reverse light removal 67 coupe
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reverse light removal 67 coupe
hey guy have seemingly simple problem here
both my interior and one reverse light are burned out i got the interior one out fine, but the reverse one doesn't want to come out..... i tried pushing then twisting since thats how most light bulbs on the car are but no dice couldn't get it and don't want to break it.
both my interior and one reverse light are burned out i got the interior one out fine, but the reverse one doesn't want to come out..... i tried pushing then twisting since thats how most light bulbs on the car are but no dice couldn't get it and don't want to break it.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
It's probably froze in the socket from corrosion. Try spraying as close to the socket as you can with some lubricant, WD-40, etc. The bulb does push in slightly and turn to come out but they get stuck after 40+yrs.
If you push on the bulb use a rag or something as it can break and cut you. If it breaks they pick as much out as you can then use a med. sized needle nose to push on the center of the bulb socket and twist then pull it out with the pliers. Be sure to only grab/twist the bulb/base as you don't want to wreck the socket. If the socket is ruined or gets ruined there are replacements at the parts store.
When you get the bulb out you can always test the socket with a 12V test light (<$5). When you put the new bulb in put a dab of wheel bearing or other thick grease on the socket so it won't freeze up a again, I do this to all the bulbs I change, really saves a headache down the road.
Jon
If you push on the bulb use a rag or something as it can break and cut you. If it breaks they pick as much out as you can then use a med. sized needle nose to push on the center of the bulb socket and twist then pull it out with the pliers. Be sure to only grab/twist the bulb/base as you don't want to wreck the socket. If the socket is ruined or gets ruined there are replacements at the parts store.
When you get the bulb out you can always test the socket with a 12V test light (<$5). When you put the new bulb in put a dab of wheel bearing or other thick grease on the socket so it won't freeze up a again, I do this to all the bulbs I change, really saves a headache down the road.
Jon
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
It may come to that, after breaking the bulb I usually put the needle nose into the shell of the bulb, spread the pliers and use the tips to press outward and turn to unscrew the base. At worst you may have to pinch the sides of the bulb base in to collapse it and release the nubs from the socket and pull the base out crushed. Someone may have put the wrong bulb in or fudged up the little nubs that twist into the socket. The bulb should be a single filament #1156.
If it doesn't push in at all the spring in the socket may be rusted solid and you'd have to replace the socket anyway to fix that. Once you get the base of the bulb out, if the socket looks ok you can just replace the internals, they look like this:
Jon
If it doesn't push in at all the spring in the socket may be rusted solid and you'd have to replace the socket anyway to fix that. Once you get the base of the bulb out, if the socket looks ok you can just replace the internals, they look like this:
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; Aug 25, 2010 at 07:10 AM.
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