primer
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 756
From: Ohio
70 is optimal. 60 degree metal temp is acceptable, but not a degree colder. The primer will NOT cure and you will have problems. I would read the expoxy tech sheet also: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...oxy_primer.pdf
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
My brother-in-law has a small stove that came out of a caboose on a train, man does that thing throw a lot of heat.
Oh, don't paint and use open flame heaters. I usually get the garage as hot as possible, shut them down and don't restart them again until I'm sure the fumes aren't going to make us go boom.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
We heat our house mostly with a wood burning stove, I don't want to see the gas bill from my 100,000 btu heater that has been running in the garage. If I had thought about it earlier this year I would have put a small stove in the garage too. If I could figure out a vent system without needing to cut a hole in the roof I would pick one up quick on CL. We burn about 5 cords of wood a year, I split while my wife stacks it all.
My brother-in-law has a small stove that came out of a caboose on a train, man does that thing throw a lot of heat.
Oh, don't paint and use open flame heaters. I usually get the garage as hot as possible, shut them down and don't restart them again until I'm sure the fumes aren't going to make us go boom.
My brother-in-law has a small stove that came out of a caboose on a train, man does that thing throw a lot of heat.
Oh, don't paint and use open flame heaters. I usually get the garage as hot as possible, shut them down and don't restart them again until I'm sure the fumes aren't going to make us go boom.
Thanks for the final tip, haha. I'm probably going to prime in 4 or 5 big sections, so I'll do what you did and after I finish spraying a section, leave it 'till it dries. No need to go boom just trying to speed things up.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 446
From: Texas
70 is optimal. 60 degree metal temp is acceptable, but not a degree colder. The primer will NOT cure and you will have problems. I would read the expoxy tech sheet also: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...oxy_primer.pdf
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 446
From: Texas
Whoops! It was clear and not primer. It's worth a look, still. Barry has a chemical major so he may have something up his sleeve for his other products.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthre...hlight=degrees
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthre...hlight=degrees
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 315
From: Ohio
Congrats! I think you'll be pleased.
As far as the aircraft remover, that is what we're talking about but get the aerosol cans. Trust me, you don't wanna mess around with spreading that stuff and getting it on your skin. Plus the aerosol will stick to vertical surfaces a whole lot better.
As far as the aircraft remover, that is what we're talking about but get the aerosol cans. Trust me, you don't wanna mess around with spreading that stuff and getting it on your skin. Plus the aerosol will stick to vertical surfaces a whole lot better.
i believe you have equal opportunity of getting it on your skin during application as you do during the scraping process.
the aerosol sounds expensive.