alignment issues
6th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,417
From: Cork, Ireland
why not steal a thread
on that note:
I measured toe in with a tape measurer, and camber with a tool (basically and angle finder that works in such a way that you can dial in the degrees and you know if you hit by checking the water bubble. very primitive gauge.
but what I don't get is how am I supposed to set caster? i can't possibly hold that tool onto the spindle ?!
IGNORE .. . I just read a manual from a similar tool. turnning the wheel is the trick (well I could have come up with that myself ...)
At the garage I learned in we had a stand with those triple mirrors ...
I measured toe in with a tape measurer, and camber with a tool (basically and angle finder that works in such a way that you can dial in the degrees and you know if you hit by checking the water bubble. very primitive gauge.
but what I don't get is how am I supposed to set caster? i can't possibly hold that tool onto the spindle ?!
IGNORE .. . I just read a manual from a similar tool. turnning the wheel is the trick (well I could have come up with that myself ...)
At the garage I learned in we had a stand with those triple mirrors ...
Last edited by kalli; Jun 22, 2010 at 07:50 AM.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
There is another effect, involving bumpsteer.
Changing caster very far from the preferred OE setting will raise or lower the steering arm and outer tierod height, and the arc that the pivot follows during suspension travel will change. Sometimes this can help reduce an excessive amount of bumpsteer if the caster change puts the tierod inclination closer to where it should be for zero b/steer, but it's just as likely to make it worse.
Norm
Changing caster very far from the preferred OE setting will raise or lower the steering arm and outer tierod height, and the arc that the pivot follows during suspension travel will change. Sometimes this can help reduce an excessive amount of bumpsteer if the caster change puts the tierod inclination closer to where it should be for zero b/steer, but it's just as likely to make it worse.
Norm
5th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,266
From: Australia
also depends how much front suspension travel you have. a lot of guys with lowered 620's and beefy shocks arent going to notice bump steer. they may get "manhole cover" steer, "railroad track" steer or numerous other steering reactions from drving over non-conforming road surfaces due to suspension being too stiff
Most of the time it gets incorrectly labelled as bump steer.
Most of the time it gets incorrectly labelled as bump steer.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,635
From: state of confusion
Which means that what you were really experiencing before changing the tires was tramlining. Which is generally more annoying than bumpsteer anyway.
Following every little wiggle in the truck tire ruts isn't the same thing as having to saw back and forth on the steering wheel in order to stay on your line through a turn.
Norm
Following every little wiggle in the truck tire ruts isn't the same thing as having to saw back and forth on the steering wheel in order to stay on your line through a turn.
Norm
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