Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Another engine and tranny combo thread....

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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by OCHOHILL
Before you go any further:

No need to remove the allen headed plugs, so stop messing with them. I wouldn't disassemble anything else until you have planned things out a little better.

Rmodel gave the best advice I read based upon the first post. You stated a $500 budget for a complete engine. There is no way to get that if you are going to rebuild an engine.

I'd like to know where you can get Gt40 heads for $50 a pair. I would also like to know where they can be rebuilt for $50.

Take this as my opinion based upon the original post:

-buy a known used HO motor from an 87-93 fox body mustang or pre 97 explorer
-research what it takes to put this motor in a vintage mustang
-note the front dress differences and the crank balance differences

If it's too late to buy another motor then I would:

-pull the intake manifold
-find out what the lifter/cam problem is on the motor you have
-replace the cam and lifters with the exact same so they match the springs installed
-run the appropriate pan and front dress
-buy an aluminum aftermarket intake
-cross your fingers for luck on the performance

There are several other little things that haven't been addressed or maybe I missed them in the thread. Current trans, power steering, power brakes, rear gear ratio come to mind.

You don't need a 9" rear end so don't spend any more time or money on that.

A T5 is an excellent modification to an old mustang. To get the most out of it a rear gear swap is required, otherwise 5th gear is useless. Do some research before buying parts. You cannot use a chevy T5.

Performance cars turn rpms. Nobody races with a 3000 rpm max. A properly matched engine won't lose 'torque down low'.

I am not expert. I have done more than my fair share of research in the last year or so. I recently adapted 2 302 HO engines in a 66. I tried a couple of different carbs, intakes and rear gear ratios. Then, I pulled them and built 2 mild engines with aftermarket heads.

A used 302 HO with an Air gap and a 650 DP in front of a T5 and 3.89's will cause you to poop yourself. Chances are the car will end up in a ditch if you don't upgrade the brakes and suspension to deal with the new found accelaration. The same 302 HO with a stock cast iron intake and 3.25 gears can't even come close.

If this comes across as harsh, I apologize. I just don't want to see you go through the effort and get beat by a scion box car or whatever those things are called.
My budget was around $500-750 but now I've realized I might run a bit over, and I'm fine with that. Just not much over $750 tops.

As rmodel said, a 5.0 out of an explorer is about $200 from pull-a-part. So the heads would be worth about $50.

I want to run a T5, wondering how much it will cost me to do the whole thing though.
I've already picked up an 8.8" rear end with disc brakes. 3.73 gear ratio. Needs modifying (cut) to be installed. Granada disc brake swap up front.
Rebuilding the power steering it came with.

No advice given is taken harshly, not by me. I appreciate your advice and it has definitely added to my knowledge and helped.

And I hear ya, I'll kill myself if a box on wheels beat me.


Originally Posted by 001mustang
mostly agree.

on tight budget, 351W (5000rpm not 3000rpm) sound good to me; different strokes,,,diff folks...

imagine how much it would cost to build a 5.0 to match 351W torque at 3000rpm or ever 5000rpm.

true...performance cars turn rpms,,,but rpms cost money.

high ratio rears cost a lot in fuel w/o od...stating the obvious.
Same here, I agree. That's why I went with a 351w rather than a 302. I just looked and did my research a little and figured that I would rather have a relatively mild 351w with options in the future rather than sinking all my chips into a 302. Don't get me wrong, a 302 can pull it's own, but like I said, I had one and passed on it...

Originally Posted by mr_velocity
I'm going with the 2.5 Magnaflows with an H pipe too. Not doing this one myself so I'm searching for a local shop.
Yeah I don't know that I'll be able to do my own exhaust with my current welding skills. I'd hate to mess it up after all that work.

Originally Posted by 001mustang
you can do basic tests w/ basic tools.
as you know...your plans don't match your budget.
maybe we should join lottery club.
I hear ya, haha.

And I'm not trying for some 400+HP beast, I just want to put what I can in there at a good price. And if that gets me close or over 400, that'll be great! Mr. Velocity is helping a lot by suggesting/offering cheaper parts that might just give me a performance boost while saving money simultaneously.

That's the beauty of it. Sure I might can save myself some trouble by buying an already rebuilt or "better" engine, but by going through this process I'm learning A LOT, and hopefully getting a "bang for your buck" engine. I've learned a lot in just a few days since starting the tear down.
And that's why I'm glad I've brought my questions here. Because you guys are willing to help. And now that I'm gaining the knowledge and experience, I'll be able to pass it on in the future.

For example, I had trouble understand how the dog bone spider lifters worked, I did a lot of searching and finally found the information I was looking for. Now if somebody else comes along wondering the same, I can tell them they need two holes machined/drilled and maybe a few notches for the lifters to clear the lifter valley walls, and bam, they're golden.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by hightower2011

And I hear ya, I'll kill myself if a box on wheels beat me.

maybe you better install an emergency nitrous button just in case...

i mean ...its justifiable ...your life depends on it
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 001mustang
6000 is respectable.
your heads flow much better at that high lift?
yeah...that dyno thing will keep one honest.
Will they flow? Who knows, I'm a dummy. The heads are Trickflow track heats 170 intake cc. Instead of trying to figure everything out I just gave all the specs to Ed Curtis at FTI (from carb to rear end and intended use) he did the work. $375 later I have a billet steel core cam on the way.

I know were my limitations are. Ed has a great reputation so I'm giving him a shot.

Hightower, just don't blow the budget like I did I'm thinking about dumping my spare 351, I figure at the rate I'm going I'll never build it. If you need any other parts let me know, I still have a a lot of stuff in the shed. Just holler if there is something you need.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:07 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by 001mustang
maybe you better install an emergency nitrous button just in case...

i mean ...its justifiable ...your life depends on it
Hahaha very true, perhaps I over-spoke on the subject.

Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Hightower, just don't blow the budget like I did I'm thinking about dumping my spare 351, I figure at the rate I'm going I'll never build it. If you need any other parts let me know, I still have a a lot of stuff in the shed. Just holler if there is something you need.
Haha I'm sure I will blow it, hopefully not by too much though.
And I wish you wouldn't! But I know you've got enough engines as is so I can't blame you.

Update for today.
Here it was sunday:


Today:


Got all the accessories off! Boxed and bagged everything, although i won't be using just about any of those parts:


How to cheat:


Seriously though, I expected the exhaust manifolds to be impossible but they seemed almost loose. It was the spark plugs that were a beyatch! After doing the 5-8 number cylinders, i decided to pull out the impact wrench and it was easy as cheese. (is cheese easy?? probably not... but the point is that it was easier with the impact wrench! )

In the next few days I'm pulling the heads, intake, and hopefully going further.

Also searching for the right rebuild kit.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:41 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by mr_velocity
Will they flow? Who knows, I'm a dummy. The heads are Trickflow track heats 170 intake cc. Instead of trying to figure everything out I just gave all the specs to Ed Curtis at FTI (from carb to rear end and intended use) he did the work. $375 later I have a billet steel core cam on the way.

I know were my limitations are. Ed has a great reputation so I'm giving him a shot.
ok...cam should be great w/ a pro design.
trick flow likely has flow data at various valve lifts if you ever get curious.
be careful w/ distributor gear selection and mesh w/ billet cam...as u probably know.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #66  
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It took you all day to do that?? What kind of music are you listening to during disassembly? You should of had that down to the bare block in a couple of hours!

Pull your head out man!!!

Try putting in some Led Zeppelin and if you find yourself still moving at a snails pace then bump up to some ACDC or Metallica.

LOL,
Dan
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by eZ
It took you all day to do that?? What kind of music are you listening to during disassembly? You should of had that down to the bare block in a couple of hours!

Pull your head out man!!!

Try putting in some Led Zeppelin and if you find yourself still moving at a snails pace then bump up to some ACDC or Metallica.

LOL,
Dan

Haha that was about 3-4 hours of work total, not all day. And keep in mind I don't exactly know what I'm doing, I'm following a guide.

I'll try some ACDC.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #68  
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too funny

i don't wanna light fire too much till mr tower knows he is pointed the right direction...

then AC/DC all the way....
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by hightower2011
Haha that was about 3-4 hours of work total, not all day. And keep in mind I don't exactly know what I'm doing, I'm following a guide.

I'll try some ACDC.
better safe than sorry....
haste makes waste.....
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 02:01 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 001mustang
too funny

i don't wanna light fire too much till mr tower knows he is pointed the right direction...

then AC/DC all the way....
Originally Posted by 001mustang
better safe than sorry....
haste makes waste.....
Haha very true, that's why I'm taking my time. My buddy complained when I said it'd be a few weeks before I had the engine complete and I explained to him to that I don't want to mess this up by rushing it.
Do it right or do it twice.



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