Decided to sell my baby before entering basic training, need input on asking price
#1
Decided to sell my baby before entering basic training, need input on asking price
I’ve had the car for 4 years; it mostly sat in my garage collecting dust. Planned on keeping it forever, but I accepted a commission into the Army and have decided to part ways rather than attempt to store it. I've sunk countless hours and paychecks into it, and this is probably the worst time to sell a classic car, but that's life LOL.
Most of the engine stuff was done by the previous owner, and there are some mysteries about whether it has an oversized cam + upgraded internals. Mechanics I’ve taken it to seem to think it does. However I’ve never been ambitious enough to tear it down and find out, so I’m not gonna claim what’s in there as a selling point. My gut says if they built it up this much there’s no way they left it with stock internals, so I guess it’s just a surprise bonus for the new owner.
What's been done:
-351 Cleveland with 4V heads
-4-speed toploader transmission w/ Hurst shifter, 9” rear end
-Offenhauser Dual Port 351C-4V intake manifold
-Holley Double Pumper Carburetor
-Hooker headers
-Flowmaster exhaust
-Mallory Unilite Distributor
-Mallory Promaster Ignition Coil
-Summit Aluminum “Street & Strip” Radiator + overflow bottle
-Moroso oil pan
-New fuel tank + fuel pump
-100amp chrome alternator
-New Water Pump
-New battery / spark plugs + wires / starter solenoid / voltage regulator / fuel filter / Robert Shaw thermostat / thermostat housing / upper and lower coolant hoses / engine belt / air filter / valve covers / breathers / vacuum lines / fuel hoses / bushings / fel-pro gaskets / and other minor maintenance parts I can’t remember at the moment
-Manual steering adapter
-Autometer Phantom Series gauges: 5” speedo, 5” tach, 2 5/8” water temp, and 2 5/8” fuel
-Original Magnum 500 wheels (tires have about 90% tread left)
-Interior stuff : seats, carpet, steering wheel, headliner, dash pad, miscellaneous stuff
Work that should be done:
-Hot starting is sometimes difficult, mechanics have diagnosed it’s due to an oversized cam. I’ve been told a high torque mini-starter would cure this.
-The heater core died so I unhooked it and bypassed it at the water pump (aka the “Ford loop”).
-It had power steering when I bought it, but control valve leaked so I pulled everything and put in a manual steering adapter. You can “feel” the road better, but parallel parking is near impossible. I still have the power steering pump/bracket/pulley if new owner is ambitious enough to rebuild the system (you’d need the control valve, slave cylinder, and hoses).
-I removed the hood springs after I bent 2 sets of hinges. I have brand new Scott Drake springs sitting in a box if new owner is motivated to put them back in.
-Brakes should probably be upgraded from drum to disc.
-My mechanic advised swapping out the Mallory distributor/coil for a Pertronix unit, I have no opinion.
-Oil pan has a dent in front.
-Parking brake doesn’t work. All the cables are there, I think it’s missing the brake shoe link (which is like $7).
-Dash pad has 3 holes (about 1/2" each) near front window where gauge cups used to be mounted
-No radio + door panels are missing speakers.
-Floor pan is solid, but I’d probably advise strip & POR15 it (along with the wheel wells).
-Developing some tiny surface rust along drip rails and windshield molding
-Paint chips on hood edges
Here's the only photos I have with me at the moment...I'm going to take a lot of detailed photos in the next couple days (motor, interior, etc). Just wondering if anyone has a feel for my target price. Thank you so much for any input
Most of the engine stuff was done by the previous owner, and there are some mysteries about whether it has an oversized cam + upgraded internals. Mechanics I’ve taken it to seem to think it does. However I’ve never been ambitious enough to tear it down and find out, so I’m not gonna claim what’s in there as a selling point. My gut says if they built it up this much there’s no way they left it with stock internals, so I guess it’s just a surprise bonus for the new owner.
What's been done:
-351 Cleveland with 4V heads
-4-speed toploader transmission w/ Hurst shifter, 9” rear end
-Offenhauser Dual Port 351C-4V intake manifold
-Holley Double Pumper Carburetor
-Hooker headers
-Flowmaster exhaust
-Mallory Unilite Distributor
-Mallory Promaster Ignition Coil
-Summit Aluminum “Street & Strip” Radiator + overflow bottle
-Moroso oil pan
-New fuel tank + fuel pump
-100amp chrome alternator
-New Water Pump
-New battery / spark plugs + wires / starter solenoid / voltage regulator / fuel filter / Robert Shaw thermostat / thermostat housing / upper and lower coolant hoses / engine belt / air filter / valve covers / breathers / vacuum lines / fuel hoses / bushings / fel-pro gaskets / and other minor maintenance parts I can’t remember at the moment
-Manual steering adapter
-Autometer Phantom Series gauges: 5” speedo, 5” tach, 2 5/8” water temp, and 2 5/8” fuel
-Original Magnum 500 wheels (tires have about 90% tread left)
-Interior stuff : seats, carpet, steering wheel, headliner, dash pad, miscellaneous stuff
Work that should be done:
-Hot starting is sometimes difficult, mechanics have diagnosed it’s due to an oversized cam. I’ve been told a high torque mini-starter would cure this.
-The heater core died so I unhooked it and bypassed it at the water pump (aka the “Ford loop”).
-It had power steering when I bought it, but control valve leaked so I pulled everything and put in a manual steering adapter. You can “feel” the road better, but parallel parking is near impossible. I still have the power steering pump/bracket/pulley if new owner is ambitious enough to rebuild the system (you’d need the control valve, slave cylinder, and hoses).
-I removed the hood springs after I bent 2 sets of hinges. I have brand new Scott Drake springs sitting in a box if new owner is motivated to put them back in.
-Brakes should probably be upgraded from drum to disc.
-My mechanic advised swapping out the Mallory distributor/coil for a Pertronix unit, I have no opinion.
-Oil pan has a dent in front.
-Parking brake doesn’t work. All the cables are there, I think it’s missing the brake shoe link (which is like $7).
-Dash pad has 3 holes (about 1/2" each) near front window where gauge cups used to be mounted
-No radio + door panels are missing speakers.
-Floor pan is solid, but I’d probably advise strip & POR15 it (along with the wheel wells).
-Developing some tiny surface rust along drip rails and windshield molding
-Paint chips on hood edges
Here's the only photos I have with me at the moment...I'm going to take a lot of detailed photos in the next couple days (motor, interior, etc). Just wondering if anyone has a feel for my target price. Thank you so much for any input
#2
Hey, it looks to be in pretty good shape. If I were you I would keep it. Im in the Navy and its nice to have a project when you come home, youll probably kick yourself later on for selling. But if you are going to get rid of it, I would say not to expect more than 8-9,000 for it. And I believe that is pretty steep. I would probably personally pay around $5,500 for it and feel ok about the deal. Since it is a coupe it wont go for as much as you would think. Especially since it needs work and you arent sure of the engine internals. Depends on where you are in the country and how much the buyer really wants it. i would just put a sign in it and an add asking $9,000 or best offer and take what you can get.
#3
Im sorry to say that when I am hunting I would prefer the motor not have cash dumped into it. I kinda take the dealer approach, it is expected to have wheels and tires and run decent, other than that it is a molestation to a classic car when you do the hotrod bits and you cannot expect to get the money back out of it.
Is it a western car or a north eastern car?
I would look at closed Ebay auctions in your region and use that for a starting point.
Is it a western car or a north eastern car?
I would look at closed Ebay auctions in your region and use that for a starting point.
#4
Im sorry to say that when I am hunting I would prefer the motor not have cash dumped into it. I kinda take the dealer approach, it is expected to have wheels and tires and run decent, other than that it is a molestation to a classic car when you do the hotrod bits and you cannot expect to get the money back out of it.
Is it a western car or a north eastern car?
I would look at closed Ebay auctions in your region and use that for a starting point.
Is it a western car or a north eastern car?
I would look at closed Ebay auctions in your region and use that for a starting point.
I'm with you on the motor issue, I didn't really know what I was getting myself into when I bought it and slowly figured out it's not your average grocery-getter...
I'm in San Francisco, and it's been a California car its entire life.
#6
I once broke down on a road trip, and limped into a small Army Reserve base, and they opened up their little 2-bay hobby shop for me. I was on my way with a fixed car in a couple of hours, would have been impossible otherwise, it was about 20° out at the time.
Last edited by 2+2GT; 10-11-2010 at 07:30 PM.
#8
I too am of the sentiment you should not sell it. These old Mustangs are easy to work on, so they make a great learning experience. If you take the time to learn how to do the repairs yourself, you can save money and enjoy the car rather than see it as a burden.
There is always an Auto Skill Center, even the Marines have them. Some are better than others, but they are on nearly every post or base. The larger ones for certain. You have a cool car, and it is probably not a slug either. If you sell it you will regret it. With O pay rates you can afford to keep it and make it better. Well once you hit Captain it gets pretty good.
I've had the red Cougar in my sig since 1982, though I havent driven it since 1987 I still have it. Its my first car, the one I learned how to fix and keep it running, and I just finished the paint in 08. No need to store a car that runs, take it with you unless you are headed to Korea or to some other remote for your first PCS. I still have the 79 Formula Firebird I bought in Germany in 1991, it has been all over the world with me. You dont need to sell it or store it, go enjoy it.
There is always an Auto Skill Center, even the Marines have them. Some are better than others, but they are on nearly every post or base. The larger ones for certain. You have a cool car, and it is probably not a slug either. If you sell it you will regret it. With O pay rates you can afford to keep it and make it better. Well once you hit Captain it gets pretty good.
I've had the red Cougar in my sig since 1982, though I havent driven it since 1987 I still have it. Its my first car, the one I learned how to fix and keep it running, and I just finished the paint in 08. No need to store a car that runs, take it with you unless you are headed to Korea or to some other remote for your first PCS. I still have the 79 Formula Firebird I bought in Germany in 1991, it has been all over the world with me. You dont need to sell it or store it, go enjoy it.
#9
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
+1
Thumpin definitely sheds some truth on some key points (some that I didn't even know of).
I agree with everyone else, hang on to it. Store it if you absolutely have to, but please don't let it go, you'll regret it in the long run.
+1
Thumpin definitely sheds some truth on some key points (some that I didn't even know of).
I agree with everyone else, hang on to it. Store it if you absolutely have to, but please don't let it go, you'll regret it in the long run.
Last edited by hightower2011; 10-12-2010 at 01:41 PM.