Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Steering Sensitivity

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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #11  
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2+2GT
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Originally Posted by Jonk67
I installed a larger PS pulley on my '67 to 'dumb down' the steering input a little, seemed to help slow down the pump and lower pressure/input on the steering. I think it came from an earlier year? I'll have to look it up but it's an original Mustang '65-'70 PS pulley just a larger diameter one.
That's what Shelby did in 67 on the GT350.

Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:18 PM
  #12  
MustangFTW
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hmm sounds like i might be shimming some time soon, if you could provide a picture of the UCA bolts that would be extremely helpful.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 01:24 AM
  #13  
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Just slip the 1/16" (1/8" if feeling saucy) shim on front UCA bolt between UCA and shock tower of your 67 mustang to increase positive caster. The shims help reduce binding angles on LCA with over +3 caster. Careful w/ jack. May have to have vary load on tire when coaxing bolts out. Don't completely remove UCA nuts.
Attached Thumbnails Steering Sensitivity-0-grease-uca.jpg   Steering Sensitivity-0-shim.jpg  

Last edited by 001mustang; Jan 30, 2011 at 01:37 AM.
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #14  
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There is one other aspect that "Might" be the reason.

I realize you stated it has Factory Power steering, which if totally stock, will have the 4 turn steering box. On the 67, it could be a SMB B, SMB-K, SMB-J box.

If someone in the cars life has added the lower power steering to acquire power steering, didn't change the box, then the box will be the 5 turn SMB-A, SMB-D Box.

When the Manual steering 5 turn box is used with the Hydraulics/power in the power steering, the steering is VERY Easy to turn.

The reason is simple Gear ratios-Leverage. A 4 turn box has Less Gear, a 5 turn has more gear to help turn the front end. Putting the power assist, with the box with more Gear, you get a very easy to turn system.

This may not be the cause, and you have received some quality advice from the other Folks, Just another thing to check.

Dan @ Chockostang
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 08:44 AM
  #15  
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these? or am i looking at the wrong thing here?
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #16  
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Those circled are the bolt heads, they are pressed in from that side, don't try to loosen them from that side, loosen the nuts on the engine side. Then allow the UCA to pull away from the wheel side as the picture shows. As stated, don't take the nuts all the way off, just enough to give 1/2" slack so that you can get enough room to slip those shims in, the shims go on the threads you see between the backside of the shaft and the shock tower. Then torque the nuts back to spec.
Jon
Old Jan 30, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #17  
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What are the 'cons' to adding shims? faster wear on the outside of the tire edge?
Jon
Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #18  
MustangFTW
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anyone know how to get the steering wheel realigned? i remove the padded part then theres no bolts or screws to remove, i heard that you have to take the 3 pronged horn off too? i probably woke up the dead trying to get it off lol.
Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MustangFTW
anyone know how to get the steering wheel realigned? i remove the padded part then theres no bolts or screws to remove, i heard that you have to take the 3 pronged horn off too? i probably woke up the dead trying to get it off lol.
Disconnect batt..lol..less you wanna wake neighbors...

Push horn ring straight in and twist a tad to remove.

If steering wheel not centered to factory shaft mark you must use puller to remove steering wheel after you remove 15/16" nut.
Old Jan 31, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #20  
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001mustang
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Originally Posted by Jonk67
What are the 'cons' to adding shims? faster wear on the outside of the tire edge?
Jon
Caster shims and Camber shims were factory spec in Mustangs w/ non-adjustable strut rods and non-adjust LCAs like 65.

The tires will wear perfect w/ correct shims.



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