Another engine and tranny combo thread....

And I'll try not to rush. I know the engine won't be going in anytime soon, so it's not I'm in a rush to begin with.
Still waiting to hear from the Machine Shop, might give them a call this afternoon just to check up on them.
Now, this thread is about transmission too, so I need a little info there as well.
So I did a little googling, and I found some info on what I need to do the swap from a C4 to a T5. I've got a few complete parts lists to help me out.
Right now I want to focus on WHERE to get my T5.
Craigslist offers a few from $300-500 each, and I can expect to rebuild some of them. I know it HAS to come out of a 5.0 or GT to be usable. Perhaps I can score one in usable condition?
Ebay has a few for $500-900, some used (obviously from wrecked cars) and some rebuilt and ready to go (those would be the $900 ones, haha). I would love a rebuilt one but it's a lot of money to throw down...
So what should I do? Risk it with a used one, rebuild a used one (would be my first trans rebuild), or buy a rebuilt trans (perhaps be more cost effective than me attempting to rebuild?)
As a general rule of thumb, I don't want to exceed $1,000 on a rebuilt trans, and not exceed $400-500 on a used trans.
Also, what first, second, third, etc. ratios am I looking for? I'm going to be running a 3.73 rear end with trac-loc.
Also on the subject of HP and Torque, I'm probably not going to exceed 350-360 HP. Am I risking it with a trans rated at 300 HP?
I really don't think I can afford to step up any further than a T5 in the transmission section of my build.
Please offer any opinions you have on any of the above subject matter. I'm always open to comments and constructive criticism.
Now, this thread is about transmission too, so I need a little info there as well.
So I did a little googling, and I found some info on what I need to do the swap from a C4 to a T5. I've got a few complete parts lists to help me out.
Right now I want to focus on WHERE to get my T5.
Craigslist offers a few from $300-500 each, and I can expect to rebuild some of them. I know it HAS to come out of a 5.0 or GT to be usable. Perhaps I can score one in usable condition?
Ebay has a few for $500-900, some used (obviously from wrecked cars) and some rebuilt and ready to go (those would be the $900 ones, haha). I would love a rebuilt one but it's a lot of money to throw down...
So what should I do? Risk it with a used one, rebuild a used one (would be my first trans rebuild), or buy a rebuilt trans (perhaps be more cost effective than me attempting to rebuild?)
As a general rule of thumb, I don't want to exceed $1,000 on a rebuilt trans, and not exceed $400-500 on a used trans.
Also, what first, second, third, etc. ratios am I looking for? I'm going to be running a 3.73 rear end with trac-loc.
Also on the subject of HP and Torque, I'm probably not going to exceed 350-360 HP. Am I risking it with a trans rated at 300 HP?
I really don't think I can afford to step up any further than a T5 in the transmission section of my build.
Please offer any opinions you have on any of the above subject matter. I'm always open to comments and constructive criticism.
Also, I haven't gotten around to checking the heads like you've suggested, I'm wildly confused by the process you're mentioning.
I found a measuring calipher and will get that picture comparing the heads soon.
However, with the E7TE heads I will need headers. I'm fine with that but it will cut into the budget. On the flip side it'll be rather easy to throw those brand new E7TEs on as opposed to cleaning up the old DOOE heads.
It all depends on the measurements I guess....

I found a measuring calipher and will get that picture comparing the heads soon.
However, with the E7TE heads I will need headers. I'm fine with that but it will cut into the budget. On the flip side it'll be rather easy to throw those brand new E7TEs on as opposed to cleaning up the old DOOE heads.
It all depends on the measurements I guess....
http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...ion/index.html
Why would you need headers to run the E7 heads?
Read this article:
http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...ion/index.html
Why would you need headers to run the E7 heads?
http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...ion/index.html
Why would you need headers to run the E7 heads?
And a friend told me that I will need to run shorty headers to fit the E7 heads on the 351w in the '68 engine bay to clear. If this is not true, please inform me as I'm not exactly aware of how it will fit with stock manifolds.
My friend work's on '65 and '66 mustangs the most, so maybe he uses headers in them more often.
The heads won't dictate which header you will need in this case. You should be more concerned with finding a 351 in a 68 header that will fit a T5 manual. You will need to decide how you will actuate the clutch, either with the old Z bar linkage, clutch cable or a hydraulic clutch.
Mustang steve sells a cable kit. The Z bar will need an adapter bolted to the block in order to run it. I don't recommend a hydro clutch. They are spendy.
Mustang steve sells a cable kit. The Z bar will need an adapter bolted to the block in order to run it. I don't recommend a hydro clutch. They are spendy.
The heads won't dictate which header you will need in this case. You should be more concerned with finding a 351 in a 68 header that will fit a T5 manual. You will need to decide how you will actuate the clutch, either with the old Z bar linkage, clutch cable or a hydraulic clutch.
Mustang steve sells a cable kit. The Z bar will need an adapter bolted to the block in order to run it. I don't recommend a hydro clutch. They are spendy.
Mustang steve sells a cable kit. The Z bar will need an adapter bolted to the block in order to run it. I don't recommend a hydro clutch. They are spendy.
I was just told that a standard manifold/exhaust combo wouldn't clear the shock towers for a 351w in a '68.
And I found a hydraulic clutch locally on craigslist for $125, should I jump on it?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/2237633068.html
Otherwise I'll go with the cable kit, a Z bar sounds like more trouble than I'd want to deal with...
Alright what should I be looking for? Like I've said a thousand times, I don't know much about these instances the first time around, and I apologize for this lack of knowledge.
I was just told that a standard manifold/exhaust combo wouldn't clear the shock towers for a 351w in a '68.
And I found a hydraulic clutch locally on craigslist for $125, should I jump on it?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/2237633068.html
Otherwise I'll go with the cable kit, a Z bar sounds like more trouble than I'd want to deal with...
I was just told that a standard manifold/exhaust combo wouldn't clear the shock towers for a 351w in a '68.
And I found a hydraulic clutch locally on craigslist for $125, should I jump on it?
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/2237633068.html
Otherwise I'll go with the cable kit, a Z bar sounds like more trouble than I'd want to deal with...
For now, I would concentrate on slaying 1 dragon at a time, with an eye on the next hurdle. Finish the motor before you get wrapped up in a transmission.
The 351W was factory installed in the 69-70 mustang/cougars and the 67-70 cars all share the same engine bay...So if you can find a set of manifolds for one of those cars it will work in yours...It may be easier to just buy some headers though..
And how much are we talking about being easier? That's what I initially thought, that headers, despite their cost, might make my life easier. That was just a speculation though, and partially a way to make me feel better about spending the money on headers, haha.

Perhaps it can help with my exhaust clearing the T5 manual trans as well?
Thanks so much guys!
I would not buy a hydraulic clutch. I don't like them but that is me. The Z bar is what they came with stock. I don't recall what transmission you had before. If your car was a manual, you already own the Z bar linkage. You will note the ball on the old block where it attached. Your new block won't have that. I think the cable is the easiest way to go. However, you will need to be selective on the exhuast you run. Most headers are not built to accomodate the location of the T5 with a cable. In your initial posts, it did not sound like you had the money for headers. The stock manifolds are by far the smallest and leave a lot of room for everything else. I don't see why you can't run stock exhaust manifolds on E7 heads on a 351 in a 68. The 68 has more room then a 65/6. I would check your source.
For now, I would concentrate on slaying 1 dragon at a time, with an eye on the next hurdle. Finish the motor before you get wrapped up in a transmission.
For now, I would concentrate on slaying 1 dragon at a time, with an eye on the next hurdle. Finish the motor before you get wrapped up in a transmission.


