'68 mustang 200 to 302 swap
#1
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been wanting to swap out my 200 for a 302 for sometime so i finally bought a 302 motor with 351 heads and had it completely rebuilt. i have some idea but have a few questions.
i know i need:
motor mounts
frame mount brackets
accelerator pedal assembly
throttle cable
coil springs
radiator
pulleys
starter
alternator
things im not sure about is:
transmission, will the 302 bolt up to the 200 automatic transmission? do i need a 302 bell housing? flexplate?
wirering harness?
does anybody have any advice? i sure could use some
i know i need:
motor mounts
frame mount brackets
accelerator pedal assembly
throttle cable
coil springs
radiator
pulleys
starter
alternator
things im not sure about is:
transmission, will the 302 bolt up to the 200 automatic transmission? do i need a 302 bell housing? flexplate?
wirering harness?
does anybody have any advice? i sure could use some
#2
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things im not sure about is:
transmission, will the 302 bolt up to the 200 automatic transmission?
No.
do i need a 302 bell housing?
Yes.
flexplate?
Yes.
wirering harness?
Yes.
does anybody have any advice?
The 6 cylinder C4 is internally not as strong as the 302 C4.
1968 Mustangs did not use a throttle cable.
transmission, will the 302 bolt up to the 200 automatic transmission?
No.
do i need a 302 bell housing?
Yes.
flexplate?
Yes.
wirering harness?
Yes.
does anybody have any advice?
The 6 cylinder C4 is internally not as strong as the 302 C4.
1968 Mustangs did not use a throttle cable.
#5
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the trans will work but it is weaker and would need a new bellhousing.
You also should consider COMPLETE new suspension, front and rear. This includes springs, shocks, upper and lower arms, strut and sway bars, rear leaf springs, and rear shocks.
You also will want to upgrade the rear end on the car, from the smaller 7" to 8" or 9" rear. the 7" will blow out in no time.
Also, consider new steering linkages.
Brakes will also need to be swapped.
Drive shaft will need to be replaced too.
You will also need to get some wiring for the engine bay.
I am finishing up my 200 - 289 conversion, and parts ran me about $5,000 and it could have EASILY been more. Don't be surprised when it all adds up.
You also should consider COMPLETE new suspension, front and rear. This includes springs, shocks, upper and lower arms, strut and sway bars, rear leaf springs, and rear shocks.
You also will want to upgrade the rear end on the car, from the smaller 7" to 8" or 9" rear. the 7" will blow out in no time.
Also, consider new steering linkages.
Brakes will also need to be swapped.
Drive shaft will need to be replaced too.
You will also need to get some wiring for the engine bay.
I am finishing up my 200 - 289 conversion, and parts ran me about $5,000 and it could have EASILY been more. Don't be surprised when it all adds up.
Last edited by 1967coupeon101; 06-04-2010 at 08:55 PM.
#6
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Nope, that's overkill. Consider them, yes, but not all are necessary. New front V8 springs and heavier sway bar are needed. The rest mentioned will be based on wear and personal preferences.
#7
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overkill? its better to be safe then sorry. if it is original suspension and the car was stored how most people do.... you should change it while you've got the car apart. 42+ years of wear on that steel is only going to get worse when a larger engine is sitting on it... just my suggestion to everyone.
#9
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This is a old car who knows when anything was ever changed your already there why do the same job twice?The cheapest and easiest way is sell your car and buy a v8 one the win will always show its a inline 6 so its worth less then a v8 car.
#10
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I don't think it would be worth that much less. I have a T code I6 car that has been converted to 302 5 speed etc, etc. I have been offered quite a bit for it and the people knew what it was. All things being equal it might be a little lower, but most people don't care.