Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

starter keeps running

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #1  
bucket of bolts's Avatar
bucket of bolts
Thread Starter
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5
Default starter keeps running

I just put in a new starter on my 1965 Mustang and a new starter solenoid. It is a V8 that i converted from a 6 cyl. I put in an HEI distributer also. The distributer wire is hooked to the battery side correctly. I must have something wired wrong because as long as i don't have the wire hooked up to the distributer the starter turns the engine over nice and smoothly but, when i hook up the wire to the distributer the starter wants to keep running and makes a terrible noise. I hope you can solve this problem for me. Thanks.
Ron
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #2  
rmodel65's Avatar
rmodel65
Yukon Cornelius
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,812
From: deep in the heart of dixie GEORGIA
Default

sounds like your putting power to the left side of the start solenoids small post?? is the wire for the dizzy hot your hooking up?
Old Jul 5, 2010 | 01:50 AM
  #3  
Tomahawk715's Avatar
Tomahawk715
1st Gear Member
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 88
From: Pickford MI
Default

Tap the starter solenoid with something--I had a brand new one I put in a Cj7 with a AMC360 that was bad right out of the gate.


Did you just put the HEI dist in when you put in the starter and solenoid??
Cause if you did might be an issue with the ballast resistor--
HEI requires 12 volts all the time to work at it’s best, and points would burn up with 12 volts at all times. Non HEI has inline ballast resistor or a resistance type wire that reduces the 12 volts from the battery down to around 9.3 volts to the coil

The points-type distributors do use 12 volts when cranking, however, this is accomplished with a 'bypass wire', located between the starter solenoid (R) terminal and the coil (+) terminal, and is 'hot' only in the ignition switch's 'crank' position and "bypasses" the resistor wire to supply the 12 volts. In other words, on some cars, there will be 2 wires for spark juice, one is 'hot' in the ignition switch "crank" position, the other is 'hot' in the ignition switch "run" position. This was common in the pre-1971 cars, which used an inline ballast resistor with an external voltage regulator.


Just some thoughts
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SSRFUZZY
Members Other Vehicles
6
Jan 6, 2016 08:22 PM
TorinoCobra070
SVT Forums
8
Sep 18, 2015 10:34 AM
MusicCity615
General Tech
7
Sep 12, 2015 07:05 AM
wilsonro
4 Cylinder NA and Turbo
0
Sep 11, 2015 07:13 AM
uedlose
Archive - Parts For Sale
0
Sep 10, 2015 03:30 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:36 AM.