starter keeps running
I just put in a new starter on my 1965 Mustang and a new starter solenoid. It is a V8 that i converted from a 6 cyl. I put in an HEI distributer also. The distributer wire is hooked to the battery side correctly. I must have something wired wrong because as long as i don't have the wire hooked up to the distributer the starter turns the engine over nice and smoothly but, when i hook up the wire to the distributer the starter wants to keep running and makes a terrible noise. I hope you can solve this problem for me. Thanks.
Ron
Ron
Tap the starter solenoid with something--I had a brand new one I put in a Cj7 with a AMC360 that was bad right out of the gate.
Did you just put the HEI dist in when you put in the starter and solenoid??
Cause if you did might be an issue with the ballast resistor--
HEI requires 12 volts all the time to work at it’s best, and points would burn up with 12 volts at all times. Non HEI has inline ballast resistor or a resistance type wire that reduces the 12 volts from the battery down to around 9.3 volts to the coil
The points-type distributors do use 12 volts when cranking, however, this is accomplished with a 'bypass wire', located between the starter solenoid (R) terminal and the coil (+) terminal, and is 'hot' only in the ignition switch's 'crank' position and "bypasses" the resistor wire to supply the 12 volts. In other words, on some cars, there will be 2 wires for spark juice, one is 'hot' in the ignition switch "crank" position, the other is 'hot' in the ignition switch "run" position. This was common in the pre-1971 cars, which used an inline ballast resistor with an external voltage regulator.
Just some thoughts
Did you just put the HEI dist in when you put in the starter and solenoid??
Cause if you did might be an issue with the ballast resistor--
HEI requires 12 volts all the time to work at it’s best, and points would burn up with 12 volts at all times. Non HEI has inline ballast resistor or a resistance type wire that reduces the 12 volts from the battery down to around 9.3 volts to the coil
The points-type distributors do use 12 volts when cranking, however, this is accomplished with a 'bypass wire', located between the starter solenoid (R) terminal and the coil (+) terminal, and is 'hot' only in the ignition switch's 'crank' position and "bypasses" the resistor wire to supply the 12 volts. In other words, on some cars, there will be 2 wires for spark juice, one is 'hot' in the ignition switch "crank" position, the other is 'hot' in the ignition switch "run" position. This was common in the pre-1971 cars, which used an inline ballast resistor with an external voltage regulator.
Just some thoughts
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