NoReins

If you have them, they will be under the toeboards. Your car did not come with front torque boxes from the factory. They could have been added at some point but yes, I would add them if they are not there. Torque boxes add quite a bit of rigidity to the unibody.

Here's a good how to:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/projec...box/index.html

As far as the subframe connectors, I would recommend them, too. Especially since you are going to be replacing the floors, subframe connectors will keep the body in line and will help prevent any twisting or movement. But, if you want to restore to original, don't add either!

69FB

NoReigns is correct if you are restoring to original do not add either. If you are looking to restomod, pro-touring or just make a fun driver I would definitely add them. The unibody construction (no frame) makes the car less rigid. If you want it to handle well a stiffer body will help. Having said that I would suggest the Tinman for subframe connectors. Everything I have read gives them good reviews.

For my sheetmetal I used all Dynacorn pieces. Granted I am limited compared to the 65-68 crowd as far as the parts since I have a 69. I will say the doors have an added crash/safety bar inside the doors I bought that I really like. I don't want to think about someone hitting the car but if they do I like the extra safety over the original ones.

OCHOHILL

Something I thought I should mention about the door fitment:

-the factory fitment on these cars wasn't the best
-my factory doors and quarter panels didn't meet well, mostly in and out problems
-I had to drill out the quarter panel welds at the door pillar and move the quarter panel in and out to get the best fitment with the door

Good luck.

bent metal

Ok, it looks like I'm going to have some issues with fit. Right now the driver's side door is about a quarter of an inch too high, at the top. About an eighth of an inch too low in the middle, and just about right at the bottom! haha

I do have a question, on the front fenders, at the very bottom, behind the wheel well (like where you would have a mud flap). Both sides are pointing out and it doesn't look like there is a mount of any kind there? I didn't take the car apart so I don't know. I would expect to see a bracket to adjust and secure the fender there??

bent metal

Door alignment picture.https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...alignment.html

2+2GT

On a 67-68, yes.

Align the door to the quarter. Then align the fender to the door.

mr_velocity

Even with "what is supposed to be the best" golden legion doors I had to cut, weld and fill the doors to make they fit. The right door fit different than the left door too. Get the alignment to the rear quarter AND the rocker. I say both because my pass door fit perfect to the qtr but the seam was 1/2" off from front to rear along the rocker. I found I had to weld additional metal to the rear of the door to close up the seam. Then hood (get the seam perfect along the cowl) then fenders, then front end then see how to get the fender to align to the door.
Although I'm not through this entire process yet, its what the guys in the shop at the Mustang Barn told me to do.

bent metal

Very much appreciate all the advise. I'm following it all as well. The car looks to have been T-boned at one time, on the driver's side. I think that's why the body lines are so bad there. The new panels look pretty good so far. Since I'm installing new quarters as well, the poor fit on the driver's side should be ok when all of it is new.

Tomorrow I start cutting.

So there is no support bracket on the front fender. Only on 67-68's. Well, I'd like to add one if they don't look too obvious. Anyone have a picture? Or do I just wing it?

One more thing, all over the place on this car there are little blobs of braze on the joints. Is that normal?

cprstreetmachines

I was poking fun at the distance you were from the car. Can't judge a gaps worth from 60 ft away, or at an angle. Lol, don't get butt hurt jeez.

bent metal

This project is a bit overwhelming. Seems like I'm replacing more than I'm keeping. Also, removing spot welds turned out to be not as much fun as I thought it would be.
I still haven't posted enough here to be allowed to insert pictures. But here's a link to the photo album that's on this site.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/memb...993-small.html