Installing OEM UCA bushings per shop manual.

Center inner shaft in upper arm and loosely tighten shaft end bushings.

Place a 7 7/16" long pipe (65 mustang) to prevent upper arm collapse then torque the 2 end bushings.

Does anyone know what the bushing torque spec is for 65 and 67 mustangs?

 

IIRC, there isn't one. I use a pipe also, and when the caps are screwed in to set the width, I put a couple of tack welds on the caps to hold them in place. That's the trouble, these caps occasionally don't stay in place on used arms.

 

The UCA bushing threads fit so tight they can resist grease input.

I am concerned the new grease is stopping short of completely coating all inner shaft and bushing threads.

I am planning to cut a lubrication groove parallel to inner shaft on the inner shaft threads. Is this a good or bad idea?

 

Some do that, but I always figured I'd lose, like, 10% of the load-bearing surface. Just grease it when you assemble it. The first ten miles will break it in enough to grease it next time.

 

I changed UCA bushings about 15-20 years ago.
Never been able to get grease in the zirc fittings.
They still work perfect but I'm worried the 20 year old grease might dry up.
Today I tried to grease and so much pressure built up I had to remove grease gun hose before zirc would let go. I rotated zirc 1/2 turn CCW but that did not help.

I suspect the bushing o ring seal is so tight it won't allow grease to enter.

Looks like I'll have to dive in and remove UCA if I wanna grease it.

 

Maybe you need a stronger grease gun.

 

Attached grease gun.

Applied grease pressure.

Heated UCA bushing w/ heat gun till hot to touch to warm seals and old grease.

Grease started flowing out from seal.

The grease flows so slow you may think it's not flowing w/o looking.