A woman's project: 68 Fastback
10-24-2010, 12:20 AM
#91
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
For the inside of the cowl where water would come in contact with..I would go over everything with an epoxy primer or a paint that you feel is good quality. I would then use a 3M seam sealant over all the welds and joints and finally top coat that again with a paint that you like.
Por 15 may be good for an initial prime. It is self leveling and very smooth I found it also has excellent adhesion properties and is quite hard. simply use a wet finger to feather the 3M seam sealant so has no edges to collect dirt or water..
-Gun
Por 15 may be good for an initial prime. It is self leveling and very smooth I found it also has excellent adhesion properties and is quite hard. simply use a wet finger to feather the 3M seam sealant so has no edges to collect dirt or water..
-Gun
Last edited by Gun Jam; 10-24-2010 at 12:24 AM.
10-24-2010, 11:47 AM
#92
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,027
For the inside of the cowl where water would come in contact with..I would go over everything with an epoxy primer or a paint that you feel is good quality. I would then use a 3M seam sealant over all the welds and joints and finally top coat that again with a paint that you like.
Por 15 may be good for an initial prime. It is self leveling and very smooth I found it also has excellent adhesion properties and is quite hard. simply use a wet finger to feather the 3M seam sealant so has no edges to collect dirt or water..
-Gun
Por 15 may be good for an initial prime. It is self leveling and very smooth I found it also has excellent adhesion properties and is quite hard. simply use a wet finger to feather the 3M seam sealant so has no edges to collect dirt or water..
-Gun
. It's hard to fine one let alone two...
10-25-2010, 12:18 PM
#95
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 756
Thanks guys for all the advice and good ideas. We are not going to use the Raptor in the cowl because of all of your good points. To finish the cowl, we will seal the seams, prime and paint our body color...
The chassis saver we used is the satin finish. If you haven't tried it I would recommend it. We have used both POR15 and Chassis Saver and have found that the CS adheres a little better (in OUR opinion, I know everyone has their own product they prefer). They both are great products.
10-25-2010, 04:50 PM
#97
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 756
Yeah I'm thinking we better restore it to original. I have the Marti Report it had about everything we expected.... Lime Gold, Ivy Gold interior, C-4 cruise-o-matic, 302 4-V, tilt-away steering, console, fold-down seat, A/C, white wall tires, tinted glass, and deluxe belts.
But wouldn't it be so tempting to make it look like this??
But wouldn't it be so tempting to make it look like this??
Last edited by NoReins; 10-25-2010 at 05:11 PM.
10-25-2010, 07:32 PM
#99
I think it would be very tempting but with that many options on the car I'd suggest restore to stock except for what bolt-ons you could add to make it handle and drive better. Maybe an AOD with overdrive and some updated suspension. Nothing that could not be undone.
Having said that since my car is not a high optioned or even anything special I'm going to update the thing till my heart is content...once I get it back together and drive it for awhile.
Having said that since my car is not a high optioned or even anything special I'm going to update the thing till my heart is content...once I get it back together and drive it for awhile.
10-31-2010, 04:32 PM
#100
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 756
We accomplished a few new things today. We still have a long ways to go, but every day I know we are getting closer. The rockers need patched, so before we do that we used it as a way to get in and spray the insides with Chassis Saver. We used an empty U-Pol Raptor bottle that we had cleaned and saved for this, as well as the gun. We rigged it up with a rubber tube and wouldn't you know... it did the trick! Here are a couple pics of my invention:
Our plans are to install the Mustang II suspension from Rod and Custom, as well as custom engine bay aprons from Mustangs to Fear. We have the custom aprons in our hands right now, but we still need to purchase the suspension before installing them. We replaced the rear fender aprons, the others will eventually be cut out for the custom panels. We want to keep as much as the structure in tact, so until we get the suspension we are leaving the current fender aprons where they are to help mock up the radiator support.
We took the front end off of the rotisserie and put it up on jack stands so we could get to the radiator support. Before mocking up the radiator support we did our best to clean out the front frame rails and coat with Chassis Saver. Again, our ghetto gun worked like a charm!
Pic of the old radiator support:
Radiator support removed:
Spraying the Chassis Saver, getting ready to weld in the new Radiator Support:
Our plans are to install the Mustang II suspension from Rod and Custom, as well as custom engine bay aprons from Mustangs to Fear. We have the custom aprons in our hands right now, but we still need to purchase the suspension before installing them. We replaced the rear fender aprons, the others will eventually be cut out for the custom panels. We want to keep as much as the structure in tact, so until we get the suspension we are leaving the current fender aprons where they are to help mock up the radiator support.
We took the front end off of the rotisserie and put it up on jack stands so we could get to the radiator support. Before mocking up the radiator support we did our best to clean out the front frame rails and coat with Chassis Saver. Again, our ghetto gun worked like a charm!
Pic of the old radiator support:
Radiator support removed:
Spraying the Chassis Saver, getting ready to weld in the new Radiator Support: