Not all of mine were terrible, some were worse than others. I made patches and just fixed certain areas. Once that was done I rustoleumed the whole floor and then I put down fatmat sound deadener. You can paint that as well but i did not, I felt like it was overkill. On one of the worse ones, I also welded in a patch on the bottom well so it was covered both top and bottom. Any gaps anywhere on the bottom were then filled with fiberglass, painted and undercoated. I'm hoping this will not keep it from rusting again.

 

NoReins, when you welded in the new floor, did you guys do plug welds? This guy from Mustang Monthly did something called a Rosette weld. I'm wondering if that's even the factory way of doing it?

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0411_how_to_replace_floorpans/photo_30.html

I hauled the complete floor pan home and now it's in my garage. Next step is carefully taking out the old floor. Hopefully my front framerail extensions aren't too rusted.....

 

We did plug welds on the areas of the floor pans that connect to the rocker. Where the pans overlapped the transmission tunnel, we did plug welds and lap welds. Because you are doing the full floor pan you won't have to do near the amount of welding we did, it will save you lots of time and the look will be much cleaner- good choice!

 

Which one did you get? I remember they had two different kind when I picked up my floor pan from Mustang Plus. One of them is thicker than the other. The easiest way to install them is overlap them at the trans tunnel area and plug weld where the rockers and floorpans meet. I would also consider adding a passenger torque box if your 67 didn't come with one since you're removing your floor pan.

 

It seemed like the torque boxes were not typical for 67' coupes, but I gotta go check. I'll see if I can snap some shots of it tonight.

I bought the complete floor pan kit which included the seat risers, all the plugs and torque box covers. It was a standard kit for 65'-68' models, also from mustang plus.

 

You're right, the torque box was only on the driver side and not in the passenger side. Kinda weird that they would install it on one side only.

Here's a picture of my old floor pan drilled out and on my driveway.

 

Wow, nice work. That's like having a scab come off in one piece and new skin underneath.

 

It came off real nice. Looks like your floors were not too bad.

 

So I have the interior stripped and clean, but before welding in the complete floor pan, would you prime/paint/undercoat the areas which wouldn't get welded?

Or do it all at once when the floor is in?

 

Wait until it is all in, then prime, paint, and undercoat it all. That's how I'm doing it, but then again I'm using a rotisserie...
I guess if you're just dropping it in it would be a pain in the butt to prime/undercoat if you're on your back underneath the car, so unless you have access to a lift, you may want to prime/undercoat the underside before you drop it in. Just keep in mind you'll need to go back and primer/undercoat where you welded on top of the metal cause it could burn through or warp the primer/undercoat on the bottom.