Another engine and tranny combo thread....
Driving up to NC on friday to pick up the 351w. My old man raised hell when he heard I was switching engines again.
I'm back to a Ford engine though, I hope everybody is happy, haha
Anyways, now I need to decide on a tranny and rear end. What size rear end and gear ratio should I go with. I'd really like to get a more modern rear end that possibly has disc brakes. I've heard of explorer rear ends, but also that the 4x4 rear ends (the stronger ones) are offset and require modification. And then people mention the fox body stangs that I might can rip an 8.8 out of, but I can't seem to find one!
What do you guys recommend? I'm all ears.
I'm back to a Ford engine though, I hope everybody is happy, hahaAnyways, now I need to decide on a tranny and rear end. What size rear end and gear ratio should I go with. I'd really like to get a more modern rear end that possibly has disc brakes. I've heard of explorer rear ends, but also that the 4x4 rear ends (the stronger ones) are offset and require modification. And then people mention the fox body stangs that I might can rip an 8.8 out of, but I can't seem to find one!
What do you guys recommend? I'm all ears.
My 351w is satisfying.
8" was cheap and holding up fine.
don't forget to price the pulleys...that was a sticker shock
performance build will likely hurt power under 3500 rpm; where some do most of their driving. for example headers, carb, and intake manifold will hurt you at mid range rpm power. i suppose you already read up on HP and have an understanding how it is derived from torque.
350 parts are cheaper...mmmm....
67 390 radiator is great.
...o...did you want me to tell you something you didn't know....
8" was cheap and holding up fine.
don't forget to price the pulleys...that was a sticker shock
performance build will likely hurt power under 3500 rpm; where some do most of their driving. for example headers, carb, and intake manifold will hurt you at mid range rpm power. i suppose you already read up on HP and have an understanding how it is derived from torque.
350 parts are cheaper...mmmm....
67 390 radiator is great.
...o...did you want me to tell you something you didn't know....
You wanted a chevy originally, here is one a friend is selling. He was going to put it into his 69 Camaro but lost interest, 489 cu in. Would make for a very interesting mustang and probably drive you dad over the edge
And I'll probably get a T5 too.
And I'm gonna find you an engine, cause you need one! haha!
My 351w is satisfying.
8" was cheap and holding up fine.
don't forget to price the pulleys...that was a sticker shock
performance build will likely hurt power under 3500 rpm; where some do most of their driving. for example headers, carb, and intake manifold will hurt you at mid range rpm power. i suppose you already read up on HP and have an understanding how it is derived from torque.
350 parts are cheaper...mmmm....
67 390 radiator is great.
...o...did you want me to tell you something you didn't know....
8" was cheap and holding up fine.
don't forget to price the pulleys...that was a sticker shock
performance build will likely hurt power under 3500 rpm; where some do most of their driving. for example headers, carb, and intake manifold will hurt you at mid range rpm power. i suppose you already read up on HP and have an understanding how it is derived from torque.
350 parts are cheaper...mmmm....
67 390 radiator is great.
...o...did you want me to tell you something you didn't know....

When I get it I'm going to break it down for a rebuild, and I need to plan my mods for it though. Damn my lack of knowledge! Haha, is your 351 stock?
And what kind of radiator should I get? Aluminum? Brass?

That's a sick engine though, so damn big!!!
Last edited by hightower2011; Feb 9, 2011 at 08:16 PM.
My 9" traction-loc came out of a Monarch which had disks. Keep your eyes open, I'm sure you'll find something you want. Patience man
Patience I'm starting to learn how to handle, after my engine buying spree I realized I needed to settle down and look for a deal. After a week or so I brought up this thread and conveniently found that 351w at the same time. I know the 351 will need a lot of work, but I plan on building it anyways, sooooooo..

My real problem is I don't exactly know what to look for. I've heard of late model Crown Victoria axles working, explorers (modification?), a maverick, etc.
Oh the glories of being a newbie to things.
Hmmm, I'm glad you said all that, cause it prompted me to do more research. I think torque will be more fun but like you mentioned, at mid RPMs I won't be driving as nicely as I could. I think I want more of a "mild" performance build, for a little fun and a little cruising, like a perfect balance. I plan for this to be my DD, so I want a smooth ride too.
When I get it I'm going to break it down for a rebuild, and I need to plan my mods for it though. Damn my lack of knowledge! Haha, is your 351 stock?
And what kind of radiator should I get? Aluminum? Brass?
Frankly I'm not brave enough to spin it over 5000 even though it was dynoed at 6500rpm.
I bought a new radiator from mustang parts supplier; reproduction of 1967 mustang 390 engine radiator. It fits perfect. Found molded hoses that fit; not a fan of flex hose. it cools terrific. just a standard brass radiator. I did not buy aluminum due to durability concerns. If you do go aluminum i would use a sacrificial anode.
A stock engine will usually out perform a modified engine to about 3000-4000 rpms. If not careful a stock engine will out perform a modded engine to 4500 or maybe higher. High performance builds are expensive because you need to turn some serious rpm's to get pay dirt.
I replaced the I6 200 w/ jasper class II 351W 365HP version. The jasper class II 351W 305HP version may well be more streetable.
Frankly I'm not brave enough to spin it over 5000 even though it was dynoed at 6500rpm.
I bought a new radiator from mustang parts supplier; reproduction of 1967 mustang 390 engine radiator. It fits perfect. Found molded hoses that fit; not a fan of flex hose. it cools terrific. just a standard brass radiator. I did not buy aluminum due to durability concerns. If you do go aluminum i would use a sacrificial anode.
A stock engine will usually out perform a modified engine to about 3000-4000 rpms. If not careful a stock engine will out perform a modded engine to 4500 or maybe higher. High performance builds are expensive because you need to turn some serious rpm's to get pay dirt.
Frankly I'm not brave enough to spin it over 5000 even though it was dynoed at 6500rpm.
I bought a new radiator from mustang parts supplier; reproduction of 1967 mustang 390 engine radiator. It fits perfect. Found molded hoses that fit; not a fan of flex hose. it cools terrific. just a standard brass radiator. I did not buy aluminum due to durability concerns. If you do go aluminum i would use a sacrificial anode.
A stock engine will usually out perform a modified engine to about 3000-4000 rpms. If not careful a stock engine will out perform a modded engine to 4500 or maybe higher. High performance builds are expensive because you need to turn some serious rpm's to get pay dirt.
I can't really afford the costs for a performance build, but I don't want a stock engine.
Honestly I'm not sure where to start on modding the engine. I know some people may not want to admit it, but we're all new to this once, so why try and be skiddish about it? Months ago I didn't know a damn thing about these cars, now I've gained a lot of knowledge! All a learning experience for me, nothin wrong with that!

From what it sounds like, there's not much point in me putting A LOT of money into this engine. At that point I feel like I'd be caught in the range you mentioned of a high performance (for me) build that, in my case at least, wouldn't give me my moneys worth.
I think I just want to do a few things to the engine, keep it cheap but more than just stock, and add a little performance. Maybe in the future I'll go further, time will tell.
Thoughts?


