Another engine and tranny combo thread....
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Let's worry about headers once we get the motor assembled. I am pretty sure some cheap shorties could be had for less than $200. You may be able to find some long tubes that will work for that price as well.
What is the word on the bore size and what pistons will be used? Do you know the deck height? Have you CC'd the combustion chambers yet?
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
I swapped a 66 from a C4 to a T5. I think it's easy to do. However, we are not going to discuss the swap. We haven't an engine yet.
Let's worry about headers once we get the motor assembled. I am pretty sure some cheap shorties could be had for less than $200. You may be able to find some long tubes that will work for that price as well.
What is the word on the bore size and what pistons will be used? Do you know the deck height? Have you CC'd the combustion chambers yet?
Let's worry about headers once we get the motor assembled. I am pretty sure some cheap shorties could be had for less than $200. You may be able to find some long tubes that will work for that price as well.
What is the word on the bore size and what pistons will be used? Do you know the deck height? Have you CC'd the combustion chambers yet?
My old pistons are junk apparently and they're asking $125 to bore it .040 over. I know it won't do much performance wise, well, not at all, but it's reassuring plus I've already got the .040 over pistons with wrist pins. Thoughts there?
I'll ask the deck height when I call again, guy said he call me tuesday night, I'm not getting the best vibe anymore from this shop...
And I'm reading that article you gave me now.
Oh and I measured the ports on the DOOE heads vs the E7TE heads, they're about the same.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Does the machinist have your new pistons and rods?
Do you have rings for the new pistons?
Does the machinist have your crank?
Where are the old main and rod bearings? What numbers are on them?
Here is where you are at.
You need to bore the cylinders and as chance would have it you have new 0.040 over pistons with rods.
So bore the cylinders 40 over for the pistons. Machinist should have the pistons for this. I want to know the part number of the new pistons. I don't think you should reuse the old wrist pins. Let your machinist determine that for you.
Do you have rings for the new pistons? If not we can research the correct rings for those pistons. Again, I need the part number for the pistons.
Have you machinist assemble the rods to the pistons.
On to the crank.
351 cranks have a 3.00 inch main journals and a 2.311 rod journals stock. Often times these will get machined to a smaller diameter to keep the journal clean, smooth and round. This is when you here crankshaft turned 0.010 or 0.020 under. You have to match bearings to what the crankshaft was turned to. The part number you listed for main bearings is for a stock grind. This means you cannot use these bearings unless the crank is good and has not been turned in the past.
Your rod bearings are standard size also. Same deal here.
This is why it is important to wait to buy parts. This is why I am asking for part numbers.
Have you spoke with your machinist about the plan to use a roller cam with dogbone style lifters? You may price what it costs for him to machine the block to accept these. If it's a lot, you will always have the option of using link style lifters or switching to a flat tappet cam. Both of those choices will cost you money at this point too.
Focus on getting the shortblock built so we can move on.
On your old heads, I want to know the intake valve size at the head.
Also, do you have a big air compressor?
Do you have rings for the new pistons?
Does the machinist have your crank?
Where are the old main and rod bearings? What numbers are on them?
Here is where you are at.
You need to bore the cylinders and as chance would have it you have new 0.040 over pistons with rods.
So bore the cylinders 40 over for the pistons. Machinist should have the pistons for this. I want to know the part number of the new pistons. I don't think you should reuse the old wrist pins. Let your machinist determine that for you.
Do you have rings for the new pistons? If not we can research the correct rings for those pistons. Again, I need the part number for the pistons.
Have you machinist assemble the rods to the pistons.
On to the crank.
351 cranks have a 3.00 inch main journals and a 2.311 rod journals stock. Often times these will get machined to a smaller diameter to keep the journal clean, smooth and round. This is when you here crankshaft turned 0.010 or 0.020 under. You have to match bearings to what the crankshaft was turned to. The part number you listed for main bearings is for a stock grind. This means you cannot use these bearings unless the crank is good and has not been turned in the past.
Your rod bearings are standard size also. Same deal here.
This is why it is important to wait to buy parts. This is why I am asking for part numbers.
Have you spoke with your machinist about the plan to use a roller cam with dogbone style lifters? You may price what it costs for him to machine the block to accept these. If it's a lot, you will always have the option of using link style lifters or switching to a flat tappet cam. Both of those choices will cost you money at this point too.
Focus on getting the shortblock built so we can move on.
On your old heads, I want to know the intake valve size at the head.
Also, do you have a big air compressor?
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
Does the machinist have your new pistons and rods?
Do you have rings for the new pistons?
Does the machinist have your crank?
Where are the old main and rod bearings? What numbers are on them?
I still have my pistons, rods, rings, and crank. He told me to hang out to them until we found out if I could use the old pistons.
He has the old main and rod bearings, they're all number by cylinder, and the mains are number in order.
Here is where you are at.
You need to bore the cylinders and as chance would have it you have new 0.040 over pistons with rods.
So bore the cylinders 40 over for the pistons. Machinist should have the pistons for this. I want to know the part number of the new pistons. I don't think you should reuse the old wrist pins. Let your machinist determine that for you.
I'm not sure of the part number, I'll look for it but I do have a pic of the info on the side of the piston box. The pistons have brand new wrist pins in them.
Do you have rings for the new pistons? If not we can research the correct rings for those pistons. Again, I need the part number for the pistons.
Yep, I've got a brand new ring kit
Have you machinist assemble the rods to the pistons.
If I could even do this myself... haha
On to the crank.
351 cranks have a 3.00 inch main journals and a 2.311 rod journals stock. Often times these will get machined to a smaller diameter to keep the journal clean, smooth and round. This is when you here crankshaft turned 0.010 or 0.020 under. You have to match bearings to what the crankshaft was turned to. The part number you listed for main bearings is for a stock grind. This means you cannot use these bearings unless the crank is good and has not been turned in the past.
My crank is in my truck with me, next time I drop by the shop I'll have him take a look at it to see. I also have a spare crank so if the current one needs grinding, I'll have him check out my other one too. Worst comes to worst I'll need to grind and get new bearings.
Your rod bearings are standard size also. Same deal here.
Same here, I've got 2 sets of rods so hopefully one set will check out ok.
This is why it is important to wait to buy parts. This is why I am asking for part numbers.
I hear ya, it's just that all the parts I got I picked up as a whole from a guy getting rid of all of it at once.
Have you spoke with your machinist about the plan to use a roller cam with dogbone style lifters? You may price what it costs for him to machine the block to accept these. If it's a lot, you will always have the option of using link style lifters or switching to a flat tappet cam. Both of those choices will cost you money at this point too.
Have yet to talk to him about it. I'm debating with myself over what to do really. I'll have a word with him and see what he thinks. I'm considering going a more stock route because this is my first engine, if it isn't obvious already.
Focus on getting the shortblock built so we can move on.
On your old heads, I want to know the intake valve size at the head.
Will do
Also, do you have a big air compressor?
Unfortunately no, depending on your definition of "big". I have a 25 gallon compressor that rolls around.
Do you have rings for the new pistons?
Does the machinist have your crank?
Where are the old main and rod bearings? What numbers are on them?
I still have my pistons, rods, rings, and crank. He told me to hang out to them until we found out if I could use the old pistons.
He has the old main and rod bearings, they're all number by cylinder, and the mains are number in order.
Here is where you are at.
You need to bore the cylinders and as chance would have it you have new 0.040 over pistons with rods.
So bore the cylinders 40 over for the pistons. Machinist should have the pistons for this. I want to know the part number of the new pistons. I don't think you should reuse the old wrist pins. Let your machinist determine that for you.
I'm not sure of the part number, I'll look for it but I do have a pic of the info on the side of the piston box. The pistons have brand new wrist pins in them.
Do you have rings for the new pistons? If not we can research the correct rings for those pistons. Again, I need the part number for the pistons.
Yep, I've got a brand new ring kit
Have you machinist assemble the rods to the pistons.
If I could even do this myself... haha
On to the crank.
351 cranks have a 3.00 inch main journals and a 2.311 rod journals stock. Often times these will get machined to a smaller diameter to keep the journal clean, smooth and round. This is when you here crankshaft turned 0.010 or 0.020 under. You have to match bearings to what the crankshaft was turned to. The part number you listed for main bearings is for a stock grind. This means you cannot use these bearings unless the crank is good and has not been turned in the past.
My crank is in my truck with me, next time I drop by the shop I'll have him take a look at it to see. I also have a spare crank so if the current one needs grinding, I'll have him check out my other one too. Worst comes to worst I'll need to grind and get new bearings.
Your rod bearings are standard size also. Same deal here.
Same here, I've got 2 sets of rods so hopefully one set will check out ok.
This is why it is important to wait to buy parts. This is why I am asking for part numbers.
I hear ya, it's just that all the parts I got I picked up as a whole from a guy getting rid of all of it at once.
Have you spoke with your machinist about the plan to use a roller cam with dogbone style lifters? You may price what it costs for him to machine the block to accept these. If it's a lot, you will always have the option of using link style lifters or switching to a flat tappet cam. Both of those choices will cost you money at this point too.
Have yet to talk to him about it. I'm debating with myself over what to do really. I'll have a word with him and see what he thinks. I'm considering going a more stock route because this is my first engine, if it isn't obvious already.
Focus on getting the shortblock built so we can move on.
On your old heads, I want to know the intake valve size at the head.
Will do
Also, do you have a big air compressor?
Unfortunately no, depending on your definition of "big". I have a 25 gallon compressor that rolls around.
Sorry for the late reply. Been busy getting my cowl on lately.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
We are moving forward, but we aren't moving fast enough.
Here are some of my concerns.
I want someone to confirm that your new rods and pistons will work in your block. I am concerned that rod length or piston compression height will leave your deck height at an undesireable location. Deck height is the furthest the piston will travel up in the cylinder. Deck height is affected by stroke, rod length, piston compression height and the distance from the deck to center of crank.
The final deck height needs to be near the top of the deck, in or out, by just a few thousandths of an inch. Nobody has measured the rods. We don't even know if they will work for this application. The reason there may be a problem is because ford changed the deck heights on certain year engines. We have no way of knowing without measuring. This is why your machinist needs the new rods and piston and bearings. BTW, don't confuse bearings with main or rad caps. I am not sure if you were referring to these or if you wrote the location of the bearings down on the bearings.
The reason I am pushing for all this info is to settle my next concerns. These appear to be dished pistons. The dish has a volume. The dish volume along with the deck height, head gasket and combustion chamber volume determine the compression ratio. Many rookies don't take all this into consideration when building an engine. I don't want your compression to be too low or high. We need this info before deciding if we can even use your pistons or cylinder heads. I think it has been more than a week since I asked for piston part numbers and combustion chamber volume. I don't think this is too much to ask. I would love to help you build this on your schedule but the truth is this is the last thread I am going to help in.
We need to decide which head you can use for this build. If you have the tools and the drive, I am going to walk you through a mild port job. Your heads need it. The DOOE heads came with more than 1 size of valves. I want to know which valves you have.
Once we decide the head you are going to use, we need to check the valve spring height and then measure the tension at that height. This means disassembling the heads, labeling where everything goes (I can show you how to build a tray from plywood) and taking the springs down to the machinist to check them.
You have much more work to do to complete this correctly then you realize. It takes me several weeks to do this with my schedule. I would guess double that for you and your schedule.
I am going to be a little critical here. Your head is all over the place. I have seen your posts. You can work on many things and not complete any, or focus on 1 and move on. If your not working in the garage, you should be reading/learning about the task at hand. It makes for a smarter you, a better car and a fatter(or less skinny) wallet. I cannot build this for you. I can only offer advice on evidence observed. So far, you ain't bringing it.
So, I ask you, do you want to throw together something that may run or build the best engine you, your machinist and this forum can build together? It won't work with only 2 of the 3.
If I ask you to do something and you don't know how to do it then tell me. If you don't have a tool then tell me. We will work around it.
Here are some of my concerns.
I want someone to confirm that your new rods and pistons will work in your block. I am concerned that rod length or piston compression height will leave your deck height at an undesireable location. Deck height is the furthest the piston will travel up in the cylinder. Deck height is affected by stroke, rod length, piston compression height and the distance from the deck to center of crank.
The final deck height needs to be near the top of the deck, in or out, by just a few thousandths of an inch. Nobody has measured the rods. We don't even know if they will work for this application. The reason there may be a problem is because ford changed the deck heights on certain year engines. We have no way of knowing without measuring. This is why your machinist needs the new rods and piston and bearings. BTW, don't confuse bearings with main or rad caps. I am not sure if you were referring to these or if you wrote the location of the bearings down on the bearings.
The reason I am pushing for all this info is to settle my next concerns. These appear to be dished pistons. The dish has a volume. The dish volume along with the deck height, head gasket and combustion chamber volume determine the compression ratio. Many rookies don't take all this into consideration when building an engine. I don't want your compression to be too low or high. We need this info before deciding if we can even use your pistons or cylinder heads. I think it has been more than a week since I asked for piston part numbers and combustion chamber volume. I don't think this is too much to ask. I would love to help you build this on your schedule but the truth is this is the last thread I am going to help in.
We need to decide which head you can use for this build. If you have the tools and the drive, I am going to walk you through a mild port job. Your heads need it. The DOOE heads came with more than 1 size of valves. I want to know which valves you have.
Once we decide the head you are going to use, we need to check the valve spring height and then measure the tension at that height. This means disassembling the heads, labeling where everything goes (I can show you how to build a tray from plywood) and taking the springs down to the machinist to check them.
You have much more work to do to complete this correctly then you realize. It takes me several weeks to do this with my schedule. I would guess double that for you and your schedule.
I am going to be a little critical here. Your head is all over the place. I have seen your posts. You can work on many things and not complete any, or focus on 1 and move on. If your not working in the garage, you should be reading/learning about the task at hand. It makes for a smarter you, a better car and a fatter(or less skinny) wallet. I cannot build this for you. I can only offer advice on evidence observed. So far, you ain't bringing it.
So, I ask you, do you want to throw together something that may run or build the best engine you, your machinist and this forum can build together? It won't work with only 2 of the 3.
If I ask you to do something and you don't know how to do it then tell me. If you don't have a tool then tell me. We will work around it.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Reasons why I am being a dusty old fart:
How does an engine with low compression run? like a turd
How does an engine with too high compression run? it can detonate and destroy itself
What happens when valves springs are too weak for the cam? The valves can float meaning they are not touching the cam at all times. This is when the valves can introduce themselves to the pistons and they don't get along.
What happens when a flat tappet cam is used with high valve spring seat pressures? It destroys the flat tappet cam.
Your Dooe heads were set up for a flat tappet. More than likely the springs were of a softer nature.
Your E7 heads should be set up for a roller HO cam. These have a higher spring rating at the seat (valve closed).
There is no such thing as a stupid question. Do you have any questions?
Recap of things to do:
get the machinist your cranks (both of them), new rods and pistons with pins. Hold onto the rings.
Measure combustion chamber volumes on both heads.
Piston part numbers.
How does an engine with low compression run? like a turd
How does an engine with too high compression run? it can detonate and destroy itself
What happens when valves springs are too weak for the cam? The valves can float meaning they are not touching the cam at all times. This is when the valves can introduce themselves to the pistons and they don't get along.
What happens when a flat tappet cam is used with high valve spring seat pressures? It destroys the flat tappet cam.
Your Dooe heads were set up for a flat tappet. More than likely the springs were of a softer nature.
Your E7 heads should be set up for a roller HO cam. These have a higher spring rating at the seat (valve closed).
There is no such thing as a stupid question. Do you have any questions?
Recap of things to do:
get the machinist your cranks (both of them), new rods and pistons with pins. Hold onto the rings.
Measure combustion chamber volumes on both heads.
Piston part numbers.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
We are moving forward, but we aren't moving fast enough.
Here are some of my concerns.
I want someone to confirm that your new rods and pistons will work in your block. I am concerned that rod length or piston compression height will leave your deck height at an undesireable location. Deck height is the furthest the piston will travel up in the cylinder. Deck height is affected by stroke, rod length, piston compression height and the distance from the deck to center of crank.
I'll get 'em to the Machine Shop.
The final deck height needs to be near the top of the deck, in or out, by just a few thousandths of an inch. Nobody has measured the rods. We don't even know if they will work for this application. The reason there may be a problem is because ford changed the deck heights on certain year engines. We have no way of knowing without measuring. This is why your machinist needs the new rods and piston and bearings. BTW, don't confuse bearings with main or rad caps. I am not sure if you were referring to these or if you wrote the location of the bearings down on the bearings.
Yes I confused the bearing with the caps, sorry for that mistake. I remember my bearings did have numbers on them, I'll check them out when I get them back.
The reason I am pushing for all this info is to settle my next concerns. These appear to be dished pistons. The dish has a volume. The dish volume along with the deck height, head gasket and combustion chamber volume determine the compression ratio. Many rookies don't take all this into consideration when building an engine. I don't want your compression to be too low or high. We need this info before deciding if we can even use your pistons or cylinder heads. I think it has been more than a week since I asked for piston part numbers and combustion chamber volume. I don't think this is too much to ask. I would love to help you build this on your schedule but the truth is this is the last thread I am going to help in.
I definitely didn't consider that. And I apologize that this is trouble for you. You don't have to help but I certainly hope I can learn and help to pass it on.
We need to decide which head you can use for this build. If you have the tools and the drive, I am going to walk you through a mild port job. Your heads need it. The DOOE heads came with more than 1 size of valves. I want to know which valves you have.
Alright I'll get the measurements with a picture of the calipher. I would be more than happy to do a port job, read a little about it so far.
Once we decide the head you are going to use, we need to check the valve spring height and then measure the tension at that height. This means disassembling the heads, labeling where everything goes (I can show you how to build a tray from plywood) and taking the springs down to the machinist to check them.
Sounds good to me
You have much more work to do to complete this correctly then you realize. It takes me several weeks to do this with my schedule. I would guess double that for you and your schedule.
I am going to be a little critical here. Your head is all over the place. I have seen your posts. You can work on many things and not complete any, or focus on 1 and move on. If your not working in the garage, you should be reading/learning about the task at hand. It makes for a smarter you, a better car and a fatter(or less skinny) wallet. I cannot build this for you. I can only offer advice on evidence observed. So far, you ain't bringing it.
I hear ya, I'm just trying to keep the progress going on whatever I can.
So, I ask you, do you want to throw together something that may run or build the best engine you, your machinist and this forum can build together? It won't work with only 2 of the 3.
Well I'd certainly prefer to have the best engine possible.
If I ask you to do something and you don't know how to do it then tell me. If you don't have a tool then tell me. We will work around it.
I appreciate it greatly, when I get my stang together we'll have to cruise sometime and I'll buy ya a few cold ones.
Here are some of my concerns.
I want someone to confirm that your new rods and pistons will work in your block. I am concerned that rod length or piston compression height will leave your deck height at an undesireable location. Deck height is the furthest the piston will travel up in the cylinder. Deck height is affected by stroke, rod length, piston compression height and the distance from the deck to center of crank.
I'll get 'em to the Machine Shop.
The final deck height needs to be near the top of the deck, in or out, by just a few thousandths of an inch. Nobody has measured the rods. We don't even know if they will work for this application. The reason there may be a problem is because ford changed the deck heights on certain year engines. We have no way of knowing without measuring. This is why your machinist needs the new rods and piston and bearings. BTW, don't confuse bearings with main or rad caps. I am not sure if you were referring to these or if you wrote the location of the bearings down on the bearings.
Yes I confused the bearing with the caps, sorry for that mistake. I remember my bearings did have numbers on them, I'll check them out when I get them back.
The reason I am pushing for all this info is to settle my next concerns. These appear to be dished pistons. The dish has a volume. The dish volume along with the deck height, head gasket and combustion chamber volume determine the compression ratio. Many rookies don't take all this into consideration when building an engine. I don't want your compression to be too low or high. We need this info before deciding if we can even use your pistons or cylinder heads. I think it has been more than a week since I asked for piston part numbers and combustion chamber volume. I don't think this is too much to ask. I would love to help you build this on your schedule but the truth is this is the last thread I am going to help in.
I definitely didn't consider that. And I apologize that this is trouble for you. You don't have to help but I certainly hope I can learn and help to pass it on.
We need to decide which head you can use for this build. If you have the tools and the drive, I am going to walk you through a mild port job. Your heads need it. The DOOE heads came with more than 1 size of valves. I want to know which valves you have.
Alright I'll get the measurements with a picture of the calipher. I would be more than happy to do a port job, read a little about it so far.
Once we decide the head you are going to use, we need to check the valve spring height and then measure the tension at that height. This means disassembling the heads, labeling where everything goes (I can show you how to build a tray from plywood) and taking the springs down to the machinist to check them.
Sounds good to me
You have much more work to do to complete this correctly then you realize. It takes me several weeks to do this with my schedule. I would guess double that for you and your schedule.
I am going to be a little critical here. Your head is all over the place. I have seen your posts. You can work on many things and not complete any, or focus on 1 and move on. If your not working in the garage, you should be reading/learning about the task at hand. It makes for a smarter you, a better car and a fatter(or less skinny) wallet. I cannot build this for you. I can only offer advice on evidence observed. So far, you ain't bringing it.
I hear ya, I'm just trying to keep the progress going on whatever I can.
So, I ask you, do you want to throw together something that may run or build the best engine you, your machinist and this forum can build together? It won't work with only 2 of the 3.
Well I'd certainly prefer to have the best engine possible.
If I ask you to do something and you don't know how to do it then tell me. If you don't have a tool then tell me. We will work around it.
I appreciate it greatly, when I get my stang together we'll have to cruise sometime and I'll buy ya a few cold ones.
Reasons why I am being a dusty old fart:
Reasons you're saving my ***....
How does an engine with low compression run? like a turd
How does an engine with too high compression run? it can detonate and destroy itself
What happens when valves springs are too weak for the cam? The valves can float meaning they are not touching the cam at all times. This is when the valves can introduce themselves to the pistons and they don't get along.
What happens when a flat tappet cam is used with high valve spring seat pressures? It destroys the flat tappet cam.
I do not like turds nor do I like detonating engines.
Your Dooe heads were set up for a flat tappet. More than likely the springs were of a softer nature.
Your E7 heads should be set up for a roller HO cam. These have a higher spring rating at the seat (valve closed).
Goody, hopefully my dog-bone spyder combo will work out.
There is no such thing as a stupid question. Do you have any questions?
Can I ask questions when I think of them? I'm sure I'll have many in the future.
Recap of things to do:
get the machinist your cranks (both of them), new rods and pistons with pins. Hold onto the rings.
Measure combustion chamber volumes on both heads.
Piston part numbers.
Got it
And:
Deck height
Ask about dog bone spyder setup
Future:
Springs from heads
Reasons you're saving my ***....
How does an engine with low compression run? like a turd
How does an engine with too high compression run? it can detonate and destroy itself
What happens when valves springs are too weak for the cam? The valves can float meaning they are not touching the cam at all times. This is when the valves can introduce themselves to the pistons and they don't get along.
What happens when a flat tappet cam is used with high valve spring seat pressures? It destroys the flat tappet cam.
I do not like turds nor do I like detonating engines.
Your Dooe heads were set up for a flat tappet. More than likely the springs were of a softer nature.
Your E7 heads should be set up for a roller HO cam. These have a higher spring rating at the seat (valve closed).
Goody, hopefully my dog-bone spyder combo will work out.
There is no such thing as a stupid question. Do you have any questions?
Can I ask questions when I think of them? I'm sure I'll have many in the future.
Recap of things to do:
get the machinist your cranks (both of them), new rods and pistons with pins. Hold onto the rings.
Measure combustion chamber volumes on both heads.
Piston part numbers.
Got it
And:
Deck height
Ask about dog bone spyder setup
Future:
Springs from heads
Replies in red
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
Bad bad bad bad bad news.... 
Got a call from the Machine Shop, my block needs more than a .040 over bore. That means my original AND my new pistons are useless. That also flips my entire plan upside down. I will need to pick another engine.
I think this time I'm going to pick the engine I want to use, then look and find the right engine, THEN buy it. Ugh, live and learn huh? Well right now I'd like to die....
My thoughts:
5.0 Roller 302 out of GT Mustang OR a Lincoln (was suggested the Lincoln cause they might have less wear)
Roller 351w (Look in Explorers?)
This really sucks, and I apologize this was all drug out and now I can't even use the engine, it's up to me now to sell all the parts and hope to make my money back. I'm up to the task but it won't be easy.
For those who will ask why I can't use it, I can't afford to bore it further, and buy new pistons. Plus I realized down the line that I wanted a 351w roller, and I had the wrong block. I'd rather start with the right motor that won't get me as much trouble.
Got a call from the Machine Shop, my block needs more than a .040 over bore. That means my original AND my new pistons are useless. That also flips my entire plan upside down. I will need to pick another engine.
I think this time I'm going to pick the engine I want to use, then look and find the right engine, THEN buy it. Ugh, live and learn huh? Well right now I'd like to die....
My thoughts:
5.0 Roller 302 out of GT Mustang OR a Lincoln (was suggested the Lincoln cause they might have less wear)
Roller 351w (Look in Explorers?)
This really sucks, and I apologize this was all drug out and now I can't even use the engine, it's up to me now to sell all the parts and hope to make my money back. I'm up to the task but it won't be easy.
For those who will ask why I can't use it, I can't afford to bore it further, and buy new pistons. Plus I realized down the line that I wanted a 351w roller, and I had the wrong block. I'd rather start with the right motor that won't get me as much trouble.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
You have already given up when you don't know the full story.
Did your machinist say the bore would go to 0.060 over?
What are your piston part numbers????????????
Maybe just maybe you have forged pistons. Perhaps your builder would be interested in trading for a set of cheap hyper pistons.
If the stars were to align and this did work you would need to choose a head so that we can get a piston with the correct displacement for proper combustion ratio.
You are not done yet. If your next post isn't the info I have been asking for the last 2 weeks, I am done responding to this thread.
I am going to be brutally honest with you. You personal message asked about buying more stuff. This is what got you into trouble in the first place. You should do more research. Educate yourself or else you WILL waste more money. STOP BUYING PARTS!!!
There will always be another good deal. There is no need to rush. Should you choose to give up on this engine, you should move to something else while you learn more about engine building. Finish the car except for the engine and tranny.
Did your machinist say the bore would go to 0.060 over?
What are your piston part numbers????????????
Maybe just maybe you have forged pistons. Perhaps your builder would be interested in trading for a set of cheap hyper pistons.
If the stars were to align and this did work you would need to choose a head so that we can get a piston with the correct displacement for proper combustion ratio.
You are not done yet. If your next post isn't the info I have been asking for the last 2 weeks, I am done responding to this thread.
I am going to be brutally honest with you. You personal message asked about buying more stuff. This is what got you into trouble in the first place. You should do more research. Educate yourself or else you WILL waste more money. STOP BUYING PARTS!!!
There will always be another good deal. There is no need to rush. Should you choose to give up on this engine, you should move to something else while you learn more about engine building. Finish the car except for the engine and tranny.