Another engine and tranny combo thread....
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
When you change the rod bolts you "should" have the rods resized. A lot of guys do it with no problems but you'll have to see the cost then determine the risk you want to take. Assemble the motor yourself, I would, although assembly usually doesn't cost too much. Just gap the rings and make sure the bearings are the correct size. It's a good weekend project.
I would have the shop clean, magnaflux, hone the cylinder walls (lightly so you don't have to buy new pistons) and press in new rod bolts/resize. Then assemble yourself. Setting ring gaps is easy as is assembly.
Once you're sure you can use my roller setup I'll send the stuff down. Someone else on the board got my HO cam already. If he doesn't use it hopefully he'll donate it to your cause.
You're probably looking at $600 - $800 for a set of used aluminum heads. Are you sure you're getting a rebuild for $50 on the heads, seems a little on the low side.
Also have these springs that came installed on my trickflow heads, not sure if they will work with your cam selection, I needed 145#-150# on the seat. Will probably be a month before I take them off, but if they'll work for you I'll send them down too.
Valve Spring Retainers: 10° x 1.500" o.d.
chromemoly steel
Valve Stem Locks: 10° machined steel
Valve Springs: 1.460" o.d. double spring
with damper
135 lbs. @ 1.800"
installed height
376 lbs. @ 1.180" open
420 lbs. per inch rate
600" maximum valve lift
I would have the shop clean, magnaflux, hone the cylinder walls (lightly so you don't have to buy new pistons) and press in new rod bolts/resize. Then assemble yourself. Setting ring gaps is easy as is assembly.
Once you're sure you can use my roller setup I'll send the stuff down. Someone else on the board got my HO cam already. If he doesn't use it hopefully he'll donate it to your cause.
You're probably looking at $600 - $800 for a set of used aluminum heads. Are you sure you're getting a rebuild for $50 on the heads, seems a little on the low side.
Also have these springs that came installed on my trickflow heads, not sure if they will work with your cam selection, I needed 145#-150# on the seat. Will probably be a month before I take them off, but if they'll work for you I'll send them down too.
Valve Spring Retainers: 10° x 1.500" o.d.
chromemoly steel
Valve Stem Locks: 10° machined steel
Valve Springs: 1.460" o.d. double spring
with damper
135 lbs. @ 1.800"
installed height
376 lbs. @ 1.180" open
420 lbs. per inch rate
600" maximum valve lift
Would any of these ARP bolts do the trick:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU
So could I just get away with a re-ring on the pistons it has, assuming they're still good?
You're probably right too, $50 is probably what I want it to cost.
As for the spring, would they work with a stock 302HO cam like you suggested? Because it sounds like with those lifters and the HO cam, plus gt40p heads, they'd probably make a nice combo right? And probably very cost effective.
I appreciate the help! This sounds like it's coming together at last!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 889
From: tn
i'm not sure about exhaust pipe size dynamics; i do like the sound of 2.5" pipes. bigger the better on pipes if headers r well designed. if headers not well designed then it gets complicated.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,643
From: Madison, Georgia
3" exhaust is too much. I'm going with 2.5" exhaust as stated and probably 2.5" mufflers by Magnaflow. Still have yet to decide which type Magnaflow to go with...
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 889
From: tn
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 459
From: az
Before you go any further:
No need to remove the allen headed plugs, so stop messing with them. I wouldn't disassemble anything else until you have planned things out a little better.
Rmodel gave the best advice I read based upon the first post. You stated a $500 budget for a complete engine. There is no way to get that if you are going to rebuild an engine.
I'd like to know where you can get Gt40 heads for $50 a pair. I would also like to know where they can be rebuilt for $50.
Take this as my opinion based upon the original post:
-buy a known used HO motor from an 87-93 fox body mustang or pre 97 explorer
-research what it takes to put this motor in a vintage mustang
-note the front dress differences and the crank balance differences
If it's too late to buy another motor then I would:
-pull the intake manifold
-find out what the lifter/cam problem is on the motor you have
-replace the cam and lifters with the exact same so they match the springs installed
-run the appropriate pan and front dress
-buy an aluminum aftermarket intake
-cross your fingers for luck on the performance
There are several other little things that haven't been addressed or maybe I missed them in the thread. Current trans, power steering, power brakes, rear gear ratio come to mind.
You don't need a 9" rear end so don't spend any more time or money on that.
A T5 is an excellent modification to an old mustang. To get the most out of it a rear gear swap is required, otherwise 5th gear is useless. Do some research before buying parts. You cannot use a chevy T5.
Performance cars turn rpms. Nobody races with a 3000 rpm max. A properly matched engine won't lose 'torque down low'.
I am not expert. I have done more than my fair share of research in the last year or so. I recently adapted 2 302 HO engines in a 66. I tried a couple of different carbs, intakes and rear gear ratios. Then, I pulled them and built 2 mild engines with aftermarket heads.
A used 302 HO with an Air gap and a 650 DP in front of a T5 and 3.89's will cause you to poop yourself. Chances are the car will end up in a ditch if you don't upgrade the brakes and suspension to deal with the new found accelaration. The same 302 HO with a stock cast iron intake and 3.25 gears can't even come close.
If this comes across as harsh, I apologize. I just don't want to see you go through the effort and get beat by a scion box car or whatever those things are called.
No need to remove the allen headed plugs, so stop messing with them. I wouldn't disassemble anything else until you have planned things out a little better.
Rmodel gave the best advice I read based upon the first post. You stated a $500 budget for a complete engine. There is no way to get that if you are going to rebuild an engine.
I'd like to know where you can get Gt40 heads for $50 a pair. I would also like to know where they can be rebuilt for $50.
Take this as my opinion based upon the original post:
-buy a known used HO motor from an 87-93 fox body mustang or pre 97 explorer
-research what it takes to put this motor in a vintage mustang
-note the front dress differences and the crank balance differences
If it's too late to buy another motor then I would:
-pull the intake manifold
-find out what the lifter/cam problem is on the motor you have
-replace the cam and lifters with the exact same so they match the springs installed
-run the appropriate pan and front dress
-buy an aluminum aftermarket intake
-cross your fingers for luck on the performance
There are several other little things that haven't been addressed or maybe I missed them in the thread. Current trans, power steering, power brakes, rear gear ratio come to mind.
You don't need a 9" rear end so don't spend any more time or money on that.
A T5 is an excellent modification to an old mustang. To get the most out of it a rear gear swap is required, otherwise 5th gear is useless. Do some research before buying parts. You cannot use a chevy T5.
Performance cars turn rpms. Nobody races with a 3000 rpm max. A properly matched engine won't lose 'torque down low'.
I am not expert. I have done more than my fair share of research in the last year or so. I recently adapted 2 302 HO engines in a 66. I tried a couple of different carbs, intakes and rear gear ratios. Then, I pulled them and built 2 mild engines with aftermarket heads.
A used 302 HO with an Air gap and a 650 DP in front of a T5 and 3.89's will cause you to poop yourself. Chances are the car will end up in a ditch if you don't upgrade the brakes and suspension to deal with the new found accelaration. The same 302 HO with a stock cast iron intake and 3.25 gears can't even come close.
If this comes across as harsh, I apologize. I just don't want to see you go through the effort and get beat by a scion box car or whatever those things are called.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
As for power, not really shooting for a mark. Just assembling a bunch of parts and waiting for the dyno to tell me how we did.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 889
From: tn
mostly agree.
on tight budget, 351W (5000rpm not 3000rpm) sound good to me; different strokes,,,diff folks...
imagine how much it would cost to build a 5.0 to match 351W torque at 3000rpm or ever 5000rpm.
true...performance cars turn rpms,,,but rpms cost money.
high ratio rears cost a lot in fuel w/o od...stating the obvious.
on tight budget, 351W (5000rpm not 3000rpm) sound good to me; different strokes,,,diff folks...
imagine how much it would cost to build a 5.0 to match 351W torque at 3000rpm or ever 5000rpm.
true...performance cars turn rpms,,,but rpms cost money.
high ratio rears cost a lot in fuel w/o od...stating the obvious.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,027
From: NJ
I'm going with the 2.5 Magnaflows with an H pipe too. Not doing this one myself so I'm searching for a local shop.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 889
From: tn
Nope, 6000 is the very top. Lobe lift is i/e 343/352, duration 219/231 on 111 separation. Not wild, just "hopefully" a little more punch than the stock HO cam.
As for power, not really shooting for a mark. Just assembling a bunch of parts and waiting for the dyno to tell me how we did.
As for power, not really shooting for a mark. Just assembling a bunch of parts and waiting for the dyno to tell me how we did.
your heads flow much better at that high lift?
yeah...that dyno thing will keep one honest.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 889
From: tn