift at cam, means around 0.29" at pushrod we figured half the lift is wasted in the hydraulic lifter and we can't get a proper result this way. so we slapped a used hydraulic lifter from the engine in it. got full lift this way and best pattern is between 6.7 (5.8 rod with 18 turns out) and 6.8. better towards 6.8.
So it seems those heads (in our combination) like stock size pushrods. ordered hardened 6.77" or comp cams 6.8" if they don't have the others.
unfortunately I wont see the rest of the build as I am on holidays next week, so that's a bummer. I'll report back on how it's driving though! sorry
kalli
drilled steam hole. we only drilled at #1, and #5 as in manual. noone tell me now all 8 please ... :-)
drilling for water:
new camshaft on it's way in:
timing cover back on, one head up:
checking pushrod length:
for the pushrods: i measured how much the spring in lifter (new, not pumped) gives in, as the total length of pushrod needs to be that shorter and came up with 0.135 inch.
then we used the 6.8" checking rod (unadjusted) and checked for wear pattern and it looked good, more would bring the pattern outside (towards exhauset side of valve stem), to little and the wear pattern is wide.
but since the cam has 0.47" lift at cam, means around 0.29" at pushrod we figured half the lift is wasted in the hydraulic lifter and we can't get a proper result this way. so we slapped a used hydraulic lifter from the engine in it. got full lift this way and best pattern is between 6.7 (5.8 rod with 18 turns out) and 6.8. better towards 6.8.
So it seems those heads (in our combination) like stock size pushrods. ordered hardened 6.77" or comp cams 6.8" if they don't have the others.
unfortunately I wont see the rest of the build as I am on holidays next week, so that's a bummer. I'll report back on how it's driving though! sorry
kalli
Last edited by kalli; 06-04-2010 at 07:23 AM.
#8
![Default](https://mustangforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
they don't specify a goddamn thing(sorry). the leaflet is as detailed as:
drill steamholes as in picture. picture shows you location for #1 and #5,
but it doesn't say anywhere if you have to drill them for all 8. ya, you could think that, but if unsure I better leave it off. The heads have the provisions to take all 8. Ya, one can assume, but no way to be sure.
that's the leaflet that comes with them:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../5000/5023.pdf
drill steamholes as in picture. picture shows you location for #1 and #5,
but it doesn't say anywhere if you have to drill them for all 8. ya, you could think that, but if unsure I better leave it off. The heads have the provisions to take all 8. Ya, one can assume, but no way to be sure.
that's the leaflet that comes with them:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../5000/5023.pdf